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Join Date: Sep 2001
Posts: 244
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A round of questions...(problems/issues)

Previously, when I disabled the idle stabilizer I could set the idle
wherever it belonged. Now, when I disable the idle stabilizer and I play
with the idle screw I can't get the idle to come up to where it should be. I
didn't check it on the tach, but I would estimate its sitting around 600rpm
with the idle screw (recently replaced, less than 2 months) almost fully
backed out. I've always heard a hissing sound coming from under the hood,
mech's have told me its normal. It comes from the AFM area (no questioning
that). When I tighten down the idle screw pretty much all the way, the car
is close to stalling...but doesn't.
Second, I pulled a vac on the AC system (10 mins with a compressor powered
vacum pump) and then tried to charge the system. Engine running, AC on max
can upright (tried upside down, though upright is the right way from what
I've read)...it wouldn't pull the refrigerant out...
What's going on? I'm tempted to let a mech/AC shop figure it out.

thanks,
Adrial

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'89 951
Alpine White, Black Leather
Old 04-03-2002, 01:07 PM
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Adrial,

You might want to adjust the throttle stop screw to open the butterfly a little bit. This might also affect the trottle switch & you might have to take the whole throttle body off to move it to make the throttle closed contacts.


drew1
Old 04-03-2002, 04:01 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Aspen CO US
Posts: 16,054
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Which A/C recharge port are you using? Second, you may have a bad expansion valve that is blocking the system off.
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1980 911 SC
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Old 04-03-2002, 04:11 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Kansas,USA
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You didn't say if you were just topping off or you had the system apart. Personally, I would use a good mechanical vaccume pump and use a manifold gauge. Those cheap charging kits suck, they often leak at the fittings and fail to push the schrader core. A manifold gauge set lets you leak test the system. By pulling the system into a deep vaccume and closing the mainfold you can watch the gauge for a rise in pressure indicating a leak. You need to get down to (approximatly) 30Hg to really remove moisture from the system. I.E. if it was opened or flat on freon. Water and freon make acid!(read as leaks get bigger faster!) Be sure you are using the suction port to add freon. The high side port on an almost full system can blow a can apart! (tech's call em' bomb cans for a reason!) Don't over charge! More is not better! Cooling peformance will drop off and compressor power usage will increse.

I will now climb off my soap box and apoligize for the speech and long length. I'd be more than happy to help anyone in the area with their P-car. I have the tools and no charge of course.

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Old 04-03-2002, 06:48 PM
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