Let the 924S modifications begin...

[onZedge]

The strut comes out pretty easily. Pull the brake line from the retaining clip, loosen 4 strut bearing mounting nuts, remove the 2 strut-to-knuckle bolts and it's out:





Requisite "before" picture. Note the spring compressor:



Even simple tools make quick work of the strut housing nut:



This must be why the 100K+miles OEM Fichtel+Sachs strut finally quit working. Little bits of hard plastic - part of a valve, I guess:



The strut mount bearing is not a sealed bearing. This was very loose and made a gritty sound when I rotated it:



The new 200# spring is about 20mm shorter than the OEM 125# spring and weighs over 1 kg more:



(contd.)

[onZedge]

Degrease. Final wipe with lacquer thinner. Air dry for 1 hour. Convection bake at 250 degF for 1 hour or until done. Allow to completely cool before assembly:



Things to do while waiting for paint to dry:
a) Fabricate a believable story to explain why the kitchen stinks. [Note to self: look for hardhat from last job site visit]
b) Make new strut mount plate-to-body gaskets to replace fossilized remnants of the originals.




The KONI instructions say to add 50mL of antifreeze (I used a light oil). Big mess. Should be more like 15-25mL for a 924S strut:



Requisite "after" picture. A spring compressor was not needed for reassembly - just a little muscle to get the nut finger tight. Don't forget the bump rubber:



I think the nut is too close to the monoball bearing plate. I started a new thread just for the KLA monoball/KONI strut hardware sequence issue that is still not finalized at this writing:



The strut-to-knuckle bolts were a b!tch to get in with that big sway bar connected to the control arm. A small pry bar and a couple of large punches helped things along:



Some old posters had to take a grinder to the monoball mount plate to fit it in. It doesn't look like a problem for a 924S:



Driving impressions:
Pending alignment (I do my own), but the new assembly only dropped the front end 5mm instead of 25-35mm. That's how worn out the OEM springs were.

Weights:

Old 125# spring, 2.44 kg
New 200# spring, 3.46 kg
Rehabilitated strut assembly, 8.74 kg

I forgot to weigh anything else.

[Aslet]

Have you done any more work since you installed the new springs? This project is very interesting and has alot of good information about car upgrades. BTW nice job with the struts, they look new. I also noticed you put a Koni sticker on the bottom, were they originally Koni Yellow's and you just cleaned them and made them nice looking again...?

-Randy

[onZedge]

KONI included stickers with the strut inserts - so I had to properly clean and prep the housings, paint them with School Bus Yellow and bake them in an oven before I installed the new stickers. I hadn't planned on doing this originally, but hey, they sent me new stickers!!

I am currently replacing the tranny output shaft seals and replacing the CV joints with new ones. Rear wheel bearings, SS braided brake lines and all the rear bushings are also in the very near future. Lots of pictures and narratives to follow...

A DIY front wheel alignment narrative is also down the road a ways (grease, plumb bob, bubbles and lasers!!). Rear wheel alignment is way after that.

[Arizona_928]

It looks really good.

where did you get your koni's and spings?

[onZedge]

KONI Sport Adjustables from AJ USA
Weltmeister 200# lowering springs from Paragon