Many Firsts!

[mark.rehling]

Hello gents,

I just came upon a "free" '88 Porsche 944 which is also my first Porsche AND my first project car AND this is my first post!

It was originally a gift to my girlfriend who then gave it to her brother where it has been sitting and baking in the LA sun utterly neglected for the last two years. We live up in SF bay so I had a shop in LA get it running before I committed a trailer and a road trip to bring it up here. I really wish I didn't pay the shop to do anything and did everything myself but hind sight is, well you know...

I did not realize I was going to take such a liking to working on it myself, I have been having a blast the last couple of weeks fixing things and watching as she comes back to life!

So far I had the shop do the following before I picked up from LA:
- Replaced Timing Belt
- Replaced two fried relays so car would start
- Replaced Fuel Filter
- Oil Change and Filter
- Spark Plugs replaced
- Battery replaced

Then I did the following in the last couple weeks once I realized I could not afford anyone to work on the car other than me.
- Bled the brakes

- Drained old gas and added new 91 octane + Lucas

- Fixed AC - problem was found to be broken hard plastic elbow coming out from bottom on vacuum expansion chamber right next to car battery. It looks like the shop in LA broke this when replacing the battery. Hobby shop HD plastic glue fixed this and it held airtight for vacuum pressure, now temp dial works again WOOHOO!

- Cylinder #2 was dead - compression tested all four cylinders and came back 160+ on all four WHEW! car project continues! (was giving up if compression was questionable)

- Replaced Cap, Rotor, and Ignition Wire Set to try and fix cylinder #2

- Started to hook up multimeter to fuel injector #2 to troubleshoot and found cylinder #2 FI was actually unplugged - reseated plug and this brought back #2 cylinder (shop didn't catch this doh)!

- Failed smog badly so I replaced O2 sensor - this improved the idle big time

- Had a new stereo system installed!!! LOL yes I know, cart before the horse but I was already invested into car SOOOOO... , or so I convinced myself! lol

- Bought new set of Falken tires - it runs so smooth on freeway now! No more steering wheels shaking out of my hands at 50+ mph!!! Found out my GF brother had two different diameter tires on back 60, and a 65! Also had a radial on backwards! needless to say with new tires and balanced it's a new car ... SO SMOOTH!!!

- Removed all white drywall texture over spray that had baked on for two years.... tried goo gone, citrus cleaner, and clay bar and it was taking forever to remove. Found 'Graffiti remover for delicate surfaces' at Kelly Moore paints and this worked amazing! This also removed baked in dirt in vinyl door panels wonderfully when nothing else was working.

- General detailing with Mothers products

- Addressing rattles in the metal covers for the flip-up headlights.

- Trying to get driver side headlight to pop up all of the way...

- Trying to get car to pass smog - ordered a vacuum hose set, any other low hanging fruit to help get car to pass smog? It already had an aftermarket cat put on and I noticed the idle still hesitates sometimes - I could not find Wilks chip online anymore so I bought a $40 perf chip clone on ebay by Racing Pros, anyone use this one? Hopefully this will address the weak idle issue but not smog check

- Ordered ThrottleCam, Armrest cover, cup holders (PRIORITIES! , and hatch pin seats from only944

Anything else I can try to do for smog besides o2 sensor I already replaced and replacing all vacuum lines once I receive the set? I want to give it the best chance to pass for my free retest...

Thank you everyone in advance!!!

I will attach some before and after photos later.

Now the happiest broke man in the world! Hahaha

New enthusiast and Pelican Fan!
Mark Rehling

[ckelly78z]

Congrats on the free Porsche, it's a common saying around here that the most expensive Porsche is often the cheapest to buy. It will just nickel and dime you to death.

I think you'll like the throttle cam, it made my car feel a whole lot more "alive", the other thing that helped immensely was changing out the chip in my DME for a Wilks race chip. It now revs like a race car, and is much smoother with no hesitations or dead spots.

[commdiver]

Congrats on the free car I live up in Sonoma if you need any help I have 20 years experience with these cars and lots of spares......

The most common problem with these motors not running right is either electrical (ignition system) or vacuum leak that cause poor diagnosis and frustration.

When I say ignition I mean the entire DME system which is computer, engine reference & speed sender, maf, grounds, coil, plugs......etc

Your definitely on the right track doing the work yourself you will get a better understanding and enjoyment from the car. Also while you have started to get it right always follow the cleanliness rule and try to emulate the factories setup to get a good baseline and a finely running car. This is keeping everything just as the factory did in order to know what you have runs great and is reliable then layer you can hot rod!

[DannoXYZ]

Post the results of your smog-test, that'll give us an idea of what area to look at next.

Idle issue could be intake-leaks. Or defective idle-valve as well. Measure warmed-up intake-manifold vacuum. Should be around 20-25 in.Hg. Same at FPR and fuel-dampener.

Measure output-voltage of AFM at idle, should be around 0.75-0.85v. You can crack open the AFM and adjust the spring-tension to fall within that range.

[mark.rehling]

Good morning gents,

Thank you for the very helpful replies, below is a snip from my failed SMOG (sorry for low toner on smog guy's printer) a couple weeks ago BEFORE I replaced the O2 sensor, which ended up being VERY lazy or completely dead because the idle improved considerably since replacing.



I am currently running through my third tank of Chevron w/ Techron 91 octane gas + Lucas through the injectors with hopes to clean them out since car had been sitting for two + years. The SMOG guy said to make sure Lucas is all out of the system before running the actual smog re-test because it can raise the NO levels when it is still present in the fuel. I have had a couple of Porsche mechanics throw up a questionable look at this statement but I plan to burn through the Lucas before any retest just the same, couldn't hurt.

I would love to start testing some of the vacuum pressure stuff you mentioned Danno, any advice on where to buy a decent vacuum pressure gauge for a good price? I have never owned/used one, but it sounds fun. I already have a multimeter so I am good there.

The car is idleing much better now when left alone, however it still has the issue of shuddering after foot is removed from the accelerator. I can see the DME activating the injectors at 1200 RPM, which I believe is correct from reading some info here... however it does shudder and it is so annoying, it sounds ... tired? lol I guess that might describe it?

Does anyone have any clue where I might procure a Wilks Race Chip? His Powerprom site is still down... Does someone have his email or phone?

Thank you very much Danno, commdiver, and ckelly!!!!

P.S. The vacuum hose kit I ordered from Paragon should be here Friday for some weekend fun!

Mark Rehling
Redwood City, CA

[mark.rehling]

Just noticed that reading the NO (PPM) MAX values are near impossible on scanned image.... I have added them in this snip.

Thank you in advance gentlemen!
Mark

[v2rocket_aka944]

O2 sensor should help a lot but NO that high makes me think a CAT is in your future

[mytrplseven]

All things considered, I'd recommend going through and replacing all the vacuum lines with the silicone variety. You'd be surprised what you'll find as you do them. I found 2 lines and a t fitting that weren't connected on my newly acquired 951.

[mark.rehling]

Thanks guys, one more thing, I installed the racing pros chip today and it made a huge difference in how smoothly it accelerates, overall it just feels like the car has more pep!

The idle shudder still exists though, (the chip manufacturer says it only modifies beyond 3k RPM to not mess with emissions) and is most pronounced when running A/C and I take my foot off of the gas the idle sometimes goes down to 900 RPM but even at 1000 it feels a little rough, I am hoping whatever is causing the lull and shudder when foot leaves gas pedal is also what is contributing to rough idle when sitting at constant 1000rpm, and also contributing to smog problem :-)

So vacuum hoses I am replacing this weekend. Also I am going to check the AFM and manifold pressure like you guys suggested once I get a vacuum gauge.

One more thing I noticed that when I really gun the motor the A/C turns to Hot air blowing in my face. I believe this is due to overall loss of vacuum which then allows the hot/cold air valve to switch to hot??? My A/C was stuck on hot until I glued the vacuum box nozzle back on, by the car battery so I wonder does this indicate that overall I have diminished vacuum pressure and chasing down leaks could still pay off more?

Thanks guys!
Mark

[mark.rehling]

Hey guys,

I need to start testing intake manifold vacuum pressure, etc. I have never had a vacuum gauge, can anyone recommend a good one for wrenching on the 944?

Cost is always a consideration, cheap yet effective is great!

Thank you guys!
Mark

[Rasta Monsta]

I've never used one on a 2.5. If you're dying to know, why not borrow one from FLAPS?

[mark.rehling]

Please excuse my ignorance but what is FLAPS?

[jeffrsmith]

Friendly Local Auto Parts Store - somewhere like Autozone

[DannoXYZ]

Here's a simple vacuum-tester and pump (can bleed brakes too):
Harbour Freight - Brake Bleeder & Vacuum Pump kit

Search online for 25% off coupons and it's $20 even. Squirt silicone-oil into the piston to keep the O-rings soft and it's lasted me 10-years now.

The smog-check showing both HC and NOx high is a sure sign catalytic isn't working. Typically it's a crisscross function where too-high fuel-pressure from vacuum-leaks will cause low NOx. Leaning out the mixture to pass HC will typically increase NOx. There's some leeway with ignition as well, in CA, it's +/- 3-degrees, so turning down the ignition-advance via the FQS switch will lower NOx.

In your case, it's so far out of range, that you must have severe vacuum-leak AND a bad cat. Note that a lot of free-flow aftermarket cats are two-way, not 3-way. Make sure you check the specs. I've gotten good results with Magnaflow 3" universal cats.

Also there's some tricks to prepping for smog-check as well. Dump about 2-quarts denatured-alcohol into the tank. Alcohols have on-board oxygen molecules and results in lower HC levels. And run the car HARD, full-throttle for 15-30 seconds (left-foot braking to stay at civilized speeds). This heats up the cat and make sure it's operating optimally (O2-sensor as well). Then when you pull into smog-station, DO NOT TURN OFF car. Stay near it until they pull it onto the rollers so you can be sure the cat's still HOT.

[mark.rehling]

Hey guys,

Danno thanks for the recommendation but I had already ordered this pressure tester on Amazon. I hooked it up near the throttle body (i think?), I think with the supplied t section. I chose this spot because disconnecting it caused a significant change in idle compared to other vacuum line junctions I checked out.

I only saw between 16 and 17 inches HG with engine warmed up... does this mean I have a major vacuum leak somewhere? Danno you mentioned it should be between 20-25...



Thanks guys!!!
Mark Rehling
408 316-9481

[mark.rehling]

Hey all,

So I made a homemade fog machine with a guitar center fog machine and some radiator hoses, household plumbing pieces, etc to plumb it into the intake J boot.

I found fog coming out of injector #3 WOOHOO! Performed my first fuel delivery system job on Saturday. Pulled fuel rail and cleaned and back flushed injectors w/ carb cleaner with a little 9 volt battery and a homemade switch, new seals and hats, Fun Fun Fun!

Well.. no more leak in injector #3 anymore but I see something appearing to be leaking under the manifold now. I pulled the plug out on the Idle Control Valve and VOILA! No more idle dip issue anymore! So I still have a low intake vacuum @ 17 in HG and my Idle Control Valve is what was causing the idle to dip to sub 800 and momentarily shudder after tapping the gas pedal.

DAMN! Idle Control Valves with the 3 pin plug are WELL over $400!!!!

Could just cleaning out the ICV restore it to proper function? I know it's somewhat operational because when I plug it back in it also changes the idle speed, maybe the dip is being caused by some sluggishness that can be remedied by cleaning?

What do you think guys?

P.S. I also installed the throttle cam yesterday and .... BY MOSES' BEARD DOES IT HAVE SPUNK NOW!!!!!! I never knew it would make such a huge difference!!!!! SO IMPRESSED !

Thank you!!!!
Mark

[DannoXYZ]

Idle system is not adjusted properly. Throttle or idle-screw is too closed, causing idle to drop too low when you let up throttle. The DME computer takes a fraction of second to open idle valve and bump up idle speed.

You want to adjust throttle and/or idle screw so that NONE of idle air needs to be supplied by idle-valve. You need to disable idle valve, open the idle-screw on throttle body to desired RPM, re-enable idle-valve. Now system is correctly adjusted and no supplemental air is needed for idle, won't drop below this no matter what. Idle-valve is then only opened for extra air on cold-starts and when AC is on.

I've said in numerous posts, test and measure parts before considering them bad. Otherwise, blindly swapping parts just because they are part of a malfunctioning system may require to swap ALL parts before you happen to replace the actual faulty one.

Do leakdown test to see how the rings and valves are sealing.

[Rasta Monsta]

Icv can be cleaned successfully. Also, an aftermarket chip will often get rid of the shudder you're describing.

[mark.rehling]

Ok guys,

So I adjusted the idle per the procedure outlined in Clarkes Garage and unfortunately, the idle was already around 1000 with the ICV disabled via jumping the diagnostic plug. I adjusted the idle so that there was little or no audible change in the engine speed when re-enabling the ICV, but the idle dip issue still persists of course only when I connect the ICV, when I unplug it the idle dip goes away.

Is there something else I can try besides pulling the manifold so I can clean the ICV, I am doubtful that this will fix the problem...??

Any other ideas guys?

I wish I could get my hands on a Wilks chip just to try it but his site gone now :-(

THANKS GUYS,
Mark

[mark.rehling]

Can someone please recommend a good CA legal catalytic converter to for me to buy for my 1988 944 NA to get it to pass CA smog? I have never replaced a cat before so I guess the cheapest method is to order one and then have a muffler shop weld it on for you???

Thanks in advance guys!
Mark