Literally Stuck. Need help removing transaxle.
 

I am stuck. I am trying to remove the transaxle in my 1984 944 NA to replace the clutch. Following the instructions in the Haynes manual and on Clark's Garage, everything was going great until the step: lowering the transaxle out of the car. The problem is step 18 on Clark's says to move the transaxle rearward, but my transaxle was already close up against the spare tire well before I unbolted it. I noticed this before I started and was confused by the instructions, but figured that there must be a way to wiggle it out. But I don't see how now after trying. If I simply try to lower it straight down, it hits a lip at the bottom of the spare tire well and gets hung up. Can't wiggle it sideways to clear the spare tire well either.

So my question, what I am missing here? Thanks for any help.

Andy

Once the torque tube is disconnected from the transaxle it has no support and lowers with the transaxle. Support the torque tube with a jack or a block of wood between the torque tube and the torsion housing.

The answer to your question is here.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-924-944-968-technical-forum/533811-transmission-removal-made-easy-been-gone-awhile-thought-id-post.html

OK, I will try supporting the torque tube tonight.

But I am still confused. Is it normal for there to be very little clearance between the transmission and the spare tire well when installed? I mean like less than a 1/8"? If so, why do Haynes and Clark's say to move the transmission to the rear if it isn't possible?

I just did this. had same issue initially. as I lowered, had to tilt the trans down at the rear until it cleared the spare tire well. then could pull back to finish removal.

I was using a 2 ton floor trans jack with an articulating plate to tilt the tranny.

good luck. I am in the process of putting in the new clutch and hope by next weekend the tranny will be going back in.

If the motor mounts and transaxle mount are worn it can let the weight fall to the back pushing the whole drive line rearwards. You may want to change or do the poly fill on the transaxle mount while you have the transaxle out.

Short answer is yes, it's normal for there to be very little clearance between the back of the transmission and the spare tire well. Follow the directions as people have posted them, be patient, and BE SAFE! Do not drop it onto your face, that would hurt. A lot.

My experience has always been that you need to take it slow, move things down a little, back a little, in steps. You'll get there.

There is a round bore on the bottom of the transmission, like you could stick a 12 mm or so pin in it. It is pretty much the center of gravity. And so if you're using a floor jack to lower, good place to place it. Good luck!

Personally, I think on an NA, it's easier, faster and less back-breaking to just pull the engine out the top to do a clutch-job. On a Turbo, with all the extra exhaust-plumbing, may be slightly faster & easier to pull the trans and TT.

I remember reading something somewhere that Kevin(?) left something off after putting a 951 back together and he had the engine back out in 1.5-hrs. :)

Just want to double check something? At what point should one remove the plastic protective tube? Haynes says to slide it out of the housing after separating the transmission. But step 6 in the Porsche Workshop manual seems to do it earlier? Maybe that is what is holding me up?

I just went through this and the plastic sleeve doesn't really move much at all. It's flared at both ends and is not strong enough to hold up the transaxle.

Make double/triple sure the clamping sleeve on the drive shaft is totally out of the way. I thought I had slid it far enough back but didn't. That blasted thing held me up for a while. Once I got it completely out of the way the transaxle came right out.

Yeah, that clamping sleeve can easily be stuck part-way. Spray liberally with PB-blaster and make sure all the clamp-bolts are completely loose. Do this sleeve first before anything else because if the trans is at a slight angle, the sleeve won't slide. Use a BIG screwdriver to wedge into hole and pry that sleeve out of the way. I often use an 18" motorcycle tyre-lever

Completely remove the bolts from the clamping sleeve or you will not get the thing to move.

The black plastic sleeve can be a hangup. The shifter rod can be too, make sure it is completely out of the way. I use a transmission jack from Harbor Freight that makes it very easy to do.

both gave me momentary challenges. surprised just how far you have to push the shifter rod up into the console cavity to clear. and I pulled that sleeve to the rear and out of the transaxle. there are retaining 'bumps' on both ends you have to use a flathead screw driver or similar to get it out.

good luck.

Some guys don't bother reinstalling the plastic shifter sleeve. I always do, and regret it every time I have to pull the tranny.

Best thing you can do with the plastic tube is toss it in the trash. Reinstallation without the tube is much, much easier.

OK, finally had time to get back in the garage today. I guess I was somewhat worried for nothing. With the suggestions above and renewed determination, I just jacked it up and down a little, lifted the front end of the transaxle as suggested, then wiggled it a bit more and amazingly it cleared the spare tire well. After that I pulled the plastic tube and lowered it out of the car.

I should add that I also used a harbor freight transmission jack as mentioned in one of the replies above. It was the 450lb low lift model which I got on sale for $70. It worked just fine and was never part of my problem. The only issue with it is the strap tensioner is too big and gets in the way. I just tied the strap around the transaxle instead.

Great news,

The black plastic tube keeps dirt and bugs out of the trans axle case.

J_AZ

One additional note: be careful and take your time in removing the allen bolts from the coupler (clamping sleeve). They are grade 12.9 and take a lot of torque. I keep reading about ppl cam'ing out their head (the bolt, not their human head) and drilling or grinding the mess off. Just had someone drop off a transmission today where this is the case.

Use a good, short allen socket. I highly recommend using a Snap-on stubby 8mm socket, FAMXS8E, Socket Driver, Metric, Hex, Stubby, 8 mm. The stubby allens are, in use, much less likely to cam out, easier to control as you torque.

Actually you should treat yourself to the whole set, Set, Socket Driver, Metric, Hex, Stubby. Go ahead, you deserve it. Your spouse will just spend the money on crap you don't need, and your kids are all juvenile delinquents. Buy the tool.

Use anti-seize when reinstalling. If a fastener is lower than your knee and gets exposed to water and salt, use a quality anti-seize like Wurth CU800.