More A/C questions

Aslet · 08-28-2007, 07:27 PM

I know this is a talked over topic, but I have done some searches and not found what i want...

I am replacing my A/C compressor and while its being worked on I want to know about converting to R134a coolant. What do I need to replace to do the conversion, rubber hoses and seals? Can anyone give me an estimate price for this process?

Also, I have heard different views on converting to r134a. Is R134a better/worse/same as the original R12? If it is about the same I think it would be worth it for environmental reasons, I also don't want that crap to leak in my garage.

So any thoughts and information on this?

THANKS!
-Randy

mattdavis11 · 08-28-2007, 08:05 PM

The environmental thing is a scam. A patent was about to expire, or had already. Anyway, you can do as much as you like or as little as you like, really makes no difference if you have zero leaks. Flush the lines, replace the drier, what ever you want to do, it's up to you. At the very least I'd pull a vacuum before recharging. R12 does cool better, but it cost more.

Eldorado · 08-28-2007, 08:37 PM

i'll stand by my standard response to this type of question..

use Duracool

it works as an R12 replacement. nothing needs to be done to your current system, and it's much cheaper.

If you're that worried about the environment, then you shouldn't be driving a 24 year old sports car

Aslet · 08-29-2007, 04:34 AM

Lol, true...

I have heard of Duracool and Freeze 12 now... They are suppose to both be direct replacements for R12. Any opinion which is better to use; works better, cheaper, and is better compatible with the R12 system?

many944s · 08-29-2007, 05:47 AM

I am a big fan of sticking to R-12, but that is beside the point.

Of alternatives out there, I would lean towards the Freeze 12. It is usually a little more expensive ($1.00 more per lb around here), but cools slightly better that the Duracool imo.

The obvious advantage to these options over R134a is you don't have to remove all the mineral oil and replace it with PAG, just MAKE SURE you add the proper amounts of oil, per unit you replace in the A/C system. I believe there is a chart in the Haynes manual with the oil ammounts for each portion of the system. If not, let me know and I will dig it up

-Nick

adrian1 · 08-29-2007, 07:47 AM

I retro fitted my car, vacuumed all the old stuff, put the PAG and fill it up with 134a. However when I keep the A/C on for a while i start getting water pouring out of the glove box..?

many944s · 08-29-2007, 08:03 AM

Check the drain tube that goes from the plenum through the bottom of the car, often they get plugged, and the condensate will leak into the foot wells. If you get enough water in there it will actually spray out the vents!

adrian1 · 08-29-2007, 08:23 AM

Thanks Ill check that out soon.

kevinbly · 08-29-2007, 11:41 AM

I had the exact same thing happen to me. Fixed the AC after a long time of it being inop and went around a curve and a wave of water flies from the vents and into my lap

. I confirmed that it was indeed the drain hose under the AC unit. Cleaned it out and it was good to go.

Good luck!

Kevin B
- '87 951
- '02 986 S
- '94 318iS
- '05 C240

onZedge · 12:30 PM

I spent $27 on two cans of Freeze12 and an R12 recharge hose this past June after my A/C was inoperative for a couple of years. I still have ice cold air today. I actually have to adjust the temperature knob to avoid freezing my nipples off!! Oh, and I had to fix the disconnected drain line from the evaporator housing.