Slave bleeding. how-to??
 

So i used my motive powebleeder to bleed the system last week when i replaced the master and slave, but couldn't for the life of my get the pedal for the slave to firm up all the way. so tomorrow is another day that i have time to knock some stuff off the list, and am wondering what is the proper way to bleed the slave with the power bleeder. ?

You might have to resort to manual pumping/bleeding... At very least, make sure to have the car's butt as high as possible relative to the nose, to let the air out - the bleeder's at the back, so not easy for the air to escape.

You may find it just goes better a second time around, simply for having sat and given the air time to coalesce. Tapping on the side of the slave with a wrench lightly to coax those bubbles loose doesn't hurt either.

the trick in these is to make sure there is fluid in the front corner of the reservoir - they put a divider in there to prevent loss of brakes in the event of a clutch hydraulic failure - getting fluid over that divider is sometimes tricky - as mentioned, tapping on the reservoir may help - tipping the car rear high helps

otherwise, follow the instructions on the bleeder - make sure enough fluid is in the bleeder - i have found that 11 pounds of pressure works well

if you still have a problem, carefully inspect the high pressure line while somebody is pushing on the pedal - they are well know to expand like a balloon when they get old - they only rated to last 8 years

if this oddly fails and you have to go to manual bleeding, never pump the pedal - that creates micro bubbles - it is one release for one stroke (open screw - push evenly but not fast - hold at the bottom - close screw - release - repeat)

I just replace master and slave cylinders and the flexible line yesterday. Even with the motive bleeder, I still had to do some manual bleeder to get a nice firm pedal.

the first few times i did this, i came to the same conclusion - then one day when i was doing this, after power bleeding (consisting of a half dozen cracks of the bleed screw while maintaining fluid in the front corner of the reservoir), but before i could get to the manual stage, i let it sit for a while as i had to run off abruptly - when i came back to it later that day, i had forgotten where i left off, so i power bled it again - i hopped in to do the manual bleed and it was perfect - i was then reminded of where i was when i left - since then, i just do the power bleed process twice, waiting a half hour or so between "phases" - it seems to let the micro bubbles sort themselves out

For cars before the S2, the only reasonably easy way to bleed that line is by using the junction between the hardline crossover and the hardline/flexline that goes down to the clutch:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/4559562-post77.html

I just looked at an 89 S2 yesterday, and they routed the lines differently so those are different...