Engine removal problem

[GreenWater]

My 85.5 944 had some major water leaking problems so I am replacing the engine with a 88.(Water and oil were mixing freely.) I have already disconnected everything on the engine and it is currently being held up by an engine hoist. For some reason the engine doesn't want to come out of the car. Yes, everything is disconnected. I removed the bolts that hold the drive shaft tube to the clutch housing. When I try to slide the engine forwards and down it seems like it is kind of taking the tube with it, and bending it down. There is about an inch gap right now, between the tube and the clutch housing and I can't get anymore. What is going on? Should I keep the rear of the engine in the normal spot and just lower the front of the engine until I can slide them apart? I am afraid of braking or bending something if I keep on lowering the engine. All I have to go by is a poorly worded haynes manual. What is the exact procedure once the engine is completely free and ready to be removed? Should the tube bend/lower with the engine?

Thanks for any help.

I love this car and since it isn't running, I am forced to drive a pickup truck, and that sucks. Please help me get back into my 944.

[Britwrench]

The current coolant/oil mixing is either the oil cooler seals or head gasket. Common problems easily overcome. Now you are installing another used engine which may or may not have the same problems (either now or in the future).

Anyway, back to engine removal. The driveshaft connects the trans to the clutch, that is probably the tube you are seeing. You need to pull the engine forwards enough to clear it. The crossmember and steering rack need to be removed if you are pulling the engine upwards (not recommended as dropping out from below is easier) and also the radiator and cooling fans should be removed. This will enable the engine to come forwards far enough to release the driveshaft from the clutch.

[GreenWater]

I decided to replace the whole engine for a couple of reasons but the main one was the milage that my engine had on it. It would have needed to be changed in a while anyways.

When pulling the engine forward, should I be lowering it at the same time, or, should I pull it all the way forward until it comes off the tube and then lower the engine? I have the radiator removed, but not the distributor, do I need to remove it too?

[Granite 944]

Manual trans, or automatic? Different stuff apply here. Make enough info known here.

[GreenWater]

Manual Trans.

[JivenJim]

I would make sure the Tube is in the near middle area adjusted by engine hoist. Pull back the hoist a about 1 foot, so you can see some angle on the chains like the Engine would want to swing toward the front. Put a crow bar between clutch bell house and tube flange, and wedge it out. also a little shaking while pulling helps. Normal from my experience. Also out of gear while doing.
And Did you remove the Heater water exchange hoses in back of engine? plus all vacuum lines from intake manifold. Not that I would of done that or anything ;+)

[GreenWater]

Thanks Jim

Should the engine be level when I am pulling it forward that 1 foot? Won't the engine hit the front of the car before I get 1 foot of clearance?

Yes, everything is disconnected.

[JivenJim]

Clutch slave detached from bellhouse and Starter motor also off??
Exhaust disconnected at the 4 to 2 down pipes or such?
Gotta check you cause we all forget stuff now and then.

I pull the distributor cap and rotor + Radiator prior. (or you can break them) Cardboard or blanket could dampen front impact if your going it alone. Good time to have radiator flushed and cored while out. Engine should be relatively level to the tube. For me I really do Gerk / rock it a bit but have extra person or hand to control forward swing when it breaks free. Pry some, then jerk and pull some. Notice the distance of exposure spline tube shaft (torque tube) as you work. This will help you note that you are doing it and about how much farther you need. I thinks you need about 16-24 inches of forward engine movement to clear.
Once free, add about 30degrees nose up and ease it out.

Remember any angle between engine and tube will add friction and cause you to drink many beers wondering if you forgot to remove a bolt or should spend more time in the Gym.

[GreenWater]

Thanks Jim

My car is in Temecula right now and I won't be able to work on it until Monday. I will try that and see what happens.

Yes, everything is removed. More or less, I work on removing items from the engine for 4 days. I have everything off, and then some. Exhaust is completely removed, clutch slave and starter both off too.

I do have someone helping me, I wouldn't try this alone.

Thanks for the help, and I will let you know how things work out.

[JivenJim]

If it swings with Cap off and Radiator out, Hoist Chains usually stop on Headlight Cross Bar. I have not seen this as a problem.
The Jerking / hopping can really be kinda forceful. Better to try and not let the tube bottom out as it bounces thoe. But I doubt you could hurt anything.