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I have a 1984 Porsche 944 NA, as of 4 days ago it is a sweet paperweight. Trying to figure out if I want to rebuild current engine or drop in an S 16v engine. How difficult would that swap be, have searched threads on here and could be me but not finding much info on this type of swap. Body is solid, new paint, tires, sway bar, shocks, interior not bad for the moment.
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Its been done on a 924S (which is the same underneath as your 84 944) and everything more or less bolts in, the trick is getting the newer ECU and wiring swapped in place, which isn't bad as long as you've got a complete donor.
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Stefan Portland, OR 1979 Porsche 924 Carrera GTS (clone-ish) 1988 Porsche 944 Turbo S (Silver Rose) |
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It's been done before....and there are a few different links, and websites, here are a couple:
I Swapped a 968 into a 924S 944S3.com Those 2 links should help you start in the right direction. There are a few questions that you have to ask yourself: 1. Do I have time for this project? 2. Do I have the mechanical skills needed for this project? 3. Do I have the funds for this project? 4. Will it be worth it in the end? You'll run into a lot of "While I'm in there" parts and it will add up in a hurry. Lots of people say you should run the Turbo or S2 transmission and torque tube, and upgrade to the Turbo brakes. These items may not be necessary if this is going to remain a street car.....if you start driving on the track, an upgrade will most likely be necessary. In the end it may cost you the same amount as an S2, but the reward will be the satisfaction of building such a car. If you want a slight upgrade, there was someone selling a complete 89' 944 8 valve N/A engine on here or Rennlist. This will bolt in much easier, but will provide you with more horsepower and torque than your original engine. It has both a higher compression and more displacement than your current engine. Best of luck....It's good to see someone wants to save an early 944 rather than part it out! |
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Thanks for the links and info, just what I needed.
Now decisions....... Decisions........ |
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: north carolina
Posts: 114
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I've done it in a 87 944. Into an early car I would be afraid to because of the different locations of the ecus and the differences in the wiring. Everything bolts right in as far as the engine goes. The easiest way is to have an entire complete s2 944. The fuel lines are different, you need the fuel injector ballast resistors, the throttle cable, the igniter, you have to make changes to the wiring harness as well. The exhaust manifold is different so your exhaust won't work. It took me about a month to get it running but it was a hoot and worth the work.
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A 951 swap has been done on an early car, the donor was a later model car and the wiring wasn't a huge issue:
924Board.org :: View topic - My narrow 951 project I've seen a S2 swapped 924S in person and everything dropped in like factory, the work in the rear to fit the later style large fuel tank and transaxle crossmember is well documented and are easily performed with a minimum of effort. Fuel lines are fuel lines, just make sure they are connected in the correct order and without leaks and that the pump is up to the task.
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Stefan Portland, OR 1979 Porsche 924 Carrera GTS (clone-ish) 1988 Porsche 944 Turbo S (Silver Rose) |
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I checked one of the links above, and the motor was pulled out through the bottom. Am I missing something? It looks simple enough to pull it out through the top like a normal engine after some things are removed.
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If you are going to all the trouble get a 3.0 liter S2 engine. It has lots of low end torque, something the 2.5 liter 944S lacks. 968 engine is even more powerful but more complex with it's Vario-Cam timing. Being a couple of hundred pounds lighter an early car with an S2 engine should be quite lively. S2 tranny gear ratios are different then 8 valve to better use the power band and is as strong as a turbo.
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Red 84 w/25,xxx miles Stone Gray 89 S2 w/90,xxx miles |
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They were originally installed through the bottom, but it's it up to you which way you want to go with it. They'll go out the top just fine.
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I was just thinking the16v s engine, really didn't want to get into swapping the tranny too. Not tracking it, just a fun car to drive around, really enjoyed it till it died. PO didn't seem like he drove it much but did do some work to it. Thinking the engine was a little neglected prior to that. I'm going to weigh my options, would really like to get it back on the road asap, as cost effectively (not cheap but not looking to dump $9g in it either) and reliably as possible.
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Thanks for being so prompt and courteous to a new member by the way!
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Where are you located?
Here are two links of engines for sale...the first one is the later 2.7l should increase the size of your smile when pressing on the loud pedal. 89' 2.7l Complete Engine 3 complete engines Both forum members that are selling these engines are well known and respected. Some people enjoy the project more than the end result. Whatever you do, please don't get to the point where it is apart and you are in over your head. It may just be easier to get another 8 valve engine and upgrade to the Rogue Tuning MAF conversion for a little more power and driveability. Keep us posted. Any pictures of the car? |
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Forgot to ask....
What happened to the engine that is in your car? |
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I am pretty sure I busted a rod, loud clacking on the way home, oil light came, on as soon as I parked it in the garage it expelled damn near all the coolant through the overflow valve. No new oil leaks or holes in the motor. No compression in 2 cylinders 60psi in one and 120psi in another. Still have to tear into it to see exactly what all happened but pretty sure at the very least a candidate for rebuild. I am just outside of Detroit. I am more of the enjoy the end result kind of person, and count the getting to that point as the necessary evil.
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Quote:
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Hello. I am doing this a similar conversion/swap. I was given an 89-944 automatic with an accident damaged right front fender and bumper. The interior, mechanics and rest of the body is perfect. But here in Japan cars with over 100,000km are tough to sell and by the time I shipped it, I would not get much. So first I looked for a turbo, but then a $800 parts car 944S2 came up on auction site here. 90-S2, 67,000km blue on cloth blue interior, no sunroof. Including transport halfway across Japan it cost me $1000. The car can`t be registered for road use. It was abandoned for 10year at a repair shop. I discovered it needed a clutch and front ball joints. Those alone plus mandatory taxes and inspections would cost well over $3500, so no wonder the owner walked away.
I removed the valve cover and poured some oil on the valve train and in the cylinders. It turned easily by hand but would not turn with the starter. Seized starter. After freeing it up and putting some fuel in, it cranked well but failed to start due to rear fuel hoses which resembled a lawn sprinkler. I have a rented parking spot outside on gravel/asphalt, a big floor jack and 4 jack stands. The only time I can work on this project is on Saturday afternoons and each month cost $100 in parking. I got the car July 17. Since then I managed to remove the 16v, remove the 8v install the 16v and remove the automatic transmission and torque tube. This weekend I will remove the manual transmission, and torque tube. Of course I am swapping the bigger brakes and lowered suspension. Pity the automatic had a sweet set of Koni fronts. Also the S2 had black undercoating on everything. I wish I could remove it to look as clean as the 8v. What I didn`t expect was the front wiring harness for headlights etc to not have a coupler. It terminates at the fuse box. So I will either have to swap the entire wiring harnesses or dissect it from the fuse box. Any suggestions? The clutch set is so expensive. I decided to do the rear main seal and pilot bearings to be safe. I also have to paint the and front fenders/wings before the September when the girlfriend moves in. Things a bachelor can do in his kitchen... https://plus.google.com/photos/106401861971491846444/albums/6049496114623474017
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I swapped the pedals on the weekend. Easier than I expected. But that brake pedal return spring was tough.
Next weekend: fuel lines, rear main seal, pilot bearing and clutch kit.
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Hi,
There is an inexpensive way to extract the pilot bearing , using plasticine and a wooden dowel sanded down to fit exactly into the bearing bore and a rubber mallet. Spray Plusgas or similar around the outside of the bearing the night before. Remember to clean out every tiny piece of plasticine prior to replacing the bearing
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1986 924S bought new. Now used for AutoX and street. Chipped, throttle cam, highflow filter in original airbox/snorkel, 14mm rear sway Hyundai Ioniq hybrid daily driver Vindicator Vulcan V8 spyder, street legal sports racing car (300hp,1400 lbs kerb weight) used for sprints on circuits, and hillclimbs |
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Whats the best way to install the torque tube bearings?
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Tags |
engine swap , rebuild help |