Can't Remove Control Arm Bushing Liners
 

I'm trying to remove the liner things for the front control arm bushings so I can install my new Elephant Racing bushings. The new bushings came with directions for removing them and these ****ers aren't going anywhere. I've tried pounding them out, heating up the control arm then pounding on them, soaking them in penetrating oil for a few days then pounding on them, but nothing works. The directions say that I can cut a slit in them, so I tried that, but this is some tough metal. None of my metal blades can cut this stuff. Has anyone else removed these before? If so, how did you get them out?

Thanks,
Jeff

they are a real bear to remove. you really can't do it with the control arms in place, so i hope you aren't trying that.

they really have to be driven out. there are two halves to the bushings, one pressed in from each side.

I've been doing it in my vice. I'll stop by Home Depot and see if they have any diamond tipped blades for my hacksaw. Even with one of those I doubt I can cut these things. My heavy metal cutting blades have only made scratches so far...

Pic? I'm a visual learner :)

If the rubber bushings are stuck in there and the control arms are already off the car I had success with my 300zx with burning the rubber and melting it with a torch and map gas. That was the only way that I was able to remove mine.

I'll get one after work.

The rubber bushings are long gone. The metal sleeves they used to be contained in are what I'm trying to remove now.

I just used a hack saw blade i had and some time. Cut through one side and knock it out, then the other half should be eaiser to press out. It was not more work than I expected.

Can you get a small diamiter metal cutting rasp in there with a dremel and just gently cut one it down the middle on each side and gently pry it together when cut through and remove that way?

I'll pick up some fresh cutting blades at Home Depot and try again.
With a dremel I wouldn't be able to cut vertically. There isn't enough room.

Big Drill bit ?

I've never seen drill bits about an inch in diameter.

It wasn't easy, but I got them! A fresh new blade made a HUGE difference compared to the blade that had been used once or twice. I did cut a little too deep and scratched the arm itself. On one of the arms I accidentally pounded the screwdriver between the liner and the arm. Will these mistakes cause any problems, or can I just sand them smooth and press the new ones in?

Pictures of the carnage:
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14...9439c3bfed.jpghttp://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14...d1f581ac9a.jpg

These things were rusty as hell.
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14...f4057b5d4b.jpg

so, the good news is that you got them apart. the bad news is that you may not like the result. in the blue car i have those bushings that you are about to install. i am on my second set in 35k miles, and i think i am about to have to do a third. they don't last long.

additionally, i don't like how they feel on the street. every little groove and anomaly in the road is sent straight to the steering wheel, and causes tramlining to boot.

great for a race or track car, and when i was setting my car up primarily for track, that made sense. the improved turn in was useful. now that i have taken it off the track, and it is only on the street, not so cool.

i wish i had stayed rubber, and will probably buy new control arms so that i can go back to rubber.

good luck

Why buy new control arms, just refit the factory bushings back in or better still get the Elephant Racing version which is still rubber but a touch harder than stock but still have the steel liners.

I'm installing new rubber bushings from Elephant Racing. It was mentioned earlier in the thread.
Those are what I'm using after I clean up the holes.

Edit- several members on Rennlist recommend having the scratches welded. Unfortunately, I cannot find anyone in my area that can or are willing to weld these things :mad:

i like chuck's stuff, and have recommended it quite a bit. i planned to be looking into it, but as i have had a few failures of elephant racing parts over the years, as have a bunch of us, i'm just not sure i wanted to go there again. granted we all have been using the monoball stuff, and it works great on the track. in street application it has shown to be less than optimal, and not up to the beating of potholes and such.

i have not talked to chuck about this new stuff yet though. i just hadn't gotten around to it. it's on my list. i have to take a look at the rear control arm bushings too, to see how they are holding up. i have his monoball stuff there too.

on the 968, the OEM front control arm bushings are not sold separately, so you have to get the whole control arm.

the reason for the delay is that if i remove the control arms, i have to get yet another alignment. it's a pain to have to drive the hour to get there, be there for 3 hours, and then another hour back.

Anyone on here do aluminum welding? I will pay you handsomely.

Are these small cuts really that big of a deal? My new bushings have the metal sleeves. It's not like I cut all the way through. This isn't a track car so they won't see a ton of stress.

i haven't seen the new bushings, but if rubber goes up against that surface, then all you really need to do is smooth it out a bit so there is no edge to catch the rubber.

if a metal sleeve goes up against it, and is pressed in (in other words, not rotating) it is even less of an issue.

Looks like you did get carried away a little with the saw...
Shouldn't be an issue, but maybe to give you some piece of mind, clean it real well and try to fill the cut in with JB weld.
The screw driver notch shouldn't be any issue, but if you have the JB weld out, might as well put some in there too.

I'll get some pictures of the bushings tonight. They do get pressed in. I was planning on sanding the hole to remove the rust and the sharp edges left by the hacksaw/screwdriver.
It was hard to tell how deep I was cutting because the lip of the liner extends over the top of the hole. I'll try the JB Weld if I can't get them welded.

Dude, get it welded up WYIT and feel safe driving, don't use JB Weld. Cuts like that cause great stresses whether you fit steel liners or not, only drive it on the street or not. Its part of what holds the wheel on the car so $60 of welding now or they will copy this post in your obituary if that fails on the highway.

Try this, bend a sheet of card and you will see it bends uniformally, now scribe a thin line on the card and try again. That scribed line will take all the force and eventually fracture at the scribed line. It's a weak point - fix it and be safe!