waterpump: new vs. rebuilt?

[livewirevoodoo]

with 85k on the car the last needed maintenance I'm lacking is replacement of the waterpump. using pelican as a gauge of prices, the difference between new ($300) vs. a rebuilt pump $136)... would the hundred and change i save be worth it, or should I steer clear of a rebuild?

Looking to benefit from others experience.

Additionally... If i were to do it at my timing belt retentioning (in another 600 miles) would I save any on labor charges, or are the two procedures completely unrelated?

Only other servicing I can think of at this point would be to do my motor mounts.. Looking to gang the work up as efficiently as possible to not pay over n over for the same labor..

[AFJuvat]

Ok, time to dispel a few myths.

In the 80's, when these cars were new, the waterpumps were less than reliable, and usually lasted about 30K miles.

Those waterpumps are long gone. The waterpump has been revised 2 or 3 times since the inception of the 944.

There is no need to replace a waterpump "just because" anymore.

Unless it is obviously leaking or making noise, your waterpump is fine.

Wait until the belt change. if there is no sign of leakage, wiggle the waterpump pulley - if it has noticable play up\down left\right your bearing is getting weak and the pump will require replacement soon - that would be a good time to replace it.

If it is nice and tight, leave it alone. At this point, you run a bigger risk of breaking the bolts that hold the waterpump.

Waterpump replacement bills out at 8 hours of labor. You must remove the timing belt to get at the waterpump.

Wait until it is time to do your belts. If the pump needs to be replaced, get a good rebuilt unit and save yourself some money.

AFJuvat

[Lawrence Coppari]

I've used a rebuilt pump for about 4 years. Works fine. Mine was not leaking but evidently was not putting out the water flow that the new one does. The final straw with the old one was the climbing of the temperature gauge when going up a long hill in 5th gear in northern Georgia. I'd have to turn on the heater/blower to stop the needle from climbing. On the track, the cooling was adequate. I think the clearance between the impeller and housing had opened due to corrosion reducing pumping capacity at low rpm.

[F18Rep]

"AFJuvat"

Everything he said is exactly right (as usual). ...and be wary of those small waterpump studs...Bruce

[ae1969]

Originally posted by F18Rep
"AFJuvat"

Everything he said is exactly right (as usual). ...and be wary of those small waterpump studs...Bruce

I wake up in cold sweats thinking about those studs............

Why they used such small stud............. is beyond me.... prone to corrosion etc.

[livewirevoodoo]

Originally posted by AFJuvat
There is no need to replace a waterpump "just because" anymore.

Unless it is obviously leaking or making noise, your waterpump is fine.

Thanks for the response. More than answers my question and puts my mind (and wallet) at ease for the time bieng.

[Lawrence Coppari]

It is prudent to put a sealant on the bolt/stud threads to keep anitfreeze out of them. Antifreeze in them is more of a problem than the corrosion caused by different metals in contact. When you change anitfreeze, you do not change what has seeped into the threads.