dropping transmission to replace gas tank

[dan476]

I need some clarification on dropping out transmission.
as far as i know i have to disconnect shift linkage from the shifter (why is that required if the shift linkage is disconnected at transmission side?) Also while i am playing around with linkage what can i do to firm up my shifter, it wobbles side to side quite a ways while in any gear.

what bolts, other than 2 mount bolts, need to be disconnected and where are they located (does anyone have pics of their locations)

[SoCal Driver]

You have to disconnect the shift linkage AND pull it forward a foot or so. If you have disconnected it then you need to take another look at where the trans will hang up on it if not pushed/pulled forward.

Don't forget the wires on the reverse light switch.

[JivenJim]

Shifter Play often comes from the Male stud that goes through the Shift Linkage being worn down. Also the washer that act as shims seem to become warped. Those you can replace with washer to get that end Clip on as tight as possible.



Shift linkage Disconnected at Tranny and Shifter.
Rotate shift linkage 180degrees and push forward .


The Toque tube bolts that need to be removed first. (inside Tranny through rubber portals)
Those 2 19mm directly above the center line of Tranny. On the Welded in Cross member.

Backup lights: follow Wires that are up high on passenger side (up by fuel filters)

[GMingst]

The reason you need to pull it forward is to clear the transmission housing which more or less drops straight down. It can't move back much due to the tire well. If you leave it, it will catch the tranny when you drop it.

[dan476]

thanks guys, while i am down playing around with transmission, i should probably change transmission fluid. What type/kind should i use and what one is the best one?

[nynor]

red line mtf

[dan476]

Ok if anyone has a original manual under removing transmission, step #6
"Remove end cap on central tube housing and push back selector rod far enough, that it is outside of the central tube housing. This requires pressing in the retainer on the protective tube with a large screwdriver applied through opening in central tube housing."

Can anyone explain what they mean by that and where exactly its located, picture in manual doesn't make any sense to me so i need guidance through this step. Does anyone have an actual picture of it? I am going back to the shop to do that tomorrow, but right now i am a little stalled.

Also how would i reduce the wobble on my shifter lever, is wobbles side to side, transmission is almost out, is there anything i can do to linkage?

[Razorback1980]

do a search for the shifter...apparently there are bushings you can replace to help a little bit.

[drift a 944]

Originally posted by dan476
Ok if anyone has a original manual under removing transmission, step #6
"Remove end cap on central tube housing and push back selector rod far enough, that it is outside of the central tube housing. This requires pressing in the retainer on the protective tube with a large screwdriver applied through opening in central tube housing."

Can anyone explain what they mean by that and where exactly its located, picture in manual doesn't make any sense to me so i need guidance through this step. Does anyone have an actual picture of it? I am going back to the shop to do that tomorrow, but right now i am a little stalled.

Also how would i reduce the wobble on my shifter lever, is wobbles side to side, transmission is almost out, is there anything i can do to linkage?

Alright if I remember correctly....

There should be 2 allen bolts holding the sleeve that connects the driveshaft to the transmission. You will have to look through the holes in the bell housing to see them and get to them, and they are on opposite sides and opposite ends so you will have to turn the driveshaft 180 degrees to get the 2nd one.
Once you get the bolts out, you will have to take a pry bar or "large screwdriver" and push the sleve over to the driveshaft side.
Hopefully this made some sense and you get it worked out, good luck!

[JivenJim]

Drift covered the important parts.

Here's some other Picts




The Goal - Tranny

[dan476]

ok got my transmission and gas tank out,Thank youy very much for the help and pictures

this saturday i am gonna reverse the procedure and put everything back together.

[Eldorado]

best of luck!

[SoCal Driver]

Did you look for/find the crack on the top of the tank? Was a thread about it a while back.

[dan476]

no it was about completely rusted tank.

[SoCal Driver]

If you took it to a repair facility that does clean and recondition then it is possible that they pressurized the tank - possibly. If they did then they should have found any cracks that normally occur on the top of the tank.

[Granite 944]

Originally posted by dan476
no it was about completely rusted tank.

Really. I'd like to hear more about what ya mean by "rusted" tank. Inside? Outside? Rust particles inside, and just needs a good cleaning?

What is your plan here. Replace tank with a used one? If so, like Hugh said, there have been, and are issues with cracks in the top side of these steel tanks. Do a search (fuel smell, cracked tank, ect.). I've had, and seen this myself personally on a few tanks. If your gonna go with a used tank, it would really, really be a good idea to have it pressure tested at a radiator shop or whatever, PRIOR to install, OR after your search, you may learn enough as to what to look for on these tanks, and take the risk on your own. Having the tank checked and repaired is really relatively cheap. Do it before you re-install. Also familarize yourself closely with the drain in the body boot on the filler neck behind that fuel door. Save yourself the "gas smell" issue, if ya do.

[dan476]

Yes "Really", by completely rusted tank i mean when you cannot see any silver coating anywhere on the inside walls as it is covered in rust everywhere,top to bottom(on the inside), and it is also rusted through on the side of the tank, its unrepairable, i have "new" used tank that i will pressure test tomorrow before i put it in.

[dan476]

2 bolts that hold clamping sleeve to drive shaft (hexagon head, i think #8) what is the torque on those?

thanks

[JivenJim]

58 ft/lbs for Drive Shaft Sleeve bolts. I like to make a cross mark on the center of the access portal. I also mark the U shaped depression center line of 58 ft/lbs for Drive Shaft Sleeve bolts. I like to make a cross mark on the center of the access portal. I also mark the U shaped depression center line of shaft with some White out or such. When putting the clamping sleeve on it's difficult to find proper distance. That's how I had to buy some 8 dollar bolts cause the tip got stripped knocking the edge. you should be able to hand tighten with only the socket extension till it's almost finished. otherwise you are probably not on the right spot. If that head of that bolt is not perfect, replace it. Last thing you want is a stripped bolt where it won't go in all the way and won't come back out! Note my previous bolt blunder.

I also put d-40 on the shaft splines to help lubricate Tranny penetration. May take some strong wiggling to get it on.
some White out or such. When put the clamping sleeve on it's difficult to find proper distance. That's how I had to buy some 8 dollar bolts cause the tip got stripped knocking the edge. you should be able to hand tighten with only the socket extension till it's almost finished. otherwise you are probably not on the right spot. If that head of that bolt is not perfect, replace it. Last thing you want is a stripped bolt where it won't go in all the way and won't come back out! Note my previous bolt blunder.

I also put d-40 on the shaft splines to help lubricate Tranny penetration.

[dan476]

thanks Jim