Clutch replacement....do i need to remove the headers??
 

Just wondering if I have to remove the headers, or just everything to the rear of the headers?? I am going to be replacing the rear main seal.

If I remember, and I have a late 944, you can leave the exhaust headers on.

shogunther,

Did you get the 85.5 started or are you just moving on to another area?

Separate the exhaust from the headers at the exhaust manifold gasket. Have 2 new gaskets available.

Do you plan to do any further clutch work?

GL
John_AZ
1988 924S + 1987 924S

John_AZ,

Yes I did get it started. The speed and reference sensors were not gapped properly. I have to hold the pedal down to keep it running....I hope the missing throttle cable bracket is the reason for this?? I am now going to replace the rear main seal and possibly replace the clutch. I bought this car for $300.00 and the engine was all taken apart so I am putting it back together.

IDLE. Yes the bracket would help. If necessary.go to www.Clarks-garage.com and read about the TPS-throttle position switch and the AFM-air flow meter. Check the values and clean the contacts.

The RMS-rear main seal. The block has a slot for a screwdriver to remove the seal. Try not to damage the aluminum block with your screwdriver or put a scratch on the crank. The old seal may have been put in with a sealer on the outer edge.

To prevent leaks from the new seal, the pros use Curil-T available from Pelican. I used the shop method of applying WD-40 to the block surface and the outer seal surface. WD-40 is slippery-good and it gets stickey to seal out oil.

Clean the crankshaft--OIL the inner seal area with thick oil--press the seal in to the bottom-BELOW the block bevel

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1242822680.jpg

GL
John_AZ

X2 on the seal placement, I left flush once-bad move! I think one of the manuals says to leave it flush, but it will still leak.