Rod Bearing replacement and preparation PART 1

[John_AZ]

Rod Bearing replacement and preparation.

The information is primary for the NA but still useful for the turbo.

If the rod bearings are not changed in a timely manor, you could develop the "Number 2 Spun Bearing". This usually happens with oil starvation. Expect to do a complete engine removal and rebuild.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

About a month ago I replaced the rod bearings on the '87 924S with about 150K +- actual miles.

On a cool morning, I started up the car and drove a short distance, turned UP a slight incline and heard the unmistakenable light sound of a dim pounding from the engine.
Put your tongue lightly on the top of your mouth and gently blow out. Your tongue will vibrate and create the sound.

It is suggested to watch and replace the rod bearings at 125,000 miles and up on daily drivers.
I use the best oil for the engine and change the oil and filter between 3000-4000 mile intervals. Mileage varies with each owner.

Pelican had the best prices for the Standard rod bearings and oil pan gasket. Make certain you get the oil pickup tube seal as well.

EDIT: You may need an oil pan baffle insert if yours is cracked. You will find out only after the oil pan is removed. Yes, to save time you could buy one upfront and if not needed return it to the supplier (possibly a restocking fee and additional postage).

Get a tube of Permatex 270 per WSM for High Temperature, severe stress, vibration. Read all and decide the best for the oil pan baffle insert bolts. You do not want them to loosen up.

http://www.loctite.co.uk/loctite-4087.htm?nodeid=8802623619073

EDIT: You may want to order an upgraded oil pickup tube support bracket ~$50. Then have the bracket welded to your oil pickup tube. OR just have your oil pickup tube reinforced locally.

I used Permatex UltraGrey on the corners of the oil pan gasket. No LEAKS after 1000 miles and counting...

A roll of dental floss to tie the oil pan gasket to the oil pan.

A new filter and oil. Oil drain plug seal. NEW dip stick "O" ring.

The triangle oil level sender seal if your car is equipped. See lower post for more info. Thanks to thomasryan.

SPECIAL Tool- You need a pair of metric open end crowfoot wrenches to properly torque the oil pickup tube. The big nut is 36 foot lbs and the small bolt is 17 foot lbs.

To remove the tie rod end go to flaps for the tool ---and not the Pickle wrench!
Pelican sells the Official tie rod end removal tool:

Pelican Parts - European Automotive Parts and Accessories - Porsche • BMW • Mercedes • Volkswagen • Audi • Saab • Volvo • MINI

Buy a quart of power steering fluid. A good time to replace the PS reservoir if old. Check for rotting hoses under the PS reservoir.

Replace the 4 copper power steering seals when you remove the PS hoses from the steering rack.
Pelican sells the OEM seals 900.123.026.20 (D12 x 15.5) for $4.75 each OR the aftermarket (D12 x 16) for twenty-five cents each --$.25. I used the 25 cent copper seals.

You need a piece of GREEN plastigage SPG-1 to check the new rod bearings. ($2 most auto part stores)

You need new style ROD nuts if the engine has the old style. If your engine has the upgraded rod nuts-my car did--some owners will reuse the nuts. I bought new nuts.

You need a tube of engine assembly lube.

To hold up the engine you can buy a $50+ engine support at Harbor Freight or
just place a thick steel or wood bar across the engine bay and use proper tie downs.
I had a pair of 1 inch yellow tie downs from Harbor freight. The 1 inch hold up to 350 pounds each. I doubled the tie downs on each side. I used additional supports under the motor mount supports. Buy thicker tie downs if concerned.
The tie downs have a ratchet to release or tighten the straps.
NOTE: the OEM Porsche engine support point hook is right behind the AFM. Look for a metal piece with a hole in the center.

You need a set of torque wrenches 1/2" and 3/8".
You need a 1/4" torque wrench that is in inch pounds for the oil pan bolt 3 stage bolt torque. Remember 12 inch pounds equals 1 foot pound.

Buy a gallon of Acetone to clean parts.

This job will take about 4 to 6 days if you work 3 to 5 hours a day. Work slow to avoid do overs and nightmares. The next time will take only a couple of days.

I did it on my garage floor with proper jacks and jack stands.

Rod bearing replacement may also reduce your engine temp, stop strange noises, and seal leaks.

If you do not carefully mark your cross member to the frame or the steering shaft connection, you may need an alignment.
Pelican Technical Articles has a brief alignment article or others available on the web.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/home_toe_in/home_toe_in.htm

I researched many bearing replacement methods on the boards and internet.

Suggestions and comments are appreciated.

J_AZ
__________________
1988 924S 73.3K 6/2015 ...+ 1987 924S 133.7K DD

[944tothefloor]

This is great, and will be great!

[thomasryan]

I used 2"x2" sections foil duct work tape to hold the pan gasket square to the edge. it is long enough to go around the bolt heads and hold them in place...it is what I had on hand.

changed the rods preemptively at 93k...maybe 0.0007 wear difference from virgin shells.

[VOTS89]

Originally Posted by 944tothefloor

This is great, and will be great!

+1 ^

This is where I'm at right now with putting my engine back together, the timing is perfect.

Bruce

[Bukowski]

Great topic from a great user John_AZ

I'd like to hear how to decide whether to go further than the bearings based on what is observed in the engine.

[John_AZ]

Thanks for the comments.

I wanted to begin the rod bearing change listing the materials and tools needed.
A metric open end crow foot wrench for the oil pick up may not be in a basic tool kit and most may just estimate the torque like many do on the oil drain plug.

The tube of engine assembly lube for the new bearings at startup is needed and if not on hand, another trip to the auto parts store is necessary.

Cleaning the removed parts takes a few hours.

Thanks.

John

[thomasryan]

+999. You have great post...with tech info that blows the 'internet wisdom' out of the water))

Add that oil level sender seal to the list)))

I flipped mine out early due to some posts referring to cylinder wear if the clearance gets to the point that it is audible or idle oil pressure is low. Not a conspiracy theorist or paranoid, the rod kit was on sale and I wanted something to do on a rainy day. These are 250k+ motors if you treat them right.

[John_AZ]

Originally Posted by thomasryan

I used 2"x2" sections foil duct work tape to hold the pan gasket square to the edge. it is long enough to go around the bolt heads and hold them in place...it is what I had on hand.

changed the rods preemptively at 93k...maybe 0.0007 wear difference from virgin shells.

Originally Posted by thomasryan

+999. You have great post...with tech info that blows the 'internet wisdom' out of the water))

Add that oil level sender seal to the list)))

I flipped mine out early due to some posts referring to cylinder wear if the clearance gets to the point that it is audible or idle oil pressure is low. Not a conspiracy theorist or paranoid, the rod kit was on sale and I wanted something to do on a rainy day. These are 250k+ motors if you treat them right.

The foil duct tape is a good idea to use in addition to the floss. I read that a few use duct tape to hold the pan bolts up but the floss worked better for me.

Thanks and Info on the oil level sender seal (see HondaDusteR):
Please help identify parts in gasket kit!

John

[thomasryan]

...and maybe run a poll on those that have taken their pan off to find the plastic baffle wasn't cracked)) that can cause a nice delay of game)lol

[dp951]

I like the dental floss idea

[ideola]

The only thing that would make this better would be photos :-)

Great idea, nice post, looking forward to Part II

[John_AZ]

Originally Posted by ideola

The only thing that would make this better would be photos :-)

Great idea, nice post, looking forward to Part II

Hi ideola,

I know you are in the process of a big move but I could use your help.

I have a thread & Poll on the 'oil pan baffle insert' and would like to have your experience as a major parts seller. It may be useful information for the "Rod Bearing Replacement" process.

Poll: Did you have a "Cracked Oil Pan Baffle"

Have you found cracked plastic oil pan baffles? Other information?

BTW, maybe a few photos...

If anyone else has an opinion or information please post.

Thanks

John