Intake, Vacuum, Idle Control, Fuel ect project

[EMBPilot]

First off, id like to thank Jon and Tom for there extremely fast and very helpful advice. It was about 65 degrees here in jersey tonight so i figured with 90 percent of the parts here, nows a great time to start taking the car down.

its almost three AM so im just gonna put up the pictures and write about it later tomorrow when i have a clearer head.

the only casualties were the Fuel Damper (it pissed me off), ISV rubber mounts were split in half, it was just knocking around under the intake, the Oil filler neck that i dropped (tom saving the day on a replacement), and i found lots of small stuff that needed to be addressed such as large cracked vac lines, cracked injector hat.

I took lots of notes, went slow, asked questions when i got stumped and everything came off relatively easily. most of the bolts i gave a shot of PB to before i started working on the car as i was labeling everything first.

the to do list...
- replave the ICV with a new one

the while your in there list
- new fuel lines to the rail and on the rail
- new injector seals
- replace cracked timing belt cover
- replace coolant hoses
- replace weeping radiator
- replace heater control valve
- replace heat related coolant hoses for interior
- replace reroute vacuum lines
- replace all the large rubber vacuum lines
- new intake gaskets
- new coolant tank
- new DME temp sensor

one interesting thing i came across was this car seems to be hinting to me that its an 87. First during the timing belt install we didnt find a spring tensioner, and now during the vac line replacement i found that the AOS breather hose was in fact the 25 dollar 87 version of the hose, rather than the 100 dollar one.

here are the goods, guys please feel free to offer guidance, advice ect, nows the time!

the jury is still out on whether or not im going to send the injectors out to be cleaned.

[EMBPilot]

[EMBPilot]

[Razorback1980]

With all those vacuum leaks and injector fixed, this car is going to run so much better. Good job on the labeling...I used my video camera there as well. Hopefully it will help me put mine back together properly.

[GostRidr]

Looks great Kevin! I recommend getting the injectors cleaned or replaced. My buddy replaced a lot of the same parts that you and I did except that I had my injectors rebuilt. My car definitely pulls smoother throughout. Could be a coincidence but why not while you are doing everything else?!

What are your plans for the manifold? Polish, powdercoat.....

Make sure your ref and speed sensors are spot on while you are down there. They can be a real pain and they are very difficult to get to after the fact. As always, clean any grounds you can too.

good luck!

[Techno Duck]

Are you sure the engine was never changed on your car? I find it hard to believe an '88 engine which is supposed to have higher compression has no spring tensioner. Its possible someone retrofitted a older eccentric tensioner on by drilling and tapping the boss, but i doubt that.

Check the part # on your DME in the passenger footwell. It should be 944.618.121.05 . If you have a .04 ending number its possible you have an earlier '87 and older engine.

[EMBPilot]

Tom mentioned to look on the back of the engine near the filler neck for a engine number but i didnt see one, except for the numbers i photographed above 944.101.101.9R there is another number written sideways further back stamped onto what looks like the bell housing. is there any other place i can check?

[924Sman]

Definetly a late engine, whether it is an 88 or not? Should run a higher compression than an 87, try a compression check or put a scope in a cylinder and check for a dimple on the piston head face. If flat may have an 88 or euro pistons. If there is a dimple and 2 valve slots it is an 87 or<.
Engine number I found best seen from the pass. side looking str8 down over the speed and reference sensors.

I was reading a while ago about some owners replaced the spring tensioner for the essentric roller for ease in belt tensioing and weight. I say weight as the people were racers that were in the discussion. This could be a case here. PO decided to go the cheap route when it was thought they needed a new tensioner for what ever reason.

As far as the ISV hold down bracket goes mine broke too. Very brittle rubber. So I tie wrapped mine down and works fine.

Dal

[EMBPilot]

i didnt even think of tie raps! that would have certainly worked.
the other number i found its sideways, just infront of the reference sensors it says 43E01238

[924Sman]

You have a late 85 engine......43 E is an 85/5. 43F is an 86 43H is 87 and so on. The letter is the key for year, the number prior is the engine version. 44 is a 87 version,etc.
The other #'s are the serial # ...0-6000 so yours would be # 1238 in line of mfg.
Dal

[EMBPilot]

no freakin way! so its NOT the engine that came with the car in 88. Well thanks for helping me figure this out. interesting stuff Tom if your reading this given its a late 85.5 will your filler neck still work?

[Razorback1980]

Yep, those are the numbers I was talking about. Explains why the hose you bought from Pelican worked.

Not sure, mine is off an 87 engine but I'll double check before I send it. Can you measure the diameter of connectors and the top hose?

Numbers are: top connection for vacuum hose: .690" (app 5/8") top connection on block 1.095" (app 1 1/8") bottom connection for block is 1.275" (app 1 1/4"). I know I need to get a mm mic, but right now that is what I have.

[Techno Duck]

Saving weight by using the eccentric roller is completely not worth it, i mean your talking about shaving off maybe 2lbs off the engine. For simplicity sake, i actually think its easier to set tension with the spring tensioner as theres no fussing around with torquing down the eccentric roller while giving it counter torque with the oblong wrench. Thats just how i see it though.

The oil filler that Tom has should work as long as it was not from an '83. I am 99% sure that all cars from '84+ got the two different sized o-rings, i went through this a few weeks ago at the dealer ordering the o-rings for my friends early '85, which had the two different sized rings. I remember the book saying it was only an early and late-ish '83 thing.

[Razorback1980]

I just looked it up in PET. The break was in the early vs. late 85 engines. Mine is off an 87 and his is a late 85, so they are the same. We also double checked the sizes, so we are good. Thanks again for the heads up on this Jon.

[Techno Duck]

I wouldnt sweat the engine swap.. i am sure you can live with the loss of .2 points of compression and 5hp less .

[Razorback1980]

Not to mention that he saved 80 dollars on the AOS hose! Just remember this when you order parts in the future.

[EMBPilot]

im not worried about the engine swap at all, i find it interesting, i was telling tom, i wish this car could talk because i bet it would have a lot to say... the fact we figured it out made the other things fit together.

the 5hp less, does that mean i cant drag race it anymore?

i sent the injectors out to witchhunter today.

okay time to dig in and start getting greasy.
thanks so much guys for all the great help.

[EMBPilot]

you guys have any tips for cleaning the grounds at the rear of the engine? im almost afraid to touch them, i dont want to make matters worse or break something.

[Techno Duck]

Put a piece of duct tape over the access window first.

Take them off and clean the area and ring terminals with a wire brush. Put them back on and coat with di-electric grease.

[EMBPilot]

Thanks jon! ive had a rag over that window, one of the first things i did. the terminals were covered in green gook, i scraped them all down with a wire brush tons and tons of dust came off, i wire brushed the nuts too, i'll put a thin coat of that grease on there and tighten them down.

Thank you!