Rear hatch pops up after replacing old deck lid shocks
 

After replacing my old rear deck lid shocks with new shocks, the hatch closes and feels locked secure and will not pop up with me trying to lift it up with my strength, but once I start to drive it, boom up it goes. I also replaced the pin and the latch seal on the right side, the left side is okay and it still flies up. Can't figure why it keeps flying up on me.

The body latch with the "claw" fingers, has to be centered to the hatch lid.

First check to see if the rubber insert in the body latch is still there and not rotted. If rotted replace both (~$22).

With the hatch latch 2 nuts just loosened, watch where the hatch pin enters and center the latch-then tighten the nuts. Do the other side.

If you have bought brand new-never used hatch shocks, you are asking for trouble when the frame separates from the glass.

Hatch pin Seats:
http://only944.com/partscatalog/only/hatchpinseats/

GL
J_AZ

I recommend spraying some nut buster or throttle body cleaner into the jaws of the hatch pin recievers to loosen them up. Exercise the latches with the key. then, if that doesn't solve it, loosen the lock nut on the pins, extend them one turn and re-try until they stay locked. John's right, that if your upper frame is delaminating, the new shocks will likely push the spoiler end of the hatch away from the hinge end (top) of the hatch and that moves the alignment of the pins. The aluminum frame is very soft and when it starts delaminating from the glass at the top, it's easy to deform it under the pressure of the new struts when the hatch is down.

While reading as much as I can on his forum, I've come across this issue several times. Since all these cars will eventually need the shocks replaced, what's the fix so your window isn't splattered all over the highway? I imagine that is not a cheap item to replace!

My considered recommendation is to not replace your old worn out shocks, but rather keep a broomstick (paint it black if you are concerned about esthetics) and use that stick to prop up the rear hatch. Strong hatch shocks will cause delamination, and there is no repair other than to replace the entire hatch.

Maybe we should suggest that Kyle at only944.com manufacture a new, high tech "STICK" for this purpose. He's really good at supplying quality stuff for these cars. :D

I have a really kool looking hand carved walking stick...

I hate I got rid of my old shocks! I see a small 4 inch separation from my frame on the left side. I've taken the new ones off and decide to use my old putter for the time being.

I have the same problem with mostly worn struts on my 83. If it's really warm the struts will hold the hatch open but not when it's cool. A short length of 1/4" ID rubber hose on the shaft of one of the struts holds it open pretty well as long as there is no wind.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1437649483.jpg

I had the "Air Brake" issue with one of the B&B cars, a bit of Wurth HHS 2000 lube and make sure you shut the hatch with "Authority" and problem solved.

But, I'm with the other guys, I pick up a piece of aluminum round stock at my local Lowes, grab a few rubber caps, and I'm done. Cheap, easy, light and doesn't look bad.

One other reason NOT to put new shocks on, as already pointed out, the extra stress will greatly increase the chance of hatch frame/glass separation.

You know, now that I've finished recovering from my knee replacement surgery and no longer need this walking aid, I'm going to suggest this device I bought from Walmart for around $10. It's padded on both ends, the handle provides lateral stability and it's length is adjustable. Comes in various finishes, too. I was just going to take it to Goodwill.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1437660485.jpg

Has anyone done this?

Pelican Technical Article: 944 Rear Hatch Glass Repair

I've researched this repair and many others over the years and one thing I do know is that Silicone repairs NOTHING. It is only a sealer and when subjected to lateral loads and the sun, it will certainly fail. Anything short of cleaning the glass and frame surface, priming the glass and using "proper' 3m or even JB Weld is the proper way to seal these things. The frame will have to be reformed back to it's original shape (straps in the instructions should suffice) or when the hinges are reinstalled, you'll have a misalign issue and the hatch won't fit properly.

This thread has my attention. I installed new struts in my '87 924S with a remote hatch release.
Push the button and the hatch opens all the way. I thought this was great. Clearly not so.
I also threw out the old weak struts.
Can someone explain where to look for the separation created by the strong struts, or better, post a picture? Am I correct that the unwanted pressure is applied when the hatch is closed?

It usually starts along the top edge. You can really tell when you wash the car, you will be able to see water on the wrong side of the glass...

+1

Another clue is the top trim will start to show the front edge of the glass peeking out from underneath because of the deformation of the soft aluminum frame underneath. Looking across the top of the car may also show slight distortion of the otherwise straight trim piece and the gap to the top of the car will show up about 1/4 inch different.

If you are concerned about the delamination problem on the hatch glass due to the strut force, please check the link below so the original author may receive credit for his outstanding research effort:

http://www.924board.org/viewtopic.php?t=39433&sid=55e11f3371d367210c60313c 9cf0503d


Brian19600 used the Strong Arm #4761 gas strut (1987 Jeep Wrangler base model) which is within a few tenths of an inch to same length as the the original Porsche strut; Strong Arm #4278.
The #4761 has 52 lbs of force versus the #4278 (Porsche spec) has 69 lbs. of force.

I have tried this and it works well. In fact I just ordered another pair.
You can search on the manufacturer and part # to find them for sale.

It puts less stress on the glass and will still lift and hold the hatch. Win-win!

I had the same issue after replacing gas springs and resealing the rear glass. Not a good feeling to hit a bump and have your hatch fly open! I tried all of the latch adjusting tricks with no luck. Eventually I took the latches apart and found that the arms that lock the hatch pins had developed a rounded edge. I built the edge back up by welding and grinding. After re-assembly and adjusting I have not had any issue with the hatch opening on its own. BTW - the latches are easy to disassemble - you just have to drill the rivets out.

Wish I had seen this thread 5 days ago as I just ordered a set of struts. My real issue with the worn out struts was the lack of the hatch popping up when the interior release was pressed. For some reason my hatch will not unlock with the key/lock, so short of the electrical release working I can not open the hatch single handedly without new struts. With the new struts it pops right up with the interior release, now I worry about hatch delam but I recall a few DIY to reseal the glass.