Bellhousing and torque tube issues

[c5pilot]

Well I have a track event this coming weekend and my '83 decided to leak from the rear main seal. So I am scrambling to correct that as well as everything else while I am in there. Two issues I am stuck on :
1) The upper drivers side bolt on the bellhousing is hard to get at and I could not budge it. What's the trick to get this one off?
2) My torque tube has been making the coffee grinder sound when I let off the gas so I thought I would rebuild it also. After getting it off and spinning the driveshaft the bearings are quiet. Is that a proper test, is a bearing still bad ?

Thanks

[bazar01]

Originally Posted by c5pilot

Well I have a track event this coming weekend and my '83 decided to leak from the rear main seal. So I am scrambling to correct that as well as everything else while I am in there. Two issues I am stuck on :
1) The upper drivers side bolt on the bellhousing is hard to get at and I could not budge it. What's the trick to get this one off?
2) My torque tube has been making the coffee grinder sound when I let off the gas so I thought I would rebuild it also. After getting it off and spinning the driveshaft the bearings are quiet. Is that a proper test, is a bearing still bad ?

Thanks

1. With the torque tube out of the way, you can drop the bell housing end of the engine and gain more space up there.
2. Grinding noises on decel is not a TT bearing issue, it is more like a transaxle pinion bearing issue.

[ernie9944]

BTW if not done yet you should notch the bell housing ,will save you a lot of hassle.

[John_AZ]

Originally Posted by c5pilot

1) The upper drivers side bolt on the bellhousing is hard to get at and I could not budge it. What's the trick to get this one off?

2) My torque tube has been making the coffee grinder sound when I let off the gas so I thought I would rebuild it also. After getting it off and spinning the driveshaft the bearings are quiet. Is that a proper test, is a bearing still bad ?

Thanks

#1

Either get 2 feet of extensions an a universal with socket or get the correct universal socket.



#2
There are 4 bearings inside the TT.
Here is the procedure---not a 2 hour job...Many DIYs in the forums.

Torque Tube Removal, Rebuilding, and Installation

3,4,5,6,7 Oil the RMS lips and crank shaft or the RMS will burn out.

GL
John

[c5pilot]

I think lowering the engine will help me out. I wondered why it needed supporting anyway when it should be able to sit on the crossmember just fine. No need to notch bell housing as the sensors dont scare me anymore. I can do that in 15-20 mins now I have done it so much. Rachet head socket wrench did the trick for me. Transaxle pinion bearing sounds like no fun. Aren't there about three in there ? Any way to verify while I have it out ? I talked to a local P-car shop and he said the TT sounded ok to him also and thought it was likely a clutch bearing.

[mikepellegrini]

Originally Posted by c5pilot

I think lowering the engine will help me out. I wondered why it needed supporting anyway when it should be able to sit on the crossmember just fine. No need to notch bell housing as the sensors dont scare me anymore. I can do that in 15-20 mins now I have done it so much. Rachet head socket wrench did the trick for me. Transaxle pinion bearing sounds like no fun. Aren't there about three in there ? Any way to verify while I have it out ? I talked to a local P-car shop and he said the TT sounded ok to him also and thought it was likely a clutch bearing.

You hit the nail on the head. Lowering the engine a bit will make the bolt accessible.

Notching the bellhousing is a really good idea, and it'll make it easier to do the clutch in the future. It'll save at least that 15-20 minutes, unless of course a sensor gets stuck, cause then pulling the buggers out can take a lonnnnngggg time... Notch it - you won't be sorry.

[c5pilot]

Yeah I hink I will take the time to do that. Should not take long to notch. One of the PP bolts stripped , this car has fought me all he way. I guess I have to drill the head off. Joy.

[John_AZ]

I "notched" the bell housing on my '87.

I decided not to on my '88 after I found the TSB below. I do not have any hard start symptoms on either car. The "sheilding sleeve" was designed to prevent starter electromagnetic interference.

The preferred design is to have/keep the "holes" and not the slot. YMMV --Your choice.

S2 and 968 speed reference sensor question

GL
John

[c5pilot]

Did not know that John thanks. I thought later cars had the notch anyway ? So for those that notched is anyone having issues John mentioned ?