Engine Block Question

[akron]

I am pulling an engine from my 1985/2 NA Auto. There was coolant in the oil. Did oil cooler gaskets and lost oil pressure after completion, so pulling engine.
While disconnecting things , I noticed the front lifting ring was missing. Went to pull the alternator and AC compressor and found the shoulders on the block that receive the bracket mounting bolts had been broken off and mangled some. The bolts screw in enough to hold the bracket with the exception of the lower left one. It is broken off. Oh and one of the bolts holding the AC compressor to the bracket had been broken off and I'll need to clear that before reattaching the bracket.
At a minimum, I need to support the engine with a lift to remove it. I am planning on pulling it from the top.
Will I be able to reattach the bracket and the lift ring at that front top bolt and lift it? The top left bolt secured well.
Can those things be welded on?
Is that idea worthwhile?
It doesn't seem that this affected the engine while running...didn't have it running too much as I was working the oil cooler gaskets right after I bought it.

[v2rocket_aka944]

It's possible to weld them back on with the right filler rod but if you've got the engine out it might just be worthwhile to find another short block.

If you do opt to fix it I'd drill and tap those holes to the next larger size which is 7/16"...you'd just have to remember to use a 5/8 or 16mm socket/wrench on them in the future.

[nota]

you will get a better weld if you can heat the block
before/during the weld on a cast alloy part
kind of hard on a block but may be just heat the bit being welded

[akron]

Took the parts to a welding shop. They said that when they weld Audi blocks the weld has typically not held and the bead just pops off. They said they did not want to even try this- Porsche being similar. Being in Alaska with a shortage of blocks around, I drilled, tapped and JB Welded the bungs back on to the case. Pics to follow. I Know this is not standard, but what is a guy to do? You will see in another post (Rod Bearings) that the PO also had the crank ground. This engine might just cure me of the wrench turning addiction that I have!

[dgcantrell]

Man, somebody was rough on equipment...... You may get away with cleaning it all up and JB Weld the broken off portions back to the block. Then drill the holes a little deeper and tap them out and use longer bolts to mount the bracket to the block. As long as there's enough meat on the block to allow drilling the hole deeper, you may be able to make it work.

[akron]

[dgcantrell]

NICE recovery..

[sausagehacker]

Mint!

[Arizona_928]

I guess Alaska does not have a lot of good TIG guys. Hope the jb holds...

[akron]

Driving this car now! So far no oil spots, fire, or bad noises...

[v2rocket_aka944]

3/4 should be OK.
do you really need AC in Alaska?

[akron]

Good point there! No A/C needed here. Yeah, the mounting bolts go allthe way through the broken parts into the block. And I always...just roll down the windows. Probably be just fine to remove the compressor and put a different belt on it? The compressor is the part that gets tensioned for the belt. Is there a workaround for tensioning only the generator?

[IdahoDoug]

Bravo!!!!! Love the ingenuity.