Fuel line replacement... preference?

[ibtisam.jawad]

Time has come to replace the fuel lines that go from the left wheel well to the rail (high pressure, return) and the damper.

My main concern for the product I buy is "ease of installation" and as little work in crimping/flaring hoses as possible.

Have come up with three options, in no order of preference:
Rennbay
Lart's
BoxsterGT

Could those who have experience with this please tell me which one is the easiest to install? I have no experience with fuel lines but have done a bunch of other work on the 944 turbo.

I would humbly request that we do not use this thread to bash any of the vendors or their products. This is purely from an ease of install point of view.

Mainly I'm looking to get lines that are the least work for me to install as I'm not that comfortable playing with fuel lines

[Gawernator]

I installed the $89 (from Lindsey Racing) genuine Porsche fuel rail jumper hose, just because it's nice and I didn't want the turn around time with BoxsterGT (sorry). I have the black braided hoses from Lindsey Racing. I thought it was going to be stainless steel braid like their silver ones but it's actually a black fabric insulation. I don't think you can go wrong with any choice and the install instructions seem the same for everything to me.

[ibtisam.jawad]

Thanks Gawernator. How "easy/difficult" was the part where you use a pipe cutter near the left fender-well? Did you have to use a die grinder to get the factory crimps off of the high pressure and return lines?

[CHICKS]

I used the Rennbay kit, and the OEM jumper from Porsche. Easy install, and iirc the Rennbay and LR both come with small tubing cutters. Either way you can't go wrong, both are nice kits.

[9FF]

I think these are Lart's on my na fitted about 3 years ago and I have Rennbays on my 951. They are all pretty much the same to fit, a little measuring, cutting and flaring, etc, but if I can do it anyone can. Just take your time.



The spacer is a stock Earl's item that doesn't come with the kit.

[Grandad#3]

All the Fuel Lines from the different vendors use the same method of connecting to the fuel lines that I have seen. On a left hand drive car you have to remove the right wheel and plastic fender liner to reach the fuel lines. As said a tubing cutter is supplied to cut the fuel lines just below where they go through the fender. For personnel reasons I do not like the S/S covered lines as they are not needed and only provide a BLING factor. The cloth or nylon braided fuel lines you can at least see if there is ever a fuel leak and where it is coming from. Fire Sleeves can be installed over the lines and they come in several colors.

Cheers,
Larry

[porschetub]

Any good hose fitting company can make up the hoses for you,you can carefully cut the factory swages off to retain the factory ends ,just make sure the hose is rated properly for the pressure.
Way cheaper than genuine hoses.

[Gawernator]

Originally Posted by Grandad#3

All the Fuel Lines from the different vendors use the same method of connecting to the fuel lines that I have seen. On a left hand drive car you have to remove the right wheel and plastic fender liner to reach the fuel lines. As said a tubing cutter is supplied to cut the fuel lines just below where they go through the fender. For personnel reasons I do not like the S/S covered lines as they are not needed and only provide a BLING factor. The cloth or nylon braided fuel lines you can at least see if there is ever a fuel leak and where it is coming from. Fire Sleeves can be installed over the lines and they come in several colors.

Cheers,
Larry

Yup I have a small amount of the insulation over the black braiding, which I assume in itself is insulation over a plain rubber hose. Am happy I got that over the stainless steel! No die grinder..

[9FF]

...For personnel reasons I do not like the S/S covered lines as they are not needed and only provide a BLING factor. The cloth or nylon braided fuel lines you can at least see if there is ever a fuel leak and where it is coming from...

Agreed, I thought I'd try those s/s and they do the job but on second thoughts I wish I went with plain rubber. There is no way to see if the rubber underneath the s/s covering is begining to crack or degrade. They do offer some resistance to chaffing but those lines really don't come close to anything that would chafe the lines if routed properly.

[ibtisam.jawad]

Thanks for all the support guys. I believe Rennbay's and LR's lines come in regular rubber as opposed to SS. Looks like the route I will be going.

I'm surprised at how frequently I'm discovering hack-jobs on my 951. High pressure line developed a leak at the connection to the damper because it was put on by some sort of a clamp. P/O had replaced these but apparently not done the work very well. This from the same guy who had two broken CV bolts welded to the stub axle. Thanks to help from Pelican, at least that nightmare is over.

The way I see it, I learn more every day with this car

[ibtisam.jawad]

Ok ... so now that I know of an off-the-shelf option that will surely work ... let me try to find 99 DIY options that may not Sorry I can't help it. It's sort of become second nature coming from a science background.

I've been reading the various fuel line replacement threads: Arnnworx, Pelican, Rennlist and the various solutions employed by people. I've found the following hose in 5/16 and 3/8" inner diameter and it's rated to 225psi working pressure, -40F to 257F working temperature, rated for all the various fuel blends available today:
Barricade® Fuel Line Hose with GreenShield® Technology

So far so good. Now let me try to find 10/8mm to -6AN fittings...

I'm thinking I'll need
10mm to -6AN for the high pressure line at the end that goes to the factory metal line
8mm to -6AN for the return line at the same end

Do the same fitting sizes work on the FPR and Damper?

Let me state that I'm not looking for cost savings. Just something to try on my own. Less than $150 for an aftermarket solution that works out of the box is not bad at all.

[Gawernator]

That's more than just getting the kit with all materials and tools included

[ibtisam.jawad]

Yes, that's what I was trying to say. The kit is only less than $150 so not bad at all. Will get one of those for sure.

At the same time, will also try to assemble my own "kit" and see what fails

[Tcrate]

Another option if you want to send the old lines out, Inline Tube in Macomb, MI can duplicate for you. I have no association with them but I actually took a hanger, routed it to match the fuel line I was trying to make and they created a fuel line from that. Turned out pretty good, I just had to give them the size of the tube and fitting threads I was looking for.

[ibtisam.jawad]

So here's what I've got planned for the high pressure line:

Metal Factory 10mm Line > Earl's 165006 (3/8 Tubing to -6AN Male) > Earl's 700167 -6AN Female to 3/8" Hose Push-On Adapter > Gates' Barricade Fuel Hose > Earl's 700167 -6AN Female to 3/8" Hose Push-On Adapter > Earl's 991955 16mm X 1.50 Female to -6AN Male adapter > Fuel Damper
For those that care, total cost of above minus hose: $23.51, Probably even cheaper if I replace AN with JIC.
15 ft. 3/8" ID Gates Barricade hose: $20.00

I'm hoping I'll learn a bunch about hydraulic fittings with this DIY (as I'm completely illiterate in that sense) ... and when I fail, I will simply buy the kit

I know, I know there's a lot of DIY fuel line threads ... but I'm just using this thread to log my findings as I go along.

[flashx]

Better check those numbers again The first one (165006) shows up to me as 5 gallons of shock oil for over $250 The second set (700167) seem to be good. and the last one ( 991955) shows me to have male ends on it. My thinking is the 16mm x 1.5 should be female

[flashx]

Depending on where you look up your first number it will come up as a fitting or 5 gallons of shock oil. Kind of strange. The 165006 fitting appears to be made out of aluminum and may be made for use on aluminum tubing Might want to be careful with that one I think most of the kits are using steel fittings at that point

[ibtisam.jawad]

Thanks flashx. I used the anfittings.com website

[ibtisam.jawad]

Anyone know the thread / fitting size on the FPR for the return line? M14x1.5?