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Banned
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 683
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rough idle with a/c on, refuses to take more charge
i broke down and finally just used some stopleak w/ oil and red dye plus r-134a to seal whatever leak i had in my a/c system, seems to be working great. hasn't lost any pressure all day. i'm going to preface this by saying i know many people don't recommend using stop leak but i had basically written off the whole a/c system as trashed so even if it ruins my a/c system i honestly do not care at this point - i'll go back to riding with the top out/windows down and just do the a/c delete.
the two issues im running into are the car idles very rough with the a/c on, just bought a new battery (which was known to be bad) and idle is still rough with a/c on. the car is idling rough enough to vibrate the front clip. i can also feel the vibration in the clutch pedal when pulling out from a stop. any idea on causes? i already plan to try and test the alternator tomorrow. i did notice the pully on the compressor seems to have some movement in it at idle but the whole engine is shaking pretty good so it might not really be the pully. there is no real vibration of the pully or engine once i get the revs up. second problem, the temp was about ~84degrees F this evening when i tried to put another can in to bring up the pressure to the proper level, and even with two full cans in the car the pressure still is just BARELY touching the recommended "window" of pressure range on my gauge. i don't have the equipment to draw down a vacuum so i DO know i'm doing this the halfass way but how i see it i was planning on having to buy a compressor/whatever else bs was leaking so any type of function i can get out of the system for the time being is a bonus to me. any ideas folks? thanks in advance. ![]() |
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Banned
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 683
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after looking into the figures, i'm about three ounces short on my 134 charge having two cans 12oz =24oz total charge. explains the pressure still reading a bit low. still confused about the idle, also wondering if someone can show me a picture of where the heater core vacuum valve is located? it's not as cool as it should be and i'm thinking the heater core is stuck open.
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Redline Racer
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,444
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Check your grounds and battery connections, especially the primary supply wires that feed the fuse box. The cooling fans draw alot of power and I've noticed mine will roughen up the idle when they come on, probably dropping the voltage going to the DME somehow.
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1987 silver 924S made it to 225k mi! Sent to the big garage in the sky |
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Proprietoristicly Refined
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: ~Carefree Highway~
Posts: 5,833
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Quote:
Another cause is bad heater flap clips.... 944 Heater Fix I'll pass on the AC guesses. Bad idle with the AC on could be a dirty ICV (piston not moving freely). Try a couple shots of Gumout Fuel Injection and Throttle Body cleaner directly into the valve a couple times. Could be a small vacuum leak. Could be a dirty TB or worn TB "O" rings. Home has a $20 kit to rebuild the TB. Could be.................. GL John
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1988 924S, 85,750K ..+ 1987 924S, 154K DD (+15K est. bad odo) |
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