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clutch line bleeding problem
I rebuilt the clutch cylinder underneath the master cylinder. And the the one next to the starter. I even had to replace the hose that goes from the steel line down to the cylinder by the starter.
So I have tried to bleed the line from underneath the car by pumping the clutch pedal. (didn't work) Then I saw online that you can force the fluid up from the lower cylinder. Pushing the air out to the brake resivoir. Nothing has worked. I can't seem to force the air out. I am stuck, the clutch pedal still gets stuck at the floor. Any special way to get the air out of the lines??? Please help. 
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09-03-2012, 08:41 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,370
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Did you replace with a new one or rebuild the clutch slave cyclinder? If you rebuilt it you might have to buy a new clutch slave. You might have the replace the clutch master as well. Some people use a power bleeder but I have never had to. Some have also put the front end of the car up on jack stands and then bleed the system.
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09-03-2012, 09:22 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: O.C. CA
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motive power bleeder. nuff said.
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09-03-2012, 09:58 AM
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That would be to raise the rear, not the front. Raising the rear helps to keep fluid to the miniscule clutch reservoir at the front of the master cyl. That only works if you continue to add fluid.
A power bleeder is said to be easier, (I have never had to use one) but may be an added expense for someone who does not constantly fiddle with their car for the sake of saying that they do.
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87 951 all stock exc. cup II's /94 968 6-spd, lowered,17in. RUF Speedlines, M030 anti- sways/ 94 968 Tip, Cup II's, otherwise stock |
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09-03-2012, 10:21 AM
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Location: O.C. CA
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since the entire hydraulic system is supposed to be flushed every 2 years, if you do your own work, a motive power bleeder is a no brainer.
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09-03-2012, 01:34 PM
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Every 2 years would not constitute constant.
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87 951 all stock exc. cup II's /94 968 6-spd, lowered,17in. RUF Speedlines, M030 anti- sways/ 94 968 Tip, Cup II's, otherwise stock |
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09-03-2012, 06:54 PM
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Location: O.C. CA
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no, but at $45 it sure makes a lot more sense than fighting it. it makes it a one man job, is a lot cleaner, and just plain works better.
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09-03-2012, 07:57 PM
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GAKFU, I did this job recently and after replacing everything except the hard line between the clutch master and slave, found that I had a clog in the hard line. Run some compressed air through there and it might solve your problem.
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09-05-2012, 09:57 AM
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Erie, PA
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+1
Clean, and easy. Used it when I replaced my, brake master, again when I did my clutch master and slave, again when I replaced my rubber brake lines, and again when I replaced my fuel lines. (had to open the brake lines in the wheel well and move them to cut the fuel lines) So in two years of ownership I have used it 4 times and it was a breeze each time. When I rebuild my brake calipers this winter, I will use it again! Quote:
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09-05-2012, 03:08 PM
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Location: Arizona
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I did this a few months ago when I replaced my clutch. I had the same problem with bleeding the clutch.
I pushed the fluid both ways. From the top by pumping the clutch pedal and having someone under the car bleed the slave cylinder and also pumping fluid up from the bleed on the slave cylinder. What I found worked for me was when I got to the point where the clutch pedal is working just a little bit, I would take the car for a short drive around the block and the clutch hydraulics would sort of self bleed the rest of the way. |
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09-06-2012, 06:38 PM
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944
