Intake, Vacuum, Idle Control, Fuel ect project

[Techno Duck]

Put the grease on after you put the ring terminals over the stud and tighten down with the nut.

[onZedge]

I did something similar this past summer. Replaced all the rubber pieces that could be a potential vacuum leak. Big and little air/vapor hoses, AOS o-rings, injector seals/caps, IM gasket, throttle body rebuild kit, all new clamps, venturi delete, BB check valve, etc. While you are in there, you might consider the dipstick tube o-ring, the 730 cap o-ring and, what the heck, the gas cap seal too. BTW our sponsor has the ICV lord mounts for about $4.50 each, I think.

NOTE: if it doesn't start after you put it all together, make sure the reference sensors are plugged in correctly - they can easily be swapped. AMHIK

...and yes they are called lord mounts...

[EMBPilot]

oops. i did it before i read your post jon, i coated the terminal rings and the base with a small swab of dieleletric grease then tightened it all down, i could take them apart to clean them and do it over if i need to. that stuff conducts so it should be okay right?

unfortunatly the filler neck was the last part off, and needs to be the first part back on so im pretty much stopped here for now.

today i got a lot done, all vac lines on the firewall, HCV, installed the new radiator, installed new timing belt covers, new alternator belt, hopefully cleaned the ground properly, installed new water hoses.

i havent touched the reference sensors hopefully with the slight moving in the harness they will still be okay.

the only water hoses i didnt change were the ones going directly into and out of the heater core, they looked like a major PITA to get to and the hoses appeared to be fine.

in the mail are the oil filler (much thanks to tom), fuel damper, ISV mounts, and the fuel kit.

more to come once the last of the parts start showing up.

[Techno Duck]

Dielectric grease does not conduct electricity, thats why its used!!!

[EMBPilot]

crap, do i need to take it apart again? i coated everything with a thin coat....

[Eldorado]

I would...

[Razorback1980]

Everyone has their own way of doing things but I always coat mine before assembly making sure I fill every crack or void in the connection and here is why. If you put the connection together first, there are air holes between the bolt and the connector whether it's just between the stud and the connector or between the two connectors. The whole purpose of dielectric grease is to remove the oxygen and other contaminants that cause copper to oxidize causing a poor connection. If you trap those elements in by applying after assembly you have indeed removed any more from going into the connection but you have also caused those already inside to not be able to escape and corrode your connection. The flow properties of dielectric grease allow it to be squeezed out of the way to provide the electrical connection but fill any gaps preventing corrosion from inside as well as outside. Here is an article on RX7 grounds that explains it very well...not Porsche but principles are the same. It's kind of long but it has a lot of good information in there. I do my battery cables the same way...coat the terminals then attach cable end. Same principle.

http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/grounding.htm

[lleroyb]

If you are waiting for parts anyway, you might consider changing the engine ground bolt to a stud and nut. It will make future maintenance easier. The picture is mine before cleaning.

Lou

[EMBPilot]

Thanks Lou!
the PO already switched it, its just a nut on a stud now, i knew it was changed because it was a HALF INCH NUT! i had to walk alll the way across the garage to get to my standard sockets, scratching my head on the way over

Toms filler neck is here (THANKS TOM!!!!) so i'll start to put this all back together...
only other parts that are MIA so far are the Fuel Lines from Rennbay (appear to be lost in the mail)

and Witchhunter received my injectors, cleaned them and sent them back out express mail on the SAME day! hats off to him!

so hopefully mid week I should be all set. But will do a majority of the reassembly this weekend each night. (as long as i make it back from work on time each day)

FYI on a few of the vac hoses. the large rubber one that goes from the drivers side fender to the three way elbow that plugs into the Jboot can be found at Advanced for about 3 bucks and the line that goes from the brake booster to the intake manifold can be found at napa for about 3 bucks (both list for 60+ dollars).

does anyone here have any tips for putting the intake BACK on without an extra set of hands? im dreading plugging in (with a host clamp) the short stubby line from the ISV to the intake all while lowering it into place and securing it.

[Techno Duck]

First off double check you tightened all of the hose clamps.

Connect the line on the underside of the manifold and tighten, then connect the line on the front of the intake and tighten. From there just lay the intake manifold back on with the intake gaskets in place and stick a couple of the bolts in and thread a few turns. Remember to put the one 13mm bolt on the side of the intake back on and attach the dipstick. Not as bad as you think

[EMBPilot]

Thank you Jon,

hat's off to witchhunter performance! i sent my injectors out on monday clear across the country, today they were on my door step! cleaned and with all new seals and caps! One of the injectors failed its test before cleaning so im really glad i sent them out, because the numbers across them evened out substantially after he cleaned them up all.

now the hold up will be fuel lines from rennbay that have vanished in the mail.

another hold up is going to be ME mustering up the courage to go out in the garage and work in 25 degree weather

[EMBPilot]

finally got some time off work to get the car back together.

Everything went very smooth. I decided not to use grease on the intake gaskets, they were pretty easy to line up and they stayed put when i lowered the intake back on. I just made sure the little notches were lined up on each intake port and the rest seemed to line up well.

The new ISV is in, 99% of the new rubber hoses and clamps. I filled and bleed the cooling system, it was easier than i thought. I back filled the head, filled the rad, hooked up the pressure tester and i was done in no more than 5 or 10 min with bleeding. im sure there are still going to be some airpockets i'll have to work out once i actually start it up.

I completely freaked out because i didnt tighten the clamp on the outlet of the heater control valve, the one closest to the firewall, and it leaked like crazy when i brought the system up to 10psi. i got a couple more cranks on the hose and it seemed to stop. but boy was i sweatin it seeing the coolant come off the bell housing!!! YIKES! i had the window still covered thankfully.

and the radiator i got from plyhammer is nice and tight, no weeping!

i painted the injectors and hopefully the fuel lines will get here tomorrow, travis had to completely reship a new set.

tomorrow all i have left to do is the fuel rail, the lines, airbox, pictures for you guys, and the very last of the vacuum lines and i should be able to fire it up and report back.

[Eldorado]

i wanna see it now!!
wake up! go! do it!

[EMBPilot]

Kyle, you must have been out drinking last night "3:10AM"












well the *&^ing fuel lines still arent here so i cant start it up to really see if i did this all correctly. i leave for work for two days tomorrow so i wont be able to get the lines on (if they ever show up) until friday night.

the reassembly went okay. a lot faster than the disassembly. I didnt have any extra parts left over. I referenced a lot of the pictures i took for small things. Routed most of the vacuum lines along the engine firewall.

question about the injectors, they are seated properly in the rail and i coated the seals lightly with ATF, once the fuel rail was put back on if i look closely in the injector ports on the intake, using a light, i can barely see a little yellow from what i think is the yellow spacer, is that normal? i dont remember seeing the other ones but i really didnt LOOK for them. i pushed the fuel rail down firmly when i installed it and they seem very secure. could be a bit of paranoia.

[Techno Duck]

As long as the o-ring is seated in the manifold it will be fine.

[Wipeout]

Is this an 85/1 or 85/2 engine? I'm having a hard time locating my ICV/AAV on my 85/1 and would love someone point it out for the dumb and blind (me!).

[EMBPilot]

85 and a half motor. if yours is in the same place as mine its a gold looking cylinder under the intake manifold strapped into a bracket.

[Wipeout]

Ah, the giant metal "spider" thing (can you tell I'm a gearhead...not!). Probably easier to get to with the manifold off...Great. Definitely sounds like a project I want to do... :/

I like how you already updated your sig about your motor. :P

[Razorback1980]

Looks like you have it. Nice work. Makes you wish you hadn't taken the old ones off until you had the new ones, doesn't it? If one could only see into the future. I think I'll order mine from somewhere else.

[EMBPilot]

It PURRRRRRRRRS!!!

all done guys! thanks for all the help and SUPPORT!
thank you Tom, Thank you Jon, GhostRdr and Dal!

The fuel lines made it here (ordered them on the 8th). the hose clamps were too small so i had to go hunting for one size up. not too hard to find the fuel clamps. i needed three 15mm's.

Unfortunately, the radiator i got from ply, does leak just like my old one i thought i got away with a good one but after looking closer theres a very small weep which will drip from the drivers side, i may just run with it or buy a new one.

After getting the fuel lines on i had someone else crank it, and start it while i watched with a fire extinguisher in hand. No fuel leaks! And the coolant was bleed well. The car PURRS at idle now, cold and warm, the idle doesnt budge more than half a needles width. It seems to run, and pull the same as it did before, and the temp stays just below the first mark like it did before i undertook the project.

Here are the pics guys. THANKS AGAIN!