Power steering removal problem

[mikeran]

I have all the bolts and hoses disconnected, but I can't get it to come out of the steering shaft joint. I have PB blasted it and tried prying it, but, it will not budge.

Any suggestions on how to break it free so I can get it out?

Thanks

[Sigurd]

I assume you have removed the bolt that goes through the coulping on the shaft. Try to widen the split on the coupling as well.

[John_AZ]

Sigurd is correct about the bolt. When you remove the PS unit, try to visualize (remember)how you have done this step because upon assembly you will come to a point that you cannot get the steeing coupler back together.
Do you have the PS lock bolt to set the rack center upon assembly?
http://www.*****************.com/category_s/381.htm

GL

John_AZ
1988 924S 58.5K --Replaced the PS rack in August, 2008

[mikeran]

Yes the bolt has been removed, but it still will not budge, it's rusty there but not that bad and the bolt came out fairly easily. I tried to widen that gap as best I could not easy to get anything in there and with all the bolts loose it move around a lot. Any suggestions on what works best to widen it?

No I don't have a lock bolt I will just have to do my best to reinstall it centered. Worst case remove and reinstall the steering wheel to recenter it.

[Slam]

Place cold chisel or stout screwdriver in gap and pound away. That'll spread it.

Another option is to disconnect the coupler by the brake booster and leave it attached to the rack. You'll have some manoeuvering to do but it'll come out that way.

[Zero10]

The coupler will bind on the shaft if it gets even a TINY bit crooked. Really, it's very picky.

I like to put a couple bolts back in the rack, pry the coupler upwards until it is about 1/4 of the way off, then take the bolts out, pulling the rack forward and prying the coupler upwards. Sometimes it helps to leave the passenger side bolts in a couple of turns to take some of the weight off during this step. If you think it's a PITA to get off, just wait until you are trying to get it back on.

Before re-assembly I use one of those battery terminal brushes and some WD-40 or an actual rust dissolver and scrub the heck out of the inside of the steering shaft coupler and the splined shaft on the rack. That extra couple thousandths of an inch really seems to help.

[MrWrong]

When I rebuilt my rack this summer I eventually had to use a pickle fork to seperate the rack from the coupler. Be warned this will destroy the little plastic dust cap on the rack. I had a new one with the rebuild kit so I didn't care.

Make sure to coat the coupler with never-seize when you put it back together, it'll make life a lot easier the next trip around.

Good luck

[mikeran]

Thanks everyone, the rack from h*ll was finally removed last night. I used a long thick screwdriver and found just the right angle that not only spread the side but went up as well, 30 minutes of constant pounding and it finally came free. Discoverd the return hose is rotted from rust so have to wait on a new one before I can reassemble. Will clean the connection up really well and use some non seize on it. Let's hope I have a long time before needing to do this again.

[Slam]

Hey, Zero - back in Calgary? How's life?

Zero's method works but be very careful not to pull on the rack too much. There's a danger of pulling the entire steering column forward with it, and you won't know what's happened till you hop in and turn the key. Sparks and smoke 'cause the indicator switch's tolerance have been overstepped.

[Zero10]

Back in Calgary indeed. 951 is parked in the back yard and I'm playing the role of a full time student right now. Life is good, trying to keep in the 944 community. Moving sucks, I had just finished making a nice group of friends out in Vernon and now I'm back here, knowing almost nobody. Oh well, more time for my studies (and the forums) I suppose
Now I need to find a bunch of local gamers and hold some LAN parties... how I miss those.

Wow, I've never seen the entire steering column pull forward. Usually I lift the rack up and forward them pull the intermediate shaft off by hand. When properly aligned it should come off that easily. Pulling the rack straight forward about 1/2"-1" shouldn't pull the steering shaft at all, but if it does, sorry!

[Slam]

Welcome back to Alberta, dude. Not to hijack the thread, but there's a Calgary guy in need of help with a head R&R job on an 86 944. He'd wanted me to come down but I just don't have the time. I can forward his phone number if you have the time or inclination to help out. I understand being a full-time student. BTDT.

The only reason I mentioned the column pulling forward is 'cause that's what mine did the first time I took the rack off. Probably too much brute force on my part and not enough thought. Oh well, I thought, I needed new switches anyway.

[Zero10]

Been there, done that, head is on, nearly everything else was on, IIRC the current list was:
air filter box
fuel rail
vacuum lines (just the small ones)
battery
starter motor
Or at least that's where it was at when I left. Little does he know, this means he has to come over in the spring and help me drop the motor in my 951
I think I'm going to fix the oil leaks before I sell it, and when doing an oil pan gasket and re-sealing the oil pump, I might as well just drop the motor.
Good point for something to look out for. I hadn't ever considered it happening, and just because it never happened to me doesn't mean it won't happen to somebody else. No reason not to warn people. A switch saved is a switch earned /cliche mode

Its nice to be back in alberta, now I am just working on finding some people for a LAN party and everything will be set
/hijack

[Slam]

Thanks! Pelican strikes again.