As I mentioned before, none of the glass reseal procedures work. If your hatch wont release with the old struts, the latches and pins are misaligned. If they were properly aligned, the upward pressure from the hatch seal is sufficient to pop the hatch up the quarter of an inch necessary to release the hatch.

Maybe my hatch seal is too compressed over time but the hatch won't pop alone and I have no reason to think the pins are misaligned. With 1 finger's worth of pressure on either underside of the spoiler and it will release when switched, and of course it releases fine with new struts.

I had the same issue. My prior owner replaced the struts with new, and they delaminated the glass and frame.

The glass specialist who some Porsche shops recommended said that he had broken a couple of hatches in the past while trying to correct the frame straightness. Therefore, he wouldn't address the frame. His solution used flexible window epoxy, not 3M. He said the 3M was too thin and not what he preferred, so he used a marine product. It basically created a new bed for the glass and adapted the warped frame to the glass and kept it from changing further. It's been three months, and is fine so far.

My key lock was also really stiff and wouldn't unlock the mechanism. My old key was being torqued rotationally and developed a twist. I was afraid that I would break it off in the lock. I finally took the time to examine the function of the central key lock, and noticed that the release arms moved easily and would unlock the hatch pin receivers. But, the central lock was way too stiff to turn the cylinder.

I undid the two 10mm nuts on the locking plate, and greased the mating surfaces of all of the plates and rode there. I shot some WD40 into the lock mechanism. The key turned fine. I only snugged up the 10mm nuts just better than finger tight. I guess that I should replace them with delrin locknuts so they don't come off in the future.

After that, lo and behold, the electric release would auto-open the hatch, and the key will also open it from the rear. I like that better, as you can damp the opening velocity. As mentioned, new OEM struts almost throw the hatch open when there is no resistance.

Very good to know. Maybe you can answer a question. I assumed the key activated the same electrical release motor that the drivers compartment switch does. Is that the case or is the key supposed to be mechanical? I assumed electrical because my key turns just fine in the cylinder but nothing happens/releases.

I believe that it is mechanical, and pulls two opposing actuation rods, which cycle the diameter of the hatch pin seats.

So, actually, the electrical release is a servo to the key unit.

Try to reduce compression pressure from the key unit and i bet your key will start to work again. Unless the whole key assembly is pivoting within the body.