Charles, that joint is junk.

And on the issue of injecting grease, while I applaud the creativity, the joints need to be disassembled and cleaned (old grease completely removed) before being repacked with fresh grease. Putting new grease over old grease (often of a different composition), is false economy and will cause your expensive CVs to wear out sooner.

Great. Thanks RM.

I bought 4 new joints:( Hey my shafts are all rusted and nasty looking. Would it be ok to sand the rust off and paint them for protection? I dont see why not but I mist ask just in case.

I got my new joints! Uhhhh they are tight! I tried twisting the inner of the joints and it wont budge. Is it suppose to be that tight?

Do I have to clean these before packing them with grease. They have a light coat of grease on them. Because of this I thought I should clean them.

Blast 'em with brake cleaner, pack with CV grease, and assemble. Oh yeah, and DRIVE!

Ok. I think I will mark them too now while they are brand new. Clarks-garage said to mark the orientation of the parts. I think I will dremel small alignment marks on them so that when it comes time to clean and repack them they will already be there for disassembly/ reassembly.

I hope I cant get my camera to work so I can finish taking pics,...

I disagree. In my kid's 951, the CV's were clicking badly, just one short step from complete toast. By "injecting" new grease into them, he's gotten a couple more years out of them - so far. His car (at the time) probably had 135K on it so I'm guessing they were original parts. He might have 150K on it now and it's still going fine, even with the humongous amount of extra horsepower his car has (around 350-400 RWHP). Not too shabby for maybe $10 of grease - 2 years and 15K+ miles.

Yeah, it would have been a lot better to tear them apart and completely clean and re-do them, but neither he or I was interested investing that much time.

A large part of owning an old Porsche is deciding "how much is enough" in terms of rebuiling/restoring our cars - because there's always a surplus of stuff that's either in imminent danger of breaking or is already broken.

If I win the Lotto tomorrow as I hope, then I can guarantee I'll immediately go entirely through my car and it will soon be new once more.

But absent the Lotto jackpot coming my way, then life will be full of compromises. Unless it's absolutely mission-critical (like say tires or brakes) then I'll probably continue on using the cheapest workable solution - even if it isn't the "proper" solution

If you can get a couple extra years or more out of CV's by re-greasing them, so be it. And then if they break, I can shell out the $130 for rebuilt ones (which actually are rather cheap) ... 1986 Porsche 944 CV Half Shaft/Axle Shaft | O'Reilly Auto Parts

I will have to add one qualification, and that is if you're tracking your car, all bets are off, because then the definition of "mission-critical" can change a fair bit.

But otherwise, I'm looking at best bang for the buck...

:)

No offense, Mike, but the time investment is pretty damn small. I had a joint let go once on my 914. . .calling and waiting for a tow truck took more time and money than cleaning and repacking the joints. . .

Additionally, if you are really into getting the most mileage out of your CVs, rotating them from position to position will allow them to outlast the car. That is what we call "bank for the buck". . .

Like gramma always said, the lazy man works twice as hard!

;)

I totally agree. It doesnt really take that much time at all. I was kind of putting it off because a few members made it out to be a nightmare but it was actually pretty easy. Messy but easy.

The joints in my opinion looked like garbage. I dont really like the idea of doing stuff to just get by, especially with my car. I wanted to just get by right now because I have a lot of work to do on my truck. After my truck I would of bought new ones because I dont like uncertainty. I bought new so now I will never have to worry about them. I will rototate them regularly and clean and regrease. My new ones will never look like the ones i pulled from the car.

The boots I pulled from the car are completely damaged free. it look slike the owner replaced the boots but never cleaned and repacked the joints. There was hardly any grease in there at all. when I dismantled the cv joints they literally fell apart. The new ones are tight as hell. very much new.

I am hoping to get some better pictures of the new ones and the used ones.

Anyone want the boots I pulled from my car? No damage whatsoever. $2 each plus shipping. I would hate to just throw them away.

Does it matter which way I install these new joints? I havent had to chance to see if there were instructions. lol.

Ok 2 questions here. By flipping the cv joint do I understand correctly that The cv Joints are cleaned/greased and installed exactly as they were and Flip the axel so that the side that was once connected to the transmission is now connected to the tire? Or are just the cv Joints flipped as if it were a coin and the head and tails part of the coin were flipped?

Question 2

In this pic that Charles took Is the Line Groove around the outside of the cv supposed to face away from the cv boot like in the picture or the oposite way and face toward the cv boot?http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1270496103.jpg

I am pretty sure the groove mark is for orientational purposes. Do not flip them like a coin. Take the joints off and clean them good. I wouldnt dismantle them fully. Risk of the bearing popping out and losing order is high.

Cleaning them all good and install them on the shaft the same way you found them. Then just swap the whole CV assembly from left to right and right to left. Keeping the tire joints with tire joints and tranny joints with tranny joints.