Clutch replacement....do i need to remove the headers??

[shogunther]

Just wondering if I have to remove the headers, or just everything to the rear of the headers?? I am going to be replacing the rear main seal.

[exitwound]

If I remember, and I have a late 944, you can leave the exhaust headers on.

[John_AZ]

shogunther,

Did you get the 85.5 started or are you just moving on to another area?

Separate the exhaust from the headers at the exhaust manifold gasket. Have 2 new gaskets available.

Do you plan to do any further clutch work?

GL
John_AZ
1988 924S + 1987 924S

[shogunther]

John_AZ,

Yes I did get it started. The speed and reference sensors were not gapped properly. I have to hold the pedal down to keep it running....I hope the missing throttle cable bracket is the reason for this?? I am now going to replace the rear main seal and possibly replace the clutch. I bought this car for $300.00 and the engine was all taken apart so I am putting it back together.

[John_AZ]

IDLE. Yes the bracket would help. If necessary.go to www.Clarks-garage.com and read about the TPS-throttle position switch and the AFM-air flow meter. Check the values and clean the contacts.

The RMS-rear main seal. The block has a slot for a screwdriver to remove the seal. Try not to damage the aluminum block with your screwdriver or put a scratch on the crank. The old seal may have been put in with a sealer on the outer edge.

To prevent leaks from the new seal, the pros use Curil-T available from Pelican. I used the shop method of applying WD-40 to the block surface and the outer seal surface. WD-40 is slippery-good and it gets stickey to seal out oil.

Clean the crankshaft--OIL the inner seal area with thick oil--press the seal in to the bottom-BELOW the block bevel



GL
John_AZ

[914efi]

X2 on the seal placement, I left flush once-bad move! I think one of the manuals says to leave it flush, but it will still leak.