Ignition problem

somaa62008 · 12-17-2011, 06:15 AM

Hi guys its me again with a 924 2.0 engine my car was standing 8 years before i bought it , means i had to change almost everything !!!
If some one can help me if i turn the ignition on the car runs even i press the pedal revs up and still runs but as soon as i release the key the car stops !! So i changed the ignition switch but still dose the same ! what else responsible for the ignition system or cutting the power?
Can be the ignition unit at the front of the car behind the light ? how can i test it ? only resistance test? or it just needs a good clean on the wires whats connect to the ignition switch? please help me i know i am not too far

924RACR · 12-18-2011, 04:37 AM

Try hotwiring it - that'll rule out the ignition switch for sure. Was the replacement new?

somaa62008 · 12-18-2011, 11:38 AM

Yes it was new ! and i find a wired thing ! for me

on the distributor cap or just under the clips i have a free connection bit nothing attached with!! maybe the earth missing from there? So just where is the clips to lock the distributor cap in position there is a free connection what going is there ?

somaa62008 · 12-24-2011, 05:19 AM

Looks like the starter was just spin the engine but it dosent want to fire up itself ... i will going to check the cold valve and the warm up regulator... but if anyone knows what makes the car dot start ?
Pump good
Relay good
Accumulator good
new fuel filter
new ign switch
new spark plugs
timing good

Cold vale can cause maybe this trouble ?
So the car runs for 1 sec and stops! if i press some gas revs up even but dosent stay run..
Funny eh? the air filter system tight no air leaks, and should be pressure if re acting when i press the pedal i worry about the temp sensor on the water hose behind the engine and the other temp sender cause they dont show sign of any resistance (continuity) or only gets when messure temp?

kdjones2000 · kdjones2000's Garage

Check your wiring to the coil.

When the starter is engaged the coil gets a full 12V directly from the starter. When you release the key, that power is lost. If you don't have the correct wiring for normal operation, then you won't keep power to the coil and the engine will die.

I would check your fuel pump relay, as that also controls power to the coil.

Good luck, Keith

somaa62008 · 12-25-2011, 08:27 AM

What i find today.. the coil dosent have the right voltage by the manual each connection on the coil jumped with ground should shows at least 5V or more when ign on ! on my its 1.3V but each side same !! whats that means. and i was testing the ignition unit box, and it shows also not the correct voltage ! by disconnect the big plug and jumped the station 1 with ground should shows the same amount as the battery but is only 0.04v
What can cause this ? !! i checked the cable lot under the dashboard all the way trough under and i see no damage rust or damage on the cabel lot!! what can be wrong?

kdjones2000 · kdjones2000's Garage

I would re-check your ignition switch and make sure that track #30 has power when your key is in the ON position.

Also, check your fuse box and test your fuel pump relay very carefully.

Sounds like the problem is in that area.

Good luck, Keith

somaa62008 · 12-30-2011, 10:29 AM

Hi again i am not finished the full check but i find a few thing i had NO EARTH connection at the distributor !! i made one but still the same ...
i have no ballast resistors both side of the behind the coil ! is that really necessary?
and its a bit weird that the engine running from the starter..
My high lead from the distributor to the coil is 1KOhm it says on it but when i checked with dmm it shows more over 2KOhm ... i am sure i am close to find the thing!! but it still not fully clear for me how dose it works..
where should i check if it gets the + and - when is ignition on ?!
at the switch 15 is the + for the starter? 30 is + .. 50 is the earth ?!!
when i checked the continuity by this diagram were all good on the switch as on the control unit... i don't understand what is wrong, my fuel relay is brand new as my ign switch. but i have no ballast things behind the coil on the earth bolts ...

kdjones2000 · kdjones2000's Garage

Make sure that you have 12V at the terminal that *should* be connected to those ballast resistors when the key is in the Run position.

The diagram is showing a classic inductive coupling ignition setup - you need those ballast resistors to make it work correctly, but I don't think that is your current problem. If your resistors are gone as you say, then see if you have 12V at the coil #15 terminal.

You are chasing resistance along the high voltage path. Worry instead about the 12V circuit and make sure that things are correct, or fix them if they are not.

Good luck, Keith

somaa62008 · 01-03-2012, 01:48 AM

So i checked the #15 on the coil and the ground and it gives a reading about 0.14V with a key on the run position.. so what can cause this what should i change ?
Is the wiring damaged at some point or one of the unit loses the voltage and doesn't send it over to the next... but as i wrote my starter works and occasionally i check the sparks they are wet and dry and it sounds like firring when starter position on... what should i do next ?
do i have to change the wires?

somaa62008 · 01-23-2012, 09:37 AM

Hi i cleaned my all fuse board and i still can find the reason why i have very low voltage at the ign. coil. where should i look for the problem? i just read that the ign box should make a strange noise when ign on my one doesn't do anything, can be my problem there? but my starter works !! but my spark plugs are black with a lot deposit on it but dry!! it means poor spark isn't it?
And my manuals diagrams are totally useless i don't know how but the wires are not the described colors, not all matches the book...