I think something broke

[westwind999]

I need a bit of help trying to figure out what happened.

My 1987 944s has no connection somewhere between the engine and the wheels. I jacked it up and had a look. What I found so far it it seems the transmission is OK. The coupling at the transmission appears to be connected and when I put it in gear and turn a rear wheel the drive shaft turns.

Next step, I looked at the clutch. I removed the starter and the cover at the front of the flywheel. I suspected that the center of the clutch may have failed so I was expecting to see some rubber chunks but there doesn't seem to be any. What I did find behind the cover is some metal bits stuck between the housing and the flywheel.

Any ideas what happened?

[Tishabet]

With the car running, put the car in third gear and let out the clutch...does your speedo read anything?

[westwind999]

I'm reluctant to start it again based on what I saw so far. What would you think 3rd gear would indicate? Could I jack up the rear wheel and turn it while in third?

It didn't make noise unless I let the clutch out, before I parked it. It sounded like a bucket of bolts when I did. Sounded like it was in the clutch area.

[krystar]

could it be a torq tube bearing?

i don't know how you're determining the driveshaft is turning...caues u can't see the driveshaft/torq tube since it's inside the carrier.

[944 Ecology]

1) Jack up the rear of the car as high as you can, using jackstands.

2) Remove the plastic cover at the rear of the torque tube. The cover is large enough to put your hand it.

3) Locate the coupler (painted grey, with a couple of bolts. Try and turn it with the car in first gear, engine off, clutch pedal up.

4) If the coupler does not turn, your clutch is OK. Rotate each of the rear wheels to make sure that it is attached to the output flange through the CV joints.

5) Leave the car in first gear. Depress the clutch pedal. Use a broomstick against the back of the driver seat to keep it depressed. Try to turn the coupler. It should turn easily.

6) One or both of the wheels should turn slowly. If not, you may have a broken ring and pinion. Drain the transaxle fluid and look for shiny bits of expensive metal.

[westwind999]

Yes, I did the steps above, I can see the coupling turning when the back is jacked up. I removed the big plug at the transmission, in gear, clutch out, it turns easily

[944 Ecology]

Bad clutch

[westwind999]

What is this in the red circle?

The picture is from the oil pan side with the steel cover removed.

[Shifter]

That is one of the pegs the reference sensors use to read the position of the crank. There should be two of them on an 87.

[westwind999]

How likely is it that a spring center clutch would break? I've seen a lot of post about the rubber ones failing but there is usually chunks of rubber visible. The clutch was replaced not long before I bought the car, around 10,000 miles ago.

[rb101]

I've seen the splines shear off of the clutch disk on a 996 before.

[westwind999]

Would it be wise to order a CenterForce dual friction or something else a bit more durable since I don't really want to do this again in another 10,000 miles?

[westwind999]

So here are 3 possible choices, Centerforce Dual Friction or Sachs Clutch kit at about $650 each or just a Sachs Friction Plate for $350. I think there is also a Centerforce standard clutch but I don't see it on Pelican, maybe it's not very good but I've seen it advertised for a little more than just the Sachs Friction Plate.

What are the pros and cons with the various choices? Is there much likely hood that the pressure plate is bad too? Is the pressure plate likely to fail seeing as it's supposed to be fairly new (along with the throw out bearing)? Should I replace the hydraulics too since I'm in there? (it looks original)

Just trying to get my head wrapped around how much to throw at it.

[westwind999]

I planning to start tearing into this thing this week. I found some 12 point bits locally after going to a few different places so I think I'm ready.

I went through my receipts and found that the previous clutch plate was 94411601204. Pelican states that it was replaced by a different number. It was about 11 yrs old but only a few miles on it. Does this mean it's probably the rubber one?

Seems like I can just get away with replacing the friction plate since everything else is fairly new.

[Grandad#3]

Hello westwind, You won't know what all you will need until you get the clutch out and inspect all componets, disk, press. plate, fork, T/O bearing and just for the heck of it, replace the Rear Main Seal. Now is the time to also have the flywheel resurfaced. After you complete the job, you sure don't want to go back in for a looonnngggg time. This will also be the time to clean that grungy area. Clutch master, line and slave cylinder is your call. Me, I'd replace it all, but I hate getting under a car.

Cheers,
Larry