Synthetic Motor Oil

[liljon's924S]

Just wondering if you can switch from regular motor oil to synthetic? My dad said you would need to change some things, is he right? I got a 924S.

[nynor]

nope. will work just fine.

[Z-man]

Keep in mind, however, that if you switch to synthetic, it may appear that you have developed some additional oil leaks. Actually, you won't develop additional leaks, but since the synthetic oil molecule is smaller/slipperier, it has a way of working through old seals more easily than regular organic oil.

I use Mobil 1 15W-50 synthetic in my 944S2. Year round.

-Z-man.

[Zero10]

Change nothing. Switch.
Settled

There is nothing you need to change to switch to synthetic oil.

[earlr85944]

synthetic is definately better than conventional. on higher mileage cars I have seen leaks occur (rear main seal etc) when switching over.

[Moneyguy1]

Might I suggest a blend such as Valvoline offers?

[AaronM]

Originally posted by Moneyguy1
Might I suggest a blend such as Valvoline offers?

You can suggest that but I don't know why anyone would.

A "Synthetic Blend" only needs to have 0.00000000000001% synthetic content in order to legally be called "Synthetic Blend", a good conventional oil will be better than almost all synthetic blends for much less money. A synthetic blend isn't remotely close to a full synthetic. If you're going to go synthetic, go synthetic.

Aaron

[Moneyguy1]

Just thought I would make a suggestion. I have used it for years now and have had no problems. Comes out "cleaner" than straight dino oil when changed (although I do change it twice a year). Used it in an old Sundance that burned no oil after 154k miles. To be honest, Valvoline considers their info "proprietary" and will not divulge the percentage of synthetic n the blend though. With older cars, I have had friends that did develop the dreaded "leaks" with full synthetic.

Shows how much I know about oil!!

[bryanthompson]

Has anyone heard of or used Tufoil (http://www.tufoil.com/tufoil/consintr.html)? A guy I used to work with swears by the stuff, but I haven't heard much about it from anyone else.

[THE manning]

There are a few threads over on Rennlist about this. There is a guy by the name of Doug Hillary there who has worked in that industry since the 50's who has some interesting insite into this topic. Check these two threads for some of the discussions:

http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/showthread.php?t=174275&highlight=synthetic

http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/showthread.php?t=228065&page=1&pp=15&highlight=synthetic

[M.D. Holloway]

Just to give you guys an understanding of what is in Tufoil:

COMPONENTS Weight %
Petroleum Hydrocarbon Motor Oil 35-40
(This is the base carrier for the additives)

Methacrylate/Vinyl Pyrrolidine Copolymer 25-30
(This is a viscosity modifier and a pour point depressant - gives it some body)

Polyalpha olefin 10-20
(this is synthetic oil - helps it be compatable with synthetics and semi-synthetic motor oils)

Didecyl adipate Dimer Ester 5-10
(This is also a synthetic oil - similar function to the PAO but will also help in removing some deposits)

Molybdenum Di (2-ethyl) Phosphordithlioate 5-10
(this is an anti-wear additive, albeit not the best)

Polytetrafluoroethylene 1-5
(a Teflon like substance - I wouldn't put it in my engine. Flourocarbons do not plate onto metal very well nor do they provide any abrasion resistance)

The question is, should someone use this in their engine or any other lubricated system? Only if someone gave it to you. I would buy it - not that great of a stretch from Slick 50. You are better off with timely oil analysis and a good engine oil and filters (air, fuel and oil).

[M.D. Holloway]

correction - I would not buy it!

[AaronM]

Originally posted by bryanthompson
Has anyone heard of or used Tufoil (http://www.tufoil.com/tufoil/consintr.html)? A guy I used to work with swears by the stuff, but I haven't heard much about it from anyone else.

Never, never, never put anything that has PTFE (teflon) into your engine. Teflon is a SOLID, and it is just in suspension. Additionally, it expands greatly with heat and has been proven in governmental tests to clog small oil passages.

Tufoil has a decent reputation because it uses a miniscule amount of Teflon and a higher amount of Molybdenum Disulfide. Molybdenum Disulfide is an excellent lubricant and has been used for years in air-cooled racing applications.

You're better off using Mr. Moly, which is a straight Molybdenum Disulfide additive rather than Tufoil because unlike Tufoil, Mr. Moly has no PTFE in it.

Aaron

[M.D. Holloway]

Aaron,
There is no Mo2S in that product and I am not sure I would use pure mironized Mo2S either. Great fro greases and open gear lubes and even as a dry film lube. Mo2S is a solid that is difficult if not impossable to keep in suspension. The other moly compound that is considered better would be molybdemum di-n-butyldithiocarbamate at a small percent (maybe 1/2% by weight). The stuff is expensive and at somepoint the more that is put in just doesn't get plated anyway. That is real good in oils.

[M.D. Holloway]

and I agree, teflon is good for a mold release or to spray on the head of your boat/camper so you don't have ***** stains in the bowl. As a lube additive in oil? Nope. Stupid.

[M.D. Holloway]

Thinking it through even further, the Molybdenum di(2-ethylhexyl)phosphorodithioate is called Molyvan L and the Molybdenum di-n-butyldithiocarbamate is called Molyvan A. Depending on the rest of the additives in the oil, they two are actually pretty similar. If the %concentraions mentioned by Tufoil are correct, that stuff muct go for $15 to $20 a quart! Or they are lying. If both are true, I just found a new supplier for Molyvan L!

[livewirevoodoo]

About time someone got around to posting a thread about dino vs. synthetic oils.

[M.D. Holloway]

you'z gots to hang over at the 911 techno posts more. That subject has been put near exhausted!

[seaboltman]

I got this link off another forum I frequent. Didnt get a chance to read it but ill cross post it anyway, so you guys can read.

http://www.sportrider.com/tech/146_0308_oil/index.html

[Moneyguy1]

Excellent article.