I purchased a 1983 last year for my son that the PO could not start. Turned out to be a common problem, ignition switch.

Quick easy test, turn the ignition switch on but do not try to start. Check the ignition coil for 12 volts to ground, if you don't, it's the switch. If you have the voltage then try and start the engine. Do not turn the ignition switch off when you release the key, leave it turned on, then check again for voltage at the coil. I fould that I would have voltage if I turned it on, but would loose it when I attempted to start.

Drove me nuts for a couple of days, tried everything. O-scoped the sensors, checked wiring, looked for tach bounce, fuel pump, DME (PO supplied that), grounds, coil, relays and anything else that I could think of to look. Worked for me, costs nothing to try.

Good luck.

Hello to all again, got busy and had to wait on a new dme to show up. So now its time for the ground breaking news........... abra ca dab ra! ho cus pokus! Well dang so magic and new dme did not change a darn thing. Still nothing, no tach, no fuel pump, no light from noid. Its sad to say but i am starting to laugh about it alot since that atleast puts a smile on my face. Anyway anyone else with same problems I will say a prayer for u and for myself.

Its mad at you for putting her away for so long. Pics?

lol yea you have a hell of an angle lol i will agree with ya and that is a good point on pics i will go and take some right now and will attempt to load on this new computer.

Well it is time for the update. Have to order another sensor either speed or ref. One of my new ones must have been damaged in shipping. So after running the the test for the dme and also at the sensor it just made it offical. All problems that i was having lead to both sensors. So if your have been reading this all the way through, word to the wise not only buy both sensors but take the time to ohm them out before installing them. Also on the 83 and 84 model there is no need for checking clearance gap since at least my bracket does not adjust. So when another new sensor gets here she should fire. SHOULD I JUST KNOW IT. Thanks to all for your info in all the forums. Just cant say it enuff

Its alive and running like a champ. So to all having no start problems and have been reading this take note. If you have an idea that one of your sensors are bad replace both, buy from ebay very cheap. After install run dme check through the dme harness as per ECUdotors.com, it was the best and fastest test so far to check everything running into and out of dme. Also Thanks to all of you again for support and goerge and Jose at ecu doctors. Also i now have all my hair back even in the hard to reach areas lmao.

Glad it is running like a champ.

I found this ECU tutoral, are there others?

How to test a Porsche 944 RPM and TDC sensor

John

Thats the correct one. Also there is a full harness pin test, Calif cars included, ex would be pin 10 is absent for non calif cars. Thankyou for posting the link John_AZ.

Do you have a full harness pin test from ECUDoctors in PDF or can you scan the info and post it?

I have this one:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/5676317-post5.html

Thanks
John

Great job Thats it! the one you posted John. Thats the test. For me atleast trying to review some of the other tests were alittle hard to understand, at times since at that time i was not understanding the entire way the system worked on the car. I have used a scope and everything else i could get my hands on still no start and no data to prove what was wrong. So only thing to do was order a new dme. Now have 2 working DME's. Turns out my new ref sensor was totally dead. I just hope this info helps some folks out. All you need is a mulitimeter....

Do the timing belt an balance belt before it breaks and off comes the head.