most cost effective upgrade for the na

[gixer02]

With my 83 na I want to know what are some things that make a noticible increase in handling without going overboard on the expences.(if my goal is for performance on de and autocross for fun-not hardcore competition) Some things I can think of are stripping out interior stuff like the back seats, spare tire ect.. taking out the AC, adding fiberglass hood. But what I am not sure of is 1.How much of a difference do upgraded spring coils make? 2 How much difference do sway bars make 3. What is the extent of improvement with say... Bilstein shocks, and out of all of those what is the most for your buck... I'm inclined to say upgraded shocks or the sway bar but I'm not sure. Thanks for any input and any ideas you have

Pat

[gixer02]

one thing I forgot to add is that I want to do everything slowly as I gain driving experience because as is I don't have the skill to drive it at 100% of its capabilities... and thanks again for any info

Pat

[eimkeith]

skip all that noise and lower the rear to level the door sills, then get the car corner balanced and a good four wheel alignment.

then drive,drive,drive.

[eimkeith]

BUT: struts/shocks are the most important of your list.

[Z-man]

Word of caution:
When lowering a 944, stress is put on the front A-arms. If they get too stressed, they crack, and if not taken care of, they WILL cause catostrophic damage: it will drop and take the whole front side of your car with it!

As far as upping the performance: first, grasshopper: work on your own skills. It is more important to become a better driver than to drive a better car! Do a year or two of autox before you play with your car's suspesion. (That will keep you in stock classes!) You won't 'out-drive' your car's suspension.

Next: sway bars/strut tower braces and as mentioned before, struts/shocks are your best bet. I've also heard that swapping your rear torsion bars out with coil-overs can help, but that's a lot of work.

[thamlin000]

Originally posted by Z-man
Word of caution:
When lowering a 944, stress is put on the front A-arms. If they get too stressed, they crack, and if not taken care of, they WILL cause catostrophic damage: it will drop and take the whole front side of your car with it!

I agree with the stress put on the A-arms but I don't think the steel A-arms crack on early 944s. The steel A-arms can bend or deform under stress where as the aluminum A-arms (used on 85.5+ 944s) can crack under stress.

I've read this on this bbs a while ago.

I could be wrong. Anyone care to expand?

[fty]

how do you lower the rear?

[porscheboi928s/c944t/n]

DRIVER.... IS THE MOST COST EFFECTIVE

[Z-man]

Originally posted by thamlin000


I agree with the stress put on the A-arms but I don't think the steel A-arms crack on early 944s. The steel A-arms can bend or deform under stress where as the aluminum A-arms (used on 85.5+ 944s) can crack under stress.

I've read this on this bbs a while ago.

I could be wrong. Anyone care to expand?

Oops: I didn't realize it was a pre 85.5 (yeah: helps to READ the post better!)

It is the 85.5 and up A-arms that get the stress fractures. But lowering even an older 944 will cause more stress on the A-arms, like thamlin said.

I'd be careful, especially if you plan on doing DE or autox, even if it's "just for fun."
-Z.

[eimkeith]

Right - you want to maintain 13" from center of front wheel to top of fender arch, as a general rule. HOWEVER, I suggested lowering the REAR to LEVEL the car, not lowering the front.

You can achieve that much lowering by adjusting the eccentrics on the trailing arms.

[eimkeith]

Also, coil overs are superior to T-bars in adjustability only, both perform well.

AND, the failure is of the balljoint (associated with lowering the front) The balljoint binds at full compression and eventually cracks the cup it rides in and blam, car on the ground...

Lots of racers run it low, but have FREQUENT checks...

Better is to stick to the 13" rule.