djonlan; It's not overheating, no coolant in the overflow tube. No coolant leak. Radiator is fairly new so I don't foresee any problems with it (changed by PO)

I've tried two different temp gauges and they both show about the same.

There was one time, last summer, when I was in the valley and it was 100+ outside the temp showed to go almost up to the read and the car was acting up.

But other than that it has never overheated, lost coolant or showed any signs of being too hot, other than the temp gauge going up to the last white at times. So I've left it like this for now, this winter was cold so I didn't have any issues. But want to look into it before the summer sets in.

When I installed the thermometer, I got it as far in as possible, but I wasn't able, and I tried, to get the C-clip into the grove. But the thermometer was well in there and not moving around or anything. But maybe it's not 100% correctly installed?

There's probably a test for the temperature sender somewhere.. and maybe you could try out a laser thermometer to double check it's not just an electrical problem.. corroded grounds/connections can make the temp gauge read higher too. Sounds like you may have a mechanical issue, but just to double check :)

My oil pressure warning light was coming on, simply because i inadvertently knocked the sender wire connector loose :)

thanks, found it where you said. and sorry my post was confusing. my issue is the heater blows HOT all the time, but the engine does not overheat.

checked with mightyvac and the valve closes. in the middle of something so cannot start the engine to see if heat stops with a zip tie on the valve.

traced the vacuum line and it goes to a connection on the firewall. starting to fear it is the HVAC module inside the dash.

in the process of checking this, when moving the PS reservoir to get to it, one of the hoses started leaking bad. I was planning to replace as the hoses were clearly ready to rupture.

and then when tinkering with the heater valve, slightly bumped the elec connector just above it and the connector just shattered. wire on part that shattered leads into the cam belt cover. don't know what it is yet. :mad:

You probably need the plastic clip on the heater flap linkage in the drivers footwell. One or more is probably broken. Costs about $2 apiece.

Pelican Parts - Product Information: 944-572-314-00-M100

That's what I was thinking too when I read that it was the heater going warm. It's probably the plastic clip. Get a couple for back up.

Get the metal clip that goes on top too if missing

I checked/tested the heater flap linkage in the footwell. no problems, worked perfectly. no matter what flap setting, it blow hot air out whatever vent is selected.

when I can, I will zip tie the HCV arm in the closed position and test. it responded to my creating vacuum with my mightyvac. but made me realize I need a small vacuum gauge to test the amount of vacuum the car is pulling on that hose to the HCV. really hope it is the HCV, much easier to resolve than pulling the dash to fix/replace that HVAC module.

it was the Hall senor connector that broke. I was able to start the car, so the connector wires were intact. so gently pulled the connectors apart and epoxied together the pieces I could find of the male connector that broke. but have not had time to go back to test further. got another reply that there are VW models that have this same connector. if my epoxy does not work/hold up, will pursue just replacing the connector than replace the Hall sensor.

got back to the shop. when trying to plug in the 'repaired' connector, it just broke into more pieces.

so cut it off and spliced the Hall sensor wiring and the car is running again.

so checked the HCV by zip tying it closed and the hot air stopped coming through the vents. and could not feel any vacuum on the line coming from the firewall. so guess it must be either the HVAC control in the dash or some leak in the dash.

my next question is does a failure of the HVAC control in the dash also tend to effect running the AC?

we can live with the zip tied HCV for the summer, but must have AC.

really don't want to take the time right now and rip out the dash.

thoughts?