What needs replacing when removing the manifold?
 

I have to clean my ISV because it's not working properly. I hope it just needs a cleaing. the PO said it was new. I want to order everything I need so I can get this job done all in one shot or atleast try too. I know I need to replace the manifold gaskets. I also have to buy mounts for the ISV because the PO just has it laying under the manifold. Is there anything else that I will need to replace or should replace?

Thanks.

do you have a turbo? if yes, then replace all the vacuum lines with new hose. You might want to think about replacing whatever rubber is under there if it hasn't been done yet.

I was going to tell you about the ICV mounts...I replaced mine with a new unit and broke one of the rubber mounts getting it out...wish I would have known about those in advance.

Other than that, you can do a venturi delete if you haven't already...maybe even pull out your CV if you are using a dual port wastegate w/ manual boost controller? I pulled my CV out after I installed my Tial and replaced the line coming from the AOS with a long hose with a 90 degree bend I picked up at AutoZone.

That's all I can think of...

LOL. Ok so I guess this wont be a one shot deal in and out. HA. Ok,... so I will see about replacing my vac hoses. I was going to check them anyway just to be safe. I do have a rough idle but i know for sure my ISV is not working right.

What is a venturi delete?

What is a CV? I have a manual boost controller. A Reliaboost. I dont know what kind of wastegate I have. Might be original. What of a dual port wastegate? What the are the gains? I would actually love to get some more of the wastegate sound. I love it. Would a dual port do this?

Whats a Tial and AOS? LOL. sorry dude im new to this stuff.

Thanks.

Ok,... did a quick search no,... i dont think I will be deleting the venturi seeing there are to many yes's and no's about it. If it was more of a sure thing then I would but it's not. CV = cycling valve. Gotcha.

Just wanna know about the wastegate.

Hey which Tial wastegate should I get? I did a search and im seeing 38mm here and there. I checked Tial site and there are several wastegates. Which one fits my 951?

I have a K26-8 tubro, guru chip, Reliaboost MBC, and 65# delco injectors.

What would be a good Tial wastegate for my car.

Can't help with the 951 specific suggestions.

Basic intake manifold WYAIT:
AOS (air oil separator===oil fill tube) seals as mentioned. 2 "O" rings top and bottom.
Get new non perforated screw clamps or fuel injector clamps for all the hoses under the manifold.
Gap the reference sensors. Put tape over the TDC bell housing hole!!!, you do not want to drop a loose nut in the clutch.
Clean the negative ground and the small grounds near by. If the negative cable cover is cracked or full of acid corrosion, this is a good time to change.
Check the condition of the "J" air intake boot. if the rubber is cracked, it may be the cause of your idle problem. (NA $45--turbo $127-yikes!)
Have your injectors cleaned at www.witchhunter.com or do a DIY cleaning--see tech section at top of page
You will need to buy injector seals and hats unless you send the injectors away to be cleaned.

It is a good time to replace the heater control valve if you see white deposits of leaking antifreeze.

When you take out the ICV/ISV (idle control valve/idle stabelizer valve) mark the direction of air flow. Do not put it in backwards. Here is a cleaning DIY-there are others -look at idle valve test and other stuff for your 951:
Home - Porsche 951 - texasblake.com

GL
John_AZ
1988 924S + 1987 924S

Awesome John. I will do. I will check some of this out. I know the PO did a lot of work on the car so im sure that a lot of this is already done. I would hate to have something done after it already being done. I have to find out how old the injectors are. They might not need a cleaning. Thanks a ton.

I need to know about the tial wastegate though. if I anyone knows about this please chime in. Which one do i need for my cars setup. 38mm? Which model. What is the advantage of using a tial compared to the stock? Thanks guys.

38mm is fine. The F38 is usually the most popular choice for the 951 group. You need to get adapter plates to mate it to the stock crossover / dump tube. There was talk about a group buy for the adapters in the turbo section, or just contact SpeedForceRacing.

The big advantage is the Tial is not a 20 year old wastegate. With that said, it allows far more accurate and consistent boost control. Probably the two most noticeable things you will experience are faster spool up and holding high boost in the high rpm range. You must run the wastegate in dual port to get those effects though. As a result you will need to change your boost controller to a bleeder type. Ball and spring controllers do not work with dual ports and while a bleeder type works in single port, it will never run right. Look at the LR black knob controller, probably one of the best bleeder types you can get short of going electronic.

BTW, i highly recommend deleting the hard pipes under the intake manifold. It cleans up alot of the stuff under there and if you are running a manual boost controller you are already not using 2 of the 3 lines. The venturi delete is also a very good idea.. you should replace these lines anyway as they are probably close to dry rotted if original. This also simplifies the vacuum system. It allows you to go from this,

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...b/IMG_5988.jpg

To this,

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...b/IMG_6019.jpg

Ok. Well I can definitely use a quicker spool up time. My boost actually holds pretty well all the way up to redline. I have never hit red line but I have come close.

I will see about removing the hard lines and I will look into the venturi delete kit. I know NOTHING about this so I will probably create another thread for this job because I know I will need your help.

One thing you said I am confused about. You said 38mm F38 is fine for the 951. You said I need to get rid of my ball and spring because it does not work in dual port mode. That I need to get a bleed type. But then you said "and while a bleeder type works in single port, it will never run right." The bleeder type will not run right in dual port mode? What does a decent electronic controller cost? I will check out the black knob controller though seeing that the electronic ones are probably stupid expensive.

So the Tial F38 will work in dual port mode? I have to see what that thing costs. Ok,... well, I will research and let you know what I end up doing. I have to see if the PO has done any of this already. Removing hoses, etc. I mknow he did a lto fo work. I just dont want to spend a ton of time looking for something that has been already removed.

What i meant by that is the Tial wastegate can be run in both single or dual port mode depending how you hook it up. A bleed type boost controller will work in either mode, but its extremely difficult to dial in the boost if you set it up in single port mode. I mention this because some people put in Tial wastegates and never run it in dual port mode and in that group some have alot of problems with dialing in the boost because they are running the black knob controller.

Ok so as long as I run the Tial in dual port I should have no troubles using the black knob right?

Well this is all a bit pricey. It will have a wait a bit. I have to first fix my truck which is my daily driver. After that I should be able to get all this stuff.

Oh by the way I was wondering if there was a controller where I could adjust the boost from inside the car. I know my car does great at 18psi according to the PO. Im only at 16psi right now and the car is stupid fast. My overal goal is to get my car pushing 300bhp. the PO said the car is pretty pushing 300 at 18psi. once I have all this done,... I think I will take it to get dynoed so I know for sure.

Also,... about the venturi delete. I heard mix stories about it. That its not safe. Whats the deal with that? That was kind of scaring me.

You can plumb any boost controller into the cabin, i have mine mounted in the glove box.

I would not be pushing 16-17psi on a 26/6, especially on pump gas. 18psi in my opinion is really pushing it. The turbo runs out of steam by 17psi and at 18 pounds your just pushing hot air as your egt's go through the roof. Torque will continue to go up but your HP will probably peak at around 280ish wheel.

Ive never read horror stories about the venturi delete.

I have a k26-8 turbo though. Do you still think 18psi is pushing it? So at 16 psi what do you think Im pushing at the wheels? I really want to try for 300. I have read that its not hard to accomplish. A couple of mods and your there kind of deal. I have a larger turbo so I would think that I am ahead of the stock k26-6 guys when it comes to pushing 300bhp. I have the larger 65# delco's. I plan on getting the Tial F38 with the LR blackknob. What do you think I'll be pushing hp wise with all this? I want ot psuh 300bhp safely. Or atleast as safe as possible. Do you think I should invest in a MAF? What do you think? It's not that im super power hungry,... it just seems that 300bhp is a good safe amount for a 951. A nice well rounded number too:) Its not that my car isnt fast enough already. I just like the idea of 300. I plan on replacing most of the body work with fiberglass too. so that will help get my car moving faster too.

The 26/8 will support 300whp at 16-17psi. Regardless of hotside on the turbo i would not push 17-18psi daily on the car, like i said not much margin for error on pump gas. Im pretty sure that turbo peaks at about 315-ish whp.

Ok so how far from 300bhp do you think I am with what I have set up now at 16psi? you know what,.. nevermind. After I do the wastegate and everything mentioned, I will ask about other safe mods to do. After allllll that I will just get the car dynoed. Thanks TD. Your awesome.