Slave bleeding. how-to??

[Arizona_928]

So i used my motive powebleeder to bleed the system last week when i replaced the master and slave, but couldn't for the life of my get the pedal for the slave to firm up all the way. so tomorrow is another day that i have time to knock some stuff off the list, and am wondering what is the proper way to bleed the slave with the power bleeder. ?

[924RACR]

You might have to resort to manual pumping/bleeding... At very least, make sure to have the car's butt as high as possible relative to the nose, to let the air out - the bleeder's at the back, so not easy for the air to escape.

You may find it just goes better a second time around, simply for having sat and given the air time to coalesce. Tapping on the side of the slave with a wrench lightly to coax those bubbles loose doesn't hurt either.

[flash968]

the trick in these is to make sure there is fluid in the front corner of the reservoir - they put a divider in there to prevent loss of brakes in the event of a clutch hydraulic failure - getting fluid over that divider is sometimes tricky - as mentioned, tapping on the reservoir may help - tipping the car rear high helps

otherwise, follow the instructions on the bleeder - make sure enough fluid is in the bleeder - i have found that 11 pounds of pressure works well

if you still have a problem, carefully inspect the high pressure line while somebody is pushing on the pedal - they are well know to expand like a balloon when they get old - they only rated to last 8 years

if this oddly fails and you have to go to manual bleeding, never pump the pedal - that creates micro bubbles - it is one release for one stroke (open screw - push evenly but not fast - hold at the bottom - close screw - release - repeat)

[rb101]

I just replace master and slave cylinders and the flexible line yesterday. Even with the motive bleeder, I still had to do some manual bleeder to get a nice firm pedal.

[flash968]

the first few times i did this, i came to the same conclusion - then one day when i was doing this, after power bleeding (consisting of a half dozen cracks of the bleed screw while maintaining fluid in the front corner of the reservoir), but before i could get to the manual stage, i let it sit for a while as i had to run off abruptly - when i came back to it later that day, i had forgotten where i left off, so i power bled it again - i hopped in to do the manual bleed and it was perfect - i was then reminded of where i was when i left - since then, i just do the power bleed process twice, waiting a half hour or so between "phases" - it seems to let the micro bubbles sort themselves out

[kdjones2000]

For cars before the S2, the only reasonably easy way to bleed that line is by using the junction between the hardline crossover and the hardline/flexline that goes down to the clutch:

Okay, here we go: The great fix it/upgrade thread

I just looked at an 89 S2 yesterday, and they routed the lines differently so those are different...