Replacing My Clutch

[jacketfan89]

Hey Guys!

Just wanted to start a thread about my clutch replacement so if I have any questions, I can just post them all here!

I didn't accomplish much today...lol. I spent most of my day reading over the how-tos and familiarizing myself with the process. I was able to drop the belly pan and get 5 out of 6 bolts out of the exhaust pipes...Like I said, not much accomplished. 3 of the bolts broke off which actually made them easier to remove.

The other 2 were easy to reach and with a wrench and ratchet and wd40 they came right out. The last one (The bolt at the top of the upper exhaust pipe) is a pain in the A$$....I got tired of messing with it tonight, so I'm going to try again Wednesday.

So hopefully Wednesday, I am able to drop the rest of the exhaust, and drop the tranny. I am still confused about these speed reference sensors. For one, I can't find them...and two every says be careful because I will probably break them. What is the BEST way to remove these things?

Once I do that, I can get into the clutch bellhousing and see whats REALLY going on.

Thanks for the help,

Matt

[mikepellegrini]

You have seen the GSM reference at Clark's, right? http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/clutch-01.htm

Really, really helpful...

Lots of lucks!

[Schumi]

There lots of threads to search through here on clutch jobs. My clutch job documentations thread, with some pics and lots and lots of descriptions, including lots of tips on getting the ref. sensors undone, is here:

My clutch job, in pictures:

And a follow up thread, when I was done, including some other tips/tricks here:

Clutch job done, my final thoughts/tips/stats

[mikepellegrini]

Originally Posted by Schumi

There lots of threads to search through here on clutch jobs. My clutch job documentations thread, with some pics and lots and lots of descriptions, including lots of tips on getting the ref. sensors undone, is here:

My clutch job, in pictures:

And a follow up thread, when I was done, including some other tips/tricks here:

Clutch job done, my final thoughts/tips/stats

Yeah, the thread you did was really great! Pictures really help...

[John_AZ]

Originally Posted by jacketfan89

I am still confused about these speed reference sensors. For one, I can't find them...and two every says be careful because I will probably break them. What is the BEST way to remove these things? Matt

Matt,
You will learn alot from the pictures Schumi took and his advice. He also explained well on how to save money on the clutch job.

Back to the sensors & sensor bracket.
Schumi had 2-10mm bolts (on top) holding the reference sensors to the bracket. You will find 2 hex pan head bolts holding the sensor bracket to the engine. IF YOU STRIP THE BRACKET HEX BOLTS YOU WILL HAVE ALOT OF TROUBLE.

Before you even put a tool to the bracket pan hex bolts try to remove the sensors. This may save you a lot of trouble--if it works.

Soak the 2 reference sensors with PB Blaster or any decent spray Penetrant. Tomorrow morning! Before you leave the garage, disconnect the sensor connections. Remove the TOP 2-10mm reference bolts. Spray more on the reference sensors and now twist R & L. Get the lube down the sensors and bracket.
When you get home spray more and keep twisting--------BUT NOW start to pull UP while twisting. If they move UP at all, spray more lubricant.

If you are lucky to twist and twist the sensors up and out-----you DO NOT HAVE to remove the sensor bracket to get the bell housing off.

AND, if you cut out the bellhousing reference sensor area in advance, you can set the gap before you put the bellhousing back on. The bell housing will slide in.

I have circled the pan head bolts you should find and the cutout you should do.



If the sensors do not twist and pull up, have patience with the bracket hex bolts. They may be stripped already.

GL
John_AZ

[944_science]

Clutch job will definitely give you a new appreciation for your car!!! I did mine about a month ago over a week period while my girlfriend was out of town (easier to turn kitchen into workshop that way ). I used Clark's instructions with a combination of the porsche shop manual and Schumi & Techno Duck's pelican posts for pics. Take your time and do it right.... Oh and get a bunch of labeled ziplock baggies for all the bolts. Good luck

[jasonmx5]

Just finished installing my new clutch last night. I actually did it while I had the engine out to fix some leaks, which makes the doing the clutch much easier. Getting the pin that holds the clutch release arm/fork out what the biggest PITA for me - I had to remove the cover with the pressure plate and throwout bearing still attached and go in backwards to get it out. That and the fact that two of the pressure plate bolts got rounded out and my father-in-law broke off an easy out inside one of them. . .

Put some anti-seize on the pin where it slips into the aluminum cover when you put it back in to save yourself some hastle if you ever have to do it again.

[jacketfan89]

Thanks for all the advice guys!! I'm really hoping I can get into the clutch housing tomorrow...as long as I start early...so while I'm in there is it best to replace pressure plate clutch disk throwout bearing pivot bearing speed sensors and rear main seal if leaking???? Anything else I might consider replacing? These phone dial rims better hurry up and sell!!!!

[Techno Duck]

Absolutely replace the RMS. Just take care when installing it. Clean the ground points on the bell housing also. You can easily do the budget clutch job and just change the disc and have the flywheel and pressure plate resurfaced. But honestly that job is such a pain in the butt to do that i would replace everything in there with new parts while its apart. No sense in having to go back in and do it again a few thousand miles down the road.

[Schumi]

No reason to replace the speed sensors, unless you break them somehow.

A clutch kit comes with a new pressure plate, and t.o. bearing.

[John_AZ]

It will make the installation of the clutch disc easier if you have a "clutch alignment tool" Pelican $9. If you or your buddy has a 1990 Ford Ranger tool it would also work as well as a couple others that are close. On early Porsches, I would just stick a steel rod in the hole and wiggle until I got it close.

Clutch tip #27, When you are at the assembly point and the Torque Tube drive shaft does not go into the cluch disc and pilot bearing. Mount the clutch slave to the bell housing and push the petal. This will release the PP on the disc to allow easy fit. NEVER press the clutch petal with out the slave mounted or you may ruin the slave seal when the slave rod overextends

GL
John_AZ

[John_AZ]

Originally Posted by jacketfan89

...so while I'm in there is it best to replace pressure plate clutch disk throwout bearing pivot bearing speed sensors and rear main seal if leaking???? Anything else I might consider replacing?

The first thing you will wish you had was Thermal Foil to replace the torn heat protection and fiber stuff getting in your lungs.

PARTS:
Exhaust manifold gaskets 2
New flywheel bolts, they stretch. Some replace the PP bolts
RMS $20 KACO Pelican (I use)-----Some prefer the Victor Reinz--more ribs and a little taller. Get a Home Depot 4" screw type sewer cap to press the RMS in.
Pilot bearing
Clutch fork needle bearings 2
TO guide tube
Grease Gun Tube of CV grease-Pelican

AND your selection of clutch parts. Follow Schumi or my earlier suggestions or the complete kit you found. Add a few other replacement/broken parts.

While waiting for parts, there are other WYAIT tasks you are sure to find.

GL
John_AZ

[jacketfan89]

I guess what I'll do Budget wise (all of the bearings and gaskets and seals are a lot cheaper than I thought) is pull everything and see what parts of the clutch need to be replaced and what I can get by with doing later. I know its a pain in the butt to do the work, but I don't want to drop all of that money right now. I really just need to get it back on the road, so I'll probably follow your suggestions John and go from there.

One question,

I don't see the RMS or the clutch fork needle bearing on pelican parts??

Link?

Thanks,

matt

[John_AZ]

RMS=Rear Main Seal
999-113-426-41-M204 Flywheel Seal, 924S/944/968 All (1983-95), Each
Brand: Kaco Engine Seals & Gaskets $20.00

Clutch fork bearing---clutch release lever bearing------ need 2
999-201-213-00-M40 Clutch Release Lever Bearing, 2 Per Car, 924/944/968 All (1977-95), Each Brand: INA Clutch Release Lever & Bearings $10.50

Clutch fork inspection. Look at the clutch fork ends that press on the TO (throw out) bearing. Slight wear is normal. Smooth/even out the area. Check for fork cracks. If the fork is cracked or bent--search EBay or post WTB (want to buy) on Pelican Parts Wanted.

When you remove the clutch fork shaft/rod, inspect the rod for needle bearing wear. The needle bearings cause indents in the shaft. If the indents are VERY serious--really deep, this is a part you may want to replace. If the indents are slightly noticeable, lightly buff out/sand with 400 or 600 grit emery paper. Not to remove grooves completely but to soften the indent edges. Your call.

951-116-133-00-M260 Cross Shaft for Release Bearing Fork, 924S, 944/S/S2/Turbo, 968, Each Brand: OEM Cross Shaft $32.25

Good luck Matt,
John_AZ

[jacketfan89]

DEFINITELY learning a lesson in patience. My exhaust is hanging on by ONE tiny rusted bolt (the hardest one to reach in the manifold i'll add) and until I can get that out, I can't go ANY further. That and the fact that half of my 280 pc mechanic tool set that I bought from sears is distributed all over the house, is not helping.

I decided to come inside and vent a little. I only have 3/8" drive ratchets and I think that is half of my problem. If I can get a quarter inch I can latch that onto the bolt on the back and then turn the nut with my other 3/8" ratchet, a couple of extensions and a universal joint adapter, I may be able to get this d@mn thing off... AHH

I'm going to go to NAPA in a few and see if I can grab a decent set of cheeseheads...and allen sockets. Hopefully if all goes well, I can still drop the transmission today!!

I'll keep you guys updated,

Matt

[Schumi]

You're lucky it's just 1 bolt. I've usually had to grind off 3 or 4 of them whenever I work on these exhausts.

Air compressor, die grinder, and a cutoff wheel. Or, for quicker, yet tighter work- a FireStorm style electric grinder and a huge grinding wheel. Takes about 5 minutes to eat though the bolt like butter.

[jasonmx5]

Just think, you haven't made it to the clutch housing yet

Those exhaust nuts & bolts are a PITA, partially because they are lock nuts on there, so it takes more force to turn them. This force is much harder to put on them when you can only turn the ratchet 2-3 teeth at a time. Perseverance!

[jacketfan89]

I guess its off to home depot to buy a grinder...3 hours is WAY to long to spend trying to get a stuck bolt out...AHHH what a waste of a day!

[John_AZ]

HF HF HF HF HF HF HF HF HF (Harbor Freight)
Look at a set of 1/2" too. The bell housing and trans axle are tough. Do you have a Torque wrench?

John_AZ

[jacketfan89]

HF is CHEAP...but everything I buy from there Breaks!!! and its like an annoying 20 minutes from my house which sucks to go back and forth lol. No I don't have a torque wrench, but I know I'm going to need one when I start putting everything back on, so I was going to buy one when I get to that point. :-P