Does this stuff work?
 

Dura-Seal: Oil Stop Leak, Worlds Most Trusted Engine Oil Stop-Leak

I got a leak from my oil pan. I was wondering if this could be a temp fix till I get the $$$ to get it repaired?

Anyone ever try this method?

They got a specific blend for 4 cylinder Porsches.

Dura-Seal Head Gasket Sealers: Porsche 4 Cyl.

Snake oil - if you have a leak it should be corrected properly.

If you use something like stop leak (stop leak = stop flow), how can you be sure it doesn't block flow to areas that should have flow? No different that using stop leak in your radiator - gums everything up and then you have an even bigger job to face when you do decide to fix the problem correctly.

If you do decide to go this route, please post back and let everyone know what your results were, I am sure I am not the only one who would like to know the results - rarely do I believe the claims of "As seen on TV" advertisements.

I understand that synthetic motor oil has an additive that swells the seals and prevents leaks - that is why 0 grade and 5 grade oils don't leak out of the engines anymore like they did 10 years ago... anything 'stronger' than that can only be the last stage before you visit the wrecker's...

They dont leak like they used to because of different type of seals..

Ive seen more sludged up, nasty as hell engines running synthetic oil than just regular old oil. I will never run synthetic.

Looks like snake oil. Post results ^^

+ 1...like the old saying say's..if it's to good to be true...well you know the rest....

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I wouldn't reccomend usng it either. Unless it is leaking out faster than you can pour it in, I would look past the obvious oily mess on the floor (spread kitty litter down and park over that), check oil levels regularly, and just add as necessary until you get to repair it.

Say what? :eek:
Please xpand on your experiences...
I'm considering a switch from Rotella dino to Rotella synth this winter..

Just one person's opinion here (mine), but I'm a firm beleiver in synthetic. From new I've been using it. I removed my oil pan recently (90k miles) due to a degraded pan gasket and this is all I saw (see pix)... there was negligible rod bearing wear, but I replaced them anyway.
Sent my cam-box to a seasoned/veteran Porsche Tech a year or so ago. Again minimal wear on internals.

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Cool.. what visc of Mobil1?
5w-50?

15/50

I've read many people's accounts of how they switched from a low visc synthetic to a higher visc dino and all leaks stopped and oil pressure returned to where it is meant to be. Unless you drive in freezing conditions regularly, a low visc 0w/30 - 5w/40 synthetic isn't the best for our motors.

I don't think I'll be using that stuff. I was hoping someone might of used it before, and I'm sure as hell don't want to be the "Lab Rat".

I got an 85.1 as my daily driver(just got my AC fixed :-D). This leak is with my 86 951. I'll try a thicker oil and see if that helps.

Ive just seen cars in shops, and cars ive worked on for people that have been sludged up (They had regular mantinence)

Guest, you said you got your AC fixed.. You running r12 or 134?

I'd probably use this first:

http://www.amazon.com/ATP-AT-205-Re-Seal-Stops-Bottle/dp/B000NVW1LM

lower viscosity is always better, even if you loose pressure.

flow provides lubrication, not pressure. this is also why synthetic is always superior to dino oil, it is always thinner, even given the same rating as dino oil. this is because it is made with a base thin oil, and designed to handle heat, rather then made from a thick oil, with low temp thinners in it.

YES!
A new oil thread! ;)

I've been waiting weeks...!

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in my experience there is the science ... vs old people.

the science is actually pretty simple, just lots of people dont like to listen to it.