NO heat after rebuild

[matty89]

Timing belt failed , Fixed problem with valves and 2 lifters

Now i put everythinkg back on and i bleed my Coolant and still no heat ( Heat worked before i did the head job ! )? anything to do with some vacuums? didnt check yet its night so No sight for little vaccums ! thnx ! all check clarks tomorrow my thermostat opens , fans work and started , Just no Heat.. lol im the one who gets all these problems .... all i wanted to do is drive the car 2day..

[KEV951]

if your sure your installed everything correctly with the vacuume lines, and your heater valve was good before the rebuilt head, and you have no leaks, you either have a bad water pump (seldom case), failure with the heater valve itself, or air / air pockets in the cooling system (almost always the case) that needs to be bled out. Did you properly bleed the system prior to starting ? You can do this by starting the car with the front end jacked way up , heater valve on hot and coolant full with cap off and let the engine rpm around 2500 to help get the air pocket up and out, or, you can do the same and add a funnel adaptor to fill even higher and let the cooling system cycle with the cap off , or another way is , you can pressurize the cooling system with a pressure tester before you start it and crack the bleeder screw , let air and coolant excape , and repeat about 10 to 20 times while always making sure the coolant level is at max or even slightly above. Air pockets can get trapped anywhere they want to, in the block , the radiator, the heater core, the cylinder head , and so on. Just my 2 bits, Good luck!

[matty89]

i bleeded all the air out ! no heat ? wtf the hose on top of the exhausts are hot..... probly those vacuums on the hvac i switched them and still no heat ? ideas?

[kfray]

There could still be air trapped in the heater.

[JonA]

If your engine is running at normal temp and not overheating, take it for a drive. I found that if you get the rpm's up it helps push the air out of the heater and will sometimes get circulation going to it. Worked for me.
good luck.

Jon

[matty89]

now im having a strap NOise or a strap robbing on the plastic of the timing covers or something .... or its my water pump it has a little play.... what aday still isnt in my satisfaction specs..

[KEV951]

what? all i got is you have some play in the water pump and rubbing noise on timing cover, any updates?

[89-944NA]

matty, on your other post we all advised you that you needed to change that water pump, there should be no play in the shaft...you are looking at potential disaster. If the pump just fails it's not so bad, as long as you don't overheat it.

If it overheats, you are looking at most likely having the head milled, because they tend to warp when overheated. If the water pump freezes, and causes the balance shaft belt to break, you are lookng at the potential of that belt taking out the cam belt, and you are right back to doing the valves again.

It's not really a good situation driving it like that kinda like ENGINE ROULETTE.

[manydubs]

I dont understand why you took the time to rebuild the head from a broken T-belt and did not replace the waterpump while in there.

Everything is apart at that point.

Please explain

[KEV951]

+1 many dubs

[968rz]

Beyond the fact you didn't replace the WP, when you bleed the system make sure you have the cabin heat moved to HOT with the fan off (not defrost/demist). That will remove any air in the heater core.

[matty89]

the heat problem is resolved ! and the water pump is new timing belt replacement !

[ernie9944]

Originally Posted by matty89

the heat problem is resolved ! and the water pump is new timing belt replacement !

Ok if I understand well, you got the heating problem solve & you did install a new WP & your timing belt is new & replace so everything is (A one),the reason I'm asking is, I've been following some of your posts on your head rebuilt & other problems that came up while you did the job & they are very confusing.