Control Arm Removal Comparison - Which is better?

[benzor]

So I'm doing a little research on replacing my left control arm on an 86 NA. I had the right one done at the garage last year to the tune of $350, so I'm going to try to do the other myself.

But it seems there are two methods out there.

Clark's (Clark's Garage Home Page) says to remove the eccentric bolt at the back, whereas Texas Blake (Control Arms - Porsche 951 - www.texasblake.com) says to remove the bushing assembly, theoretically leaving the geometry in place. I'd prefer to avoid an alignment, and it seems like removing the bushing assembly gives me a better chance than marking the eccentric bolt. Any thoughts?

Also, I've had problems in the past with tie rods getting stuck, and needing heat and tons of force to get them off. Has anybody run into this with the ball joints? I do my work on the street in front of my house, so its hard to 'pause' the project to go buy a torch. Should have got a house with a flat driveway!

Thanks!

[Techno Duck]

The only change in alignment when you remove the arm is caster really. Toe can change also, but can be avoided by making a scribe where the caster block mounts to the body (there is some side to side play) and remove the control arm and caster block as all one piece.

Doing it this way you would be able to preserve the alignment..even then caster is not a huge deal if its off a little bit, eye balling it is fine in my opinion.

For the tie rods, a pickle fork works very well but will probably damage the boots. I have found pullers like these at Pepboys and your other local auto stores. This tool has never failed to get a tie rod off and does not damage anything. Just be very careful (wear eye protection) as you will probably be surprised how much force it takes to get the tie rod end out of the spindle sometimes.



To get the ball joint out of the spindle, get a small chisel and tap it inbetween the pin pinch on the spindle to spread it slightly. This will let the balljoint pin slide in and out easily.

Replacing the arms is very easy.. off the top of my head you will need mostly 17 and 19mm sockets / wrenches. Be careful when retorquing the caster block to body bolts, the torque value is not very high on them and are easy to strip.

[benzor]

Thanks Techno Duck.

Just to clarify the terminology - you used a couple words I'm not familiar with. I understand caster the angle, but you also used it like a part the control arm attaches to. Is the caster block the same as that rear bushing I was referring to? If not, where is it?

Where is the 'pin pinch' on the control arm? Did you mean tapping the chisel between the horizontal surfaces on the the control and the spindle?

Thanks for the pic of the ball joint - I had used both the pickle fork and the 'ball joint puller' (as I believe that's called), but it failed by slipping off the sides (it's dependent on a small area on the bottom), hence torching.

[my1st911]

Why would you remove the tie rod ti get a lower control arm off. And if you desie to remove the tie rod, take off the nu, and hit the area around the tie rod stud with a big hammer. it will drop right out. Cpl good smacks

[Techno Duck]

Yes, the caster block is essentially the rear bushing on the control arm.

The pinch i am referring to is the 'clamp' area where the ball joint pin slides into the spindle.