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Registered
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Relocated to Alpharetta, GA
Posts: 124
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Rear Main Oil Seal
Do I need to drain the oil to change it?
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Current: 2014 Jetta SE 1.8L Turbo 2001 Civic 4 door, totaled ![]() Red 1985.5 944 NA sold Maroon 1985.5 944 NA sold |
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In the Fires of Hell.....
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No.
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PCA Instructor: '88 951S - with LBE, Guru chips, 3Bar FPR, 1.3mm shimmed WG, 3120 lbs, 256 RWHP, 15 psig boost |
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Proprietoristicly Refined
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: ~Carefree Highway~
Posts: 5,833
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science,
Here are some tips to do it right the first time: Step 1. get a 4 inch screw type plastic sewer cap from Home depot. Cut out the square top so the crank fits-not more. And tap--tap---tap--it in. OR buy a Pelican $60+ seal press. "FWIW Installer error on any seal is the major problem. Like KuHL 951 posted, using Curil T (Pelican $10.75) will seal the RMS against leaks. If you are out of Curit T and want to finish, WD-40 on the outer seal and sprayed in the cavity will also work and it gets gummy after a while to seal better. The crank surface has to be wiped clean of all leftover grease and dirt. You have to oil the inner seal and crank surface with a thick oil or the seal will burn out fast. The seal has to fit to the bottom of the recess. Especially with the Kaco seal. The Kaco seal is smooth on the outer surface half way-this goes in first. The outer half has "ribs". The seal must go to the bottom of the recess "below" the block/casing "bevel". You can get a professional seal press or go to Home Depot and get a 4" screw in sewer PVC cap. Lightly sand the bottom to smooth rough production edges and cut out the center square portion to fit over the crank end. If you have properly oiled the seal inside and out as mentioned above, it will slide in easily with gentle tapping. The block bevel will let you know if you have a correct 360 degree fit and not have an edge that is "off" If you are not through, any RMS will leak. Step 2. Read more. Intalling rear main seal troubles GL John_AZ |
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1985 +1985 Porsche 944
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: northern VA
Posts: 58
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Another thing that you may want to do is use the old seal and put it up against the new seal like the solid ends against each other so you can put it in all the way properly. But its still difficult.
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Registered
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Relocated to Alpharetta, GA
Posts: 124
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Thanks all for the replies, I just got concerned when I started pulling the old seal and oil began leaking out. I didn't want to continue pulling it if I was going to get a quart of oil with it. Anyways, I'm calling it a night. I got the seal in; greased it and pushed it in with the old seal. It sits quite a bit deeper that the old seal but I compared new to old and the new seal had a smaller profile so I think it's OK.
Got as far as putting trans in. After wrestling with and nearly crushing my foot I'm going to just go rent a trans lift for $20 ![]()
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Current: 2014 Jetta SE 1.8L Turbo 2001 Civic 4 door, totaled ![]() Red 1985.5 944 NA sold Maroon 1985.5 944 NA sold |
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