HELP NEEDED! please, im in need
 

ok so heres the deal, got the '44 put back together today, vacuum lines done, etc. im having other issues though.

here goes:

there is lots of slack on the throttle cable, so much as to where it wont idle, it wont stay running unless im pushin on the gas, even then it will bog out heres an example of a what happens

1. turn key
2. car starts, needle immidiately drops to 0 and stalls unless gas is applied
3. if i push the gas pedal all the way down, i dont get a response from the engine for atleast 3 seconds, then i get a *vroooom* then it drops back down.
4. tried fumbling around with this to get an idle going, no sucess, i looked at pictures to make sure i have the mounting plate and wheel installed correctly, to my knowledge i do have them installed correctly (tried for 15 min to see if it would go on any other way)
5. i tightened the bolt going from the cable to the fire wall, it is fully compressed, and that only removed maybe 1/2 the slack, still not idleing, still takes a long time to get a response from the engine after compressing the pedal.

how do i tighten this??? im soooooo lost, like i said, ive tightened the 2 bolts on the fire wall as much as they would go and still i have lots of slack

what am i missing here? what is causing this? how do i fix it? please someone help, as soon as i get this fixed my 944 will be running again, i have a deadline i really need to meet this friday and this is the only thing holding me back.

AFM connector loose/disconnected?

nope, checked it a few times as i thought the same but its connected, all vacuum lines are secured as well from what i can see and tell.

check the vacum line that opens that little flapper door on the intake.

you mean the 2 lines going to the throttle body? ive checked those, also checked the one under the manifold, one going into the side of it, the 2 going to the fuel rail (damper and regulator), the ones going to the temp. valve. the aux. air controller, tps and afm are both connected securely.

im leaning torwards the problem being the thottle cable, i can take the cable completely off the wheel without turning it.

that's not good. I don't know what to tell you. Do later years have a differnt cable perhaps? Maybe somehow you got one of those if you replaced it. I'm also not sure about it dying like that. I would think it should at least idle. I noticed my cable it tought but I didn't think it was actualy keeping the throtle cam from turning the oppicte direction.

the car should idle fine without the cable attached. when i redid the cylinder head on my '83, i forgot to attach the large vacuum line under the manifold. did EXACTLY what you are describing. i bet you have a large vacuum leak somewhere.

have you tried to manually (from under the bonnet) hold the throttle butterfly open to get an idle going?
I'd be tempted to check the idle control valve, if it sticks you'll have one hell of a time getting it to run right!
Also, check your Oxygen sensor's not become disconnected.
just a thought.

the hose is connected, but what if it is pinched? i think it might be folded in half, either way, how does anyone explain why the throttle cable is extremely loose?

no i was thinking about trying that but i had to get going, ill try that tomorrow, i dont believe there is a IVC on the early models. o2 is not disconnected although it is to be replaced soon.

There should be just a little slack in the throttle cable. It is not used to controll your idle. There is an adjustment on the AFM for idle. Also, check the big vac line that connects to the bottom of the J boot to be sure it is fully seated and sealed. Inspect J boot for any cracks. It sounds like you have a big vac leak.

There is an idle valve on the early 944s. If you look at where it meets the TB there is a little 8mm looking nut. That would be it. If i am not making enough sense I'll try to take a pic later. I adjusted mine this weekend. I got it to idle at 1200-1500 min. Haha. I gotta find something else to adjust now

ok ill double check all the lines again, but im not talking slight slack in the cable, this is a large amount of slack.

oh sorry i was thinking about something else, i would do this but i cant even get it to hold an idle at all, i didnt adjust anything when it was off

didnt touch the cable or throttle wheel when it was off other then setting it aside, didnt touch the icv, didnt touch the tps.

i noticed the vacuum fitting on the bottom of the j boot was not sitting in there 100% of the way, i could see shiny metal (5-6 mm) against the dirty metal, i couldnt get it to seat the rest of the way, could this be it?

still though im completely clueless to why there is all this slack now.

AFM connector loose/disconnected?

nope checked it

<B>ALSO:</B> when i was cranking my friend said he heard a popping sort of noise like metal hitting metal, i took off my intake pipe, pushed the afm door in and let if spring back to make a noise which was what i thought it was and he said it sounded just like that except it was really loud, maybe this is related?

did you try pushing that in while trying to start?

I think you have two problems...cables being one, but the bigger one is why it doesn't run correctly. I agree with the rest of the guys, sounds like a major vacuum leak. Even if it doesn't idle, you have to figure out why it doesn't accelerate and one cause of that could be to too lean a mixture probably because of vacuum leak. Another possibility is the reference sensors not setting the timing correctly. If it's retarded too far or advanced too far, it will knock and not accelerate. I have no idea how to check that, so hopefully someone will jump in that can tell you how to set those.

Here is a picture of my throttle cam and I'm hoping you can get a feel for where it stops and how the cables should look on the engine. If yours looks like this, the problem with the cables has to be where they attach on the other end. Hope this helps for this one...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1143007059.jpg

TPS....With your hand move the throttle cam and listen for a click. This click should be heard as soon as you turn the cam. If it does not click that could be your problem.

To adjust the idle you must bypass or delete the ISV first then turn the idle screw 7mm/8mm down till desired RPM is reached then reconnect the ISV.

Dal

Philly,

I'm no Porsche expert, but here is a $3.00 guarantee to find out if you have a vacuum leak. Go to your local parts store, get a can of carburetor cleaner. Spray the cleaner on any suspect hose, and even around the intake areas, you never know. If you have a leak, your engine will race up to 2500-3000 RPM.

I have seen a lot of crazy stuff with vacuum leaks. You'll probably need someone to start the car while you spray the suspect areas first.

I used to work in a restoration shop on American Muscle cars, and this is how we did it all the time. Sounds korny, but it works.

Frank