hmm
air compressor... never thought of that...
i dont own an air compressor, unfortunately... but I'm going to ask a stupid question anyway... would the cold air setting of a hair dryer work?

Probably not enough air pressure from that. My car has a tire pump in the back used for pumping up the donut spare that runs off the cigarette lighter and it should go high enough, however I'm not sure how you would connect it. You would also have to keep it far enough away to not let the noise interfere with listening for the leak.

damn.. my battery is dead... got a jimmy in the driveway, my father's, but he's out of town until sunday and the hood latch isn't working to jump my car..
looks like i'll be waiting even longer..

on the bright side, got all my bearings and stub/hub replaced in my rear wheel today.. now to sit down to some burgers, beans, and beer..... I'm on my own for a few days, might as well live a little. lol :p

Good news! Enjoy the dinner. Any trouble with the CV bolts?

nah.. rented a grinder from home depot for 15 bucks, ground them out, and replaced them with new hex head bolts...

had a b!tch of a time getting the outer bearing on though... well, the bearing was fine.. it was the inner part of the bearing that wouldn't slide onto the stub.. i had to torch the thing to expand it to get on there.. after doing that, it fit just like butter...

i tried to post this yesterday, but the internet was acting crazy, i think due to the nasty weather we were having. anyway, the connection i referred to in my earlier post is directly below the circled part of the intake. i had to take the intake off in order to get to it. i also found this plastic piece that was broken and had to replace it as well. i stole the picture from someone else's post. :) <BR><BR>http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1144420270.jpg

alright.. checked that hose nynor - seems tight enough.

however..

I did find a hose that's cracked. who knows. the last time i started the car it was cold outside, and maybe the warming of the engine made the hose expand, crack, and cause the problem.

It's the one that comes out the bottom of the Jboot, goes to the a/c component in this pic from the left side.. it then exits this from the right side (as shown in the picture), does an 's' curve, and travels up underneath the intake manifold.

that hose that comes out of the right side of what i'm holding in this pic has a couple cracks in it.

I attempted to remove the hose today.. i say attempted because i got the one side off just fine.. but the screw in the hose clamp up under the manifold is rusted and nearly impossible to get enough pressure on it with a screwdriver.. i probably just wasn't trying hard enough.

my plan is to remove this hose and in the long term replace it, but in the short term hold it under some water with the ends sealed and see if any air leaks through the cracks...

pics attached.

where the hose comes from:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1143152857.jpg


Cracked hose:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1144537650.jpg

I suppose i could try starting the car, and put my thumb over the cracks to see if that's the problem..


one more question... the hose in the first pic above that enters that little (valve I think is what we decided on in a previous post?).... the one that enters it from the left (as show in the pic).. is it supposed to be a rubber hose? or a braided hose?
..mine is braided.. looks awfully out of place..

as per my last post, putting my thumb over the cracks (and even taping up the cracks) did nothing. there's no leak there..

my other question remains.. the hose going from the jboot to that a/c switch in my last post.. is that supposed to be rubber? or a braided line...?


now, point of new post:

alright.. breaking news. lol

I got the car jumped today and started... i let it run for a good long while, and as it was running i cut the zip ties off.
the car was holding idle at about 800rpm, but it really sounded like it was chugging... the exhaust had a slight sputtering to it.. not rhythmic or anything, fairly random.

as I was cutting off the zip ties... success.. i heard a hissing sound from under the intake in this area:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1144628907.jpg

it was coming from directly under the intake in this area...

I decided to get a screw driver and put it into what nynor has told me is my "mixture screw" and turn it. The second i put pressure on it, the hissing stopped... i could turn it, and the idle would increase/decrease, and the hissing would get louder and quieter...

could that screw just be out of position? could that be all I'm facing at this point in time?

pull it all the way out and see if there is a destroyed rubber O-ring.

pull what all the way out, exactly? the mixture screw?

the hissing sound really sounded like it was coming from the side (where the red line is), and not from the screw area....

its either the mixture screw, or the gasket between the throttle body and the intake manifold. just guessing here.

Stick a piece of paper in front of the screw and see if it sucks in toward the screw. Also do that around the gasket and see if it sucks the paper toward the gasket. I'm guessing that it might be the o ring on the screw. Check all bolts around the gasket to make sure they are tight.

will do

how do you "set" the screw? is there any way to do it other than just twisting it 'till your idle sounds right?

like i said.. the hissing is coming from the right side, not from around the screw... but i'll check the o-ring anyway... to get to it, do i just undo the screw all the way?

update today..
after jumping the car yesterday and letting it run for a good 15 minutes or so, i went to start the car today and the battery is still dead..

the battery is brand new, only about 8 months old.. could the problems be related at all?

the car ran unassisted yesterday (no jumper cables) for the 15 mins or so... I'll be getting a volt meter on it tonite hopefully.

Eldorado,
I can see that your in for tons of fun here. You must be VERY young and inexperience in cars in general? Are you doing all your diagnosing of your car STRICKLY off this board? Do you have a haynes manual? a copy of the FSM? Or anything else to get a real, live, general approach to diagnosing these kinda things? If not, you REALLY need to, and ya really should read it often. I know money is always an issue. BUTT.........if your gonna play........your gonna HAVE to pay somewhere, sometime along the way.

What did all of the rest of us do when there WAS no internet, and/or forums to refer to?

You MUST! Systematically, eliminate each and every item of suspected problem(s) along the way, starting with, the easiest things, and progressing the harder things. Battery being dead, may or MAY not be a related symptom. You MAY have multiple things going on at the same time.

That hose in pic two is shot! replace it. Is it keeping your car from running.........NO. Vacumn leaks, can and will be a problem. IF you systematically go thru and eliminate them (repair/replace), they will NO longer be an issue to go back to, or wonder about.

"hissing"..........well, sounds like a MAJOR leak of some kind. FIND it!

thank you granite for once again telling me absolutely nothing. what a help.
I didn't ask the question to be told to diagnose and find the problems myself. that's why this place exists. to provide assistance. these posts of yours are not helpful at all.

I'm 23 years old and have spent most of my life dealing with telecommunications equipment. If you have a dhcp error on the network that runs your digital telephony and internet service within your house or building preventing you from connecting to the pstn... or a break in communications in the 4th layer, somewhere, of the OSI model... and you didn't know you had these specific problems, just that your phone and internet "were broken", you'd ask for help.

I appreciate the time spent to writing such a lengthly post that essentially tells me to "do it myself"... but I could really go without it.

now.. with that out of the way..
I got the multimeter on the battery today, and it was reading at 6vdc. very low, i realize that. my question is, does this sound like a normal charge rate for a car that was running at least 2k rpm for 10 minutes, then kicked down to a barely sub 1k rpm idle for an additional 5 minutes? should i let it run longer? would driving it make a difference than letting it idle?

Eldorado,

6vdc is too low but I wouldn't be too concerned with it until you know for sure the battery has reach full charge. If it continues to go down after that, then put an amp meter between the positive side of the battery and the battery cable and let's look at the amp draw. Until then, I would suggest that you work on the other problem of the vacuum leak. Having a battery that isn't sufficiently charged may affect the running of the car, but the vacuum leak is what's really hurting it right now. Let's get that fixed and move on to the battery problem. I would say that only running the car that long will not guarantee the battery is at full charge. Turn the engine off and turn the key back on and see what the volt meter on the dash says. It should be at about 13 or 14 when fully charged. Like I said though, stay with one problem at a time and right now, it's a vacuum leak. Trying to deal with too many things at once can be overwhelming.

Take for instance that you are not receiving a DHCP address preventing any type of PXE boot and you are unaware why the lights are continuously flashing and the PXE server isn't registering any new systems in the main console. Lots of problems there but if you find out there is a broadcast storm and that's preventing any DHCP requests to be answered. After that you can move on to why PXE packets aren't being sent through the switches between the PXE server and the requesting machine. One problem at a time and it will all work itself out. For now jump your car if you need to get it running but work on the vacuum leak and move on to the charging system after the vacuum leak is taken care of. Have you checked the oring on the screw? Mark where the screw is at and then pull it and inspect the oring. Then let's put a mirror under there so you can see and try waving something really thin like a piece of paper around until you see the suction move the thin paper. Then let's look at what we have to do to fix the leak. Then let's look at the charging system.

as always, a great answer :)
I've got tomorrow free.. you can bet your butt i'll be out there trying to get a handle on this...
so much to do.. i also need to do my 2k mile belt retension.... lol

but you're right... one thing at a time... Tears for Fears were right... "when it's all mixed up, you gotta break it down."

of course, any song that uses "fast off through heaven just like moses on a motor bike" is a good song in my books...

how's Boston???

based on the condition of the hose (and I would guess they are all like that) I would start by replacing all the hoses. While it may be overkill, hoses arent too expensive, you can eliminate that as a potential issue and you could possibly prevent your next issue.

Granite was a bit harsh but I think there is still a message in there. Get in there with a trouble light and dont get out untill you figure out the problem. Trace every hose, check every clamp and fitting.