I cant believe I am going to ask this.

[sasquatch]

Do any of the oil stop leaks actually work for a leaking rear main?

I feel dirty even asking that question.

1987 944 NA
190,000 miles
Rotella T synthetic (someone is bound to ask)

The reason I am asking is that the rear main seal is leaking pretty bad. Yes, I know it is par for the course at 190k miles. The problem is that there is nothing else wrong. Clutch is fine, motor is fine, no other need at all for doing the HUGE job of getting to the rear main. I figure that at that mileage I would change the clutch at the same time, but it is not needed now and I really dont have the $$. I do all the labor myself, so that is free.

[ernie9944]

Sorry to say but adding oil stop leaks won't do nothing to it, if it's like you describe leaking pretty bad ,maybe somebody else migth have a different answer but usually you have to change the RMS nothing else will cure it.And don't forget the oil migth ruin your clutch.

[sasquatch]

I know anything I do would be a band-aid unless it is replaced correctly. I was just kind of hoping that something out there really worked to soften up old seals and give me a little more time.

[Techno Duck]

Switching to a regular dino oil of a heavier weight (15w or 20w50 max) may lessen the leak slightly, but its a band-aid fix at best. Just do the clutch and be done with it. Cost may be high, but factor another 190k miles of trouble free use .

[smokin_944]

Ernie and Jon are right. It sucks but there it is. Sorry about that Jay...

[sasquatch]

I figured that was my only option, but it never hurts to ask. Thanks guys.

Now to find the best deal on all the parts.

[John_AZ]

Originally Posted by sasquatch

Do any of the oil stop leaks actually work for a leaking rear main?

I feel dirty even asking that question.

1987 944 NA
190,000 miles
Rotella T synthetic (someone is bound to ask)

The reason I am asking is that the rear main seal is leaking pretty bad. Yes, I know it is par for the course at 190k miles. The problem is that there is nothing else wrong. Clutch is fine, motor is fine, no other need at all for doing the HUGE job of getting to the rear main. I figure that at that mileage I would change the clutch at the same time, but it is not needed now and I really dont have the $$. I do all the labor myself, so that is free.

Agree with above.

Your labor is free. Here are a few suggestions to save some money.

You could pick up one of those huge garage floor oil drip pans, put on a BIG oil diaper and make sure you stay off concrete driveways.

OR

Parts required:
Clutch disc? Do you still have the rubber center? You can get a disc for about $150-$200 if needed.
Pilot bearing, fork shaft needle bearings, TO guide tube, RMS, exhaust flange gaskets (2)----cheap stuff.
Get the FW resurfaced--$40-50.

About $300-$350. Less if the FW looks OK. You might be able to pick up a used spring clutch disc (parts car or recent wreck)

You can clean up the PP and repack the TO with grease.

Here is a great link on "clutch change on the cheap"
My clutch job, in pictures:

GL
John