Engine Mounts

bluebullet · 02-15-2005, 06:07 PM

Upon further inspection when the car was up on the lift the other day the passenger side motor mount took a dump. The driverside one looks to be perfectly fine, but should I go about changing both? Is there really a big difference between the porsche mounts and the generic aftermarket ones? They are like a $100 difference each. If the quality of them is going to be junk then i'll just save a little and get a genuine mount...

Ninefourfour83 · Ninefourfour83's Garage

I have the same problem. My right side mount was shot and I'm getting them both replaced. I firgured that it would be worth it to have them both replaced just in case. As for genuine vs. aftermarket I can't help you there. I'm having a service shop do mine while they are fixing my cooling system.

IceShark · 02-15-2005, 08:09 PM

Replace them both but the reason the right one will be worse is it is getting cooked by the exhaust. They are right next to each other.

The old style mounts had two bolts with nuts that fastened into the struts off the engine. The updated style has a threaded hole in the mount that the bolts screw into - no nut. They made some other changes too. Make sure you get the new style.

As far as original Porsche or "aftermarket" original you can probably go with the aftermarket if they are the correct ones and save some cash. Only $50 each from Zims. Oh, and make sure you get the little mounting bolt kit with instructions. It is only like $8 extra and you will need new bolts and washers for the new style mounts as they don't come with it.

Meyle Products of Germany makes the factory Porsche new style mounts. You can tell if they are the Porsche because they will have the Porsche "triangle with the P inside" cast in the rubber. Meyle also makes "aftermarket" mounts. They are exactly the same except the factory grinds off the raised rubber Porsche logo because they didn't come through the Porsche inventory chain. I've had both in my hands and you can see the grind mark and that is the only difference you can tell.

bluebullet · 02-15-2005, 09:58 PM

thats really good to know! Apparently the bolts this guy used were too long and one of them punched a hole in the mount, and all the fluid leaked out. So no more nuts now huh? that will keep things from getting punched through the mount again.

Im guessing if I do a search on Zims I should come up with a link? Is Zims the full name?

bazar01 · bazar01's Garage

It's Zims Autotechnik.

https://secure2.advwebsys.com/zimcgi/goto.cgi?file=psearch.html

bluebullet · 02-16-2005, 04:32 PM

cool thanks a lot!

jakemu24 · 02-17-2005, 01:10 PM

What does it typically cost for 2 new mounts and to have them installed? Will the Porsche mounts last longer than the aftermarket?

Zero10 · 02-17-2005, 02:10 PM

2 mounts, anywhere from $50 to $125, to have them installed on an N/A, count on about 5-6 hours labour. The front crossmember has to come out, it's quite a pain.
On a turbo, 7-8 hours labour.

vital-transform · 02-17-2005, 03:10 PM

see my post from last week also info at www.clarks garage.com

vital-transform · 02-17-2005, 03:10 PM

see my post from last week also info at www.clarksgarage.com

IceShark · 02-17-2005, 03:36 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Zero10
2 mounts, anywhere from $50 to $125, to have them installed on an N/A, count on about 5-6 hours labour. The front crossmember has to come out, it's quite a pain.
On a turbo, 7-8 hours labour.

Naw, doesn't take that long. While I had my 951S 20 inches up in the air for my clutch job and the belly pans off, it only took me about 3 hours. And that was the first time I ever did it so I was checking things back and forth all the time to make sure something wasn't going to go wrong.

The $50 to $125 is part cost for EACH motor mount. And I think the $125 on the top end is low as of a couple months ago. The Porsche stamped through the Porsche distribution chain is now around $175 USD.

Ninefourfour83 · Ninefourfour83's Garage

Iceshark, you said you replaced your mounts in 3 hours and that was your first time. So mechanics at a service center that do this stuff all the time should be able to do it in less than 2.

I HOPE SO! They're getting paid by the hour!

Taz's Master · 02-17-2005, 06:26 PM

Maybe, the rear bolt on my passenger side is very tough to get to. Ex manifold too close to get a socket on, not enough room to connect 2 wrenches for leverage, and the bolt is tight. I'm considering buying and trying a crow's foot. I wish it was the old bolt and nut style. I was 1/2 hour just turning the front bolt, that doesn't count any other disassembly, and the rear bolt looks to be much more difficult.

TopsailBeach · TopsailBeach's Garage

Replaced mine a few weeks ago.

The driver side was more than difficult--not enough room to really move the wrench--then had to flip it each time to get the next pull.

After purchasing a set of gearwrenches, the process went much smoother on the passenger side. It's just a bit of time and patience. The gearwrenches made quite a difference.

bluebullet · 02-17-2005, 07:24 PM

yeah..if the weather is warmer im contemplating changing them myself..

Zero10 · 02-17-2005, 08:28 PM

I was just repeating time that a friend of mine was quoted when he enquired about the job at a local shop. Looks like I just found another good thing about him not going there.
On a 951 I would estimate the time to be 4 hours or so doing it myself, without a fully equiped garage.
If you had a shop with a hoist, a strut bar to hold the engine up, and a nice set of impact tools and all the little gizmos to get at difficult to reach bolts, I could see them being done in 2-3 hours on a turbo, and 2 hours on an NA.

bluebullet · 02-17-2005, 08:46 PM

my special tool is a BFP. Big F-in Pipe on the end of my rachet ( i have a few so I dont care if I break one). And thats what you use a jack and a block of wood for..to push the motor up a little when you are pulling htem out.

IceShark · 02-19-2005, 06:54 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Ninefourfour83
Iceshark, you said you replaced your mounts in 3 hours and that was your first time. So mechanics at a service center that do this stuff all the time should be able to do it in less than 2. I HOPE SO! They're getting paid by the hour!

Yup. Once you figure out what you need to release to get the mounts in and out then things go much faster. You are messing with suspension components so I was afraid something may spring out at 400 PSI and bonk me in the head so was taking it slow and re-checking what I was doing.

There is a finite limit on how fast you can do it as the bolts for the motor mounts are in VERY tight areas. And the nuts are lockers via deformed threads at the outer end. You can't just spin them off once you crack them free.

Your problem if you are going to take this to a service center is they will probably charge you book time. The actual mechanic may be able to do it much faster but it won't affect your bill. This is how good Porsche mechanics earn well over $100,000 a year. Not too bad for just a technical education.

Taz's Master · 02-20-2005, 04:29 AM

Turns out the threads were messed up on my troublesome bolt. It took a great deal of effort. I am going from the newer style to the older solid rubber style. Clark's Garage talks about spacer washers not needed on the right side. Do they go between the mount and the arm from the engine? I shoved a couple in there because I couldn't make them meet up without them.

Britwrench · 02-20-2005, 09:20 AM

The older style mounts, the ones that use a bolt and nut, do use a spacer between the mount and bracket. I didn't think they were available anymore as the aftermarket and Porsche parts both use just the bolt and the mount itself has a threaded boss.

There is a technical bulletin about engine mount updates, it's in the printed Porsche parts 944/928 catalog.

"Just a technical education"...yeah right, that's all it was, is and continues to be everytime new technology comes out.