Head Gasket...what am I missing?

[ScoobySteve]

I've got 133,000mi and owned the car since 73,000mi. I've never done the head gasket and neither did the original owner. No mixing of coolant and oil yet. But, when the motor is cold it spits coolant out the tailpipe and smells sweet. When the oil is hot it doesn't smell nearly as much and seems to run stronger. I'm overdue for a belt change and figured I'd do the head gasket and all of the intake manifold items at the same time.

I've searched, combed the results and come up with this parts list, including the WYAIT items:

- Head Gasket Set
- Oil Cooler Seal / Gasket Set
- Front Engine Reseal Kit
- Intake Manifold Gaskets (x4)
- Camshaft Bolt
- Cylinder Head Nuts (x10)
- Upper AOS Seal
- Lower AOS Seal (x2)
- Heater Control Valve
- Lindsey Vacuum Line Kit
- Rebuilt Water Pump
- Water Pump Gasket
- Water Pump Stud
- New Thermostat
- Copper Exhaust Manifold Nuts (x8)
- Witchunter Injector Servicing (seems like it includes new seals and caps)
- Head Checked and Flycut as needed
- 1 Gallon Simple Green

Tools:
- Arnnworx "Full" Kit
- Oil Pressure Sleeve Alignment Tool

Am I forgetting anything? I also have a few other questions

1. Are exhaust manifold gaskets included in the head gasket set?
2. Valve seats...do I need to do them?
3. Any way (without digging in) to tell whether I have an updated water pump or not?

[John_AZ]

1.Exhaust manifold gaskets are included. Exhaust manifold flange gaskets are not.
2.Valve seats. Machine shop will inspect and advise.
Valve guides. Machine shop will inspect and advise
Valve stem seals are included. Rubber style OEM. Upgrade seals are available.
3.Upgraded pump has a silver "belt guide" bolted on

What do you need-
Thermostat seal that fits around TS. 2 sizes. NAPA
Water pump stud??? Only if you expect rusted nuts and bolts. Have a WP gasket sealer like Holomar (sp) or Permatex. Wake up all bolts-applies to head as well
Camshaft seal replacement procedure: http://www.benms.com/944camseals.html
ICV/ISV rubber mounts-they rot
Heater control valve short top hose
ICV/ISV hoses-usually crack at bend-NAPA may have workable substitute
Acetone to clean surfaces and a lot of razor bladess.
New screw type clamps non perforated for all hoses under intake that have pinch clamps
Flywheel lock to make the front seal/WP job easier

You have really chosen to do a lot all at once. Good luck
Expect to order more from Pelican during the work

GL
John_AZ
1988 924S + 1987 924S

[Icey1174]

There is a recent post up about a much stronger timing belt and balance shaft belt. I would assume your are replacing the belts too while you have that all apart but I did not see them on your list.

Get 3 lock washers for the rear cam housing gasket cover. The three screws back there have a very low torque setting and the lock washers will help make sure they do not back themselves out over the next couple years.

[flash968]

because they are local to you, you can probably save yourself some time and money by going to RC Engineering for the injectors

valve seats etc - well, if the head is off, and you have that many miles on it, and haven't done it recently, a valve job will bring back a LOT of new life and power

[Schumi]

Originally Posted by Icey1174

Get 3 lock washers for the rear cam housing gasket cover. The three screws back there have a very low torque setting and the lock washers will help make sure they do not back themselves out over the next couple years.

+1. Because when they do back out, you will have a wonderful smoke machine courtesy of oil dripping on the hot exhaust.

[theykallmekem]

dont forget the case of beers ^_^