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Registered
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 204
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Brake Problem
I just installed "Big Reds" with new rotors, stainless lines, and a larger Master cylinder from an 87 Turbo. My question is: I have hooked everything up so that there are no leaks (I checked and rechecked). I filled the brake reservoir with fluid and started the bleeding process. I began with the Master Cylinder and then worked from the back wheels to the front. Each time I had someone pumping the brakes while I bled the lines. Always making sure that the reservoir was full. So I have bled them for hours now. The peddle feels better, but basically you need to push it almost to the floor before anything happens, and even then its a little spongy. So I have bled the brakes so many times I can't even count, yet it still feels and acts like garbage. Am I missing something or is there still air in the lines? BTW the bleed screws on the rear (original) calipers is clogged up so the screws need to be loosened in order to bled
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1985.5 944 NA -Racing Headers, Cat-less Borla exhaust, New racing Cam, Turbo valve springs, multi angle valve job, big bore throttle body, Eprom, blue printed injectors, throttle response cam, -Just installed: M030 Suspension with turbo A-arms and hubs. Big Reds with rotors and stainless lines. Turbo sway bars front and rear. Boxter wheels, turbo mater cylinder, and MOMO steering wheel and shift knob. Just Finished: Clutch, flywheel and transmission...and TONS more! |
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01-26-2005, 12:33 PM
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Join Date: May 2004
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 315
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Can you pump the pedal and get a hard pedal? If you can, hold that hard pedal for a few seconds, pressing down really hard with your foot. If you can't get a hard pedal, or the pedal sinks even after you pump it up, I believe that indicates a bad seal in the master cylinder. I found this out while working on my own brakes, so that's about the extent of my troubleshooting knowledge. Others please chime in.
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1983 944 with S2 motor, trans, suspension and exterior -- crunched parts car 1987 944 -- soon to be 1987 944S2 |
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01-26-2005, 12:37 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: New Hamsphire (United States)
Posts: 427
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Found this article last night... maybe it will help you out.
http://www.lindseyracing.com/brakes2.htm |
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01-26-2005, 01:04 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: San Jose, CA
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Wow that article should have been brought to my attention from the people I bought the set from! I really appreciate the link :-P It appears that the calipers are on the wrong side and thus might still have air in them. Also I got an (almost new) master cylinder off of a 1987 turbo and it has a cylindrical (what looks to be a valve) screwed into the master cylinder rear line output and then the steel rear line is screwed into this "valve." I was wondering if this is indeed a bias valve (in which case how do u adjust it) and if it is there then the steel line looks like it might interfere with the hood closing. Does the 951 have a different rear line and a bias valve that screws into the master cylinder? Or is this part not supposed to be there?
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1985.5 944 NA -Racing Headers, Cat-less Borla exhaust, New racing Cam, Turbo valve springs, multi angle valve job, big bore throttle body, Eprom, blue printed injectors, throttle response cam, -Just installed: M030 Suspension with turbo A-arms and hubs. Big Reds with rotors and stainless lines. Turbo sway bars front and rear. Boxter wheels, turbo mater cylinder, and MOMO steering wheel and shift knob. Just Finished: Clutch, flywheel and transmission...and TONS more! |
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01-26-2005, 06:54 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Calgary, AB
Posts: 1,883
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That is indeed a bias valve. On my 951, the line _almost_ hits the hood, but it is just a hair away. Is this how yours is?
I have no idea how to adjust it, but the one in my 951 is just right. Fronts and rears lock up at exactly the same time.
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2010 Hyundai Elantra Touring, GLS 5 speed, Indigo Blue Metallic. 2.0L of Korean fury! Buy my parts! |
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01-26-2005, 07:20 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Brighton UK since 11/2012
Posts: 3,170
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Whatever you have, the brake bleed nipple MUST be at the top of the caliper.
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From November 2012; Precision Porsche Specialist Sussex UK, +44 (0)1825-721-205 2001-2012 Gerber Motorsport Inc. 206-352-6911 07.15.06 1996 Ducati 900SP. Suprisingly enough, it's red 08.16.09 1999 Kawasaki ZRX1100. Green. |
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01-26-2005, 07:23 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: San Jose, CA
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I will most certainly change the sides of the calipers and make sure they have the right rotation. As for the valve, it appears to "just miss the hood" when shut so I guess I'm ok. However, the front wheels lock up before the rears...I guess thats better then the rears locking up before the front
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1985.5 944 NA -Racing Headers, Cat-less Borla exhaust, New racing Cam, Turbo valve springs, multi angle valve job, big bore throttle body, Eprom, blue printed injectors, throttle response cam, -Just installed: M030 Suspension with turbo A-arms and hubs. Big Reds with rotors and stainless lines. Turbo sway bars front and rear. Boxter wheels, turbo mater cylinder, and MOMO steering wheel and shift knob. Just Finished: Clutch, flywheel and transmission...and TONS more! |
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01-26-2005, 07:28 PM
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