15,000 mile checkup

[Scootin159]

I've been told that it's a good idea to have the timing/balance shaft belts checked @ 15,000 (and replaced @ 30,000). I just have a few questions....what else should I have the mechanic do while he's doing this (or should I even go to a mechanic, or is this something I can do myself?).

If I go to a mechanic to have him do it about what should it cost?

If I were to do it myself what would it involve? Just inspecting the belts for correct tension (how would I do that), and looking for any cracks/chunks missing/faulty rollers/etc. ?

$$$ is really short, so I would rather do it myself...but I would only have 1 day to do it (full day though).

[Britwrench]

If you are short of $$$$ and time you need to buy a Honda.
These cars do not repond well to budget repairs.

A 15k service includes, oil, filter, air filter, fuel filter, spark plugs, dist cap, rotor arm. Brake fluid and coolant every two years, trans fluid every 30K. Timing belt and balance belt every 30K, we change the ac and power steering belt at that time too.
DME (fuel pump) relay every five years.

You will probably find that at least the belt tensioner rollers need changing and there is a good chance that the front engine seals maybe leaking too. Unless you know the car and have up to date records there is no way of accurately estimating costs. I have stopped doing service estimates unless we have worked on the car for a year or so.

[Scootin159]

Originally posted by Britwrench
If you are short of $$$$ and time you need to buy a Honda.
These cars do not repond well to budget repairs.

A 15k service includes, oil, filter, air filter, fuel filter, spark plugs, dist cap, rotor arm. Brake fluid and coolant every two years, trans fluid every 30K. Timing belt and balance belt every 30K, we change the ac and power steering belt at that time too.
DME (fuel pump) relay every five years.

You will probably find that at least the belt tensioner rollers need changing and there is a good chance that the front engine seals maybe leaking too. Unless you know the car and have up to date records there is no way of accurately estimating costs. I have stopped doing service estimates unless we have worked on the car for a year or so.

Alright, those all sound like good things to do...especially since I just bought the car & don't know EVERYTHING aobut it's past (although I do have reciepts for a lot being done 15,000 miles ago (seemed like a basic 30k mile service - they did all of those belts then)).

Could you possibly give an estimate as to what it would cost to just have that done (assuming nothing else came up in the mean time). Everything you listed there I could do myself (except fuel filter & brake fluid (those are two systems I'd rather not play with)).

[Britwrench]

The 15k without replacing the belts is around $400-500 which includes brake fluid and coolant change. It would including checking and adjusting the belts.

If you can do all the other stuff there's no reason that you couldn't change the brake fluid and fuel filter.

When you change the brake fluid it's worth removing and cleaning the fluid reservoir, fit new grommets to seal it onto the master cylinder and don't forget to change the clutch fluid too.

The fuel filter is easy, but you do need proper flare nut wrenches.

[divezic]

Don't overlook the coolant change. These radiators will clog up and you can't unclog them: aluminum radiators can't be caustic dipped or ultrasounded.

OBTW...Britwrench. Are you a member of PCA PNWR? I'm probably heading out that way in 1 1/2 years.

[Scootin159]

Alright, I think I'll be doing myself:

Air Filter, Oil Filter
Oil Change
Coolant change (I'm pretty sure if I do a search on here I can find a very detailed how-to)
Brake Fluid/Cluth Fluid change (I'd have to look up on how to do this one as well)
Spark Plugs (Those are easy....but I need to get a torque wrench....but I should have one anyways).

I'll have to go to the mechanic for:

Inspecting the timing/balance shaft belts (This should be real cheep, and I think having a mechanic do this would be worthwhile)

I'm just wondering though, isn't 15k kinda quick to replace the distributor/rotor arm? Same with the fuel filter. I know that you guys always preach sticking with the service schedule, but I wouldn't think that those parts failing would ever cause harm to other parts of the car. I'm sure that if I wanted 100% performance replacing them might be worthwhile, but I just know that they replaced all of that one year ago (@90,000 - probably the most driven Porsche out there, 15k/year) & it seems awfully quick for me to be doing it again.

I'd do the fuel filter...but I'm just kinda intimidated about working with fuel lines. I've had two friends in the last 3 years nearly kill themselves doing that. Don't know what they did wrong, but one severly burned himself and the other one burned down his entire house. Is a change here really nessesary...does it get filled up that fast (it was just changed last year like I said earlier). If it's that critical, I could just have the mechanic do it. Shouldn't be that bad if I just have to wait till spring to do it.

[Britwrench]

We normally replace the cap and rotor arm during the 15k, obviously if it's in good condition and will run to the 30K service we would leave it. However what usually happens is the car doesn't have the 30k and then it stops. The ignition end connectors onto the cap often corrode and cause problems.
So removing the wires from the caps and checking them at 15k is a good idea.
Replacing the fuel filter is preventative mainentance.

Anyone who causes a gas fire by working on a fuel filter should not be working on cars under any cicumstances. You only have to check for leaks after installation and work to normal safety standards..how difficult is that???

[Scootin159]

Originally posted by Britwrench
Anyone who causes a gas fire by working on a fuel filter should not be working on cars under any cicumstances. You only have to check for leaks after installation and work to normal safety standards..how difficult is that???

My understanding is that they were working on HOT cars at the time and it was the heat of the engine/exhaust that ignited the fuel.

Also just found out that the last 30k service was done @ 95k miles, not 90k miles....which means I have until sometime this spring to pay for this...which means I can start saving now & do it right when it comes time.

Thanks for all your help.

[AFJuvat]

Thou shalt not work on fuel lines when the car is hot.

Sorry, that kind of falls under the "DUH" category.

Then again todwic has been known to change them while smoking........

AFJuvat

[kgain968]

I was interested in the comment about changing the clutch fluid as well. This sparked my curiosity, I checked my owners manual for info on this under "filling capacities" and there was nothing memtioned? Does it run from its own reservoir, and how do you change it, what fluid? Thanks.

[Britwrench]

On LHD cars the clutch system uses the brake fluid reservoir and on RHD cars there is a seperate reservoir.
You need some sort of pressure or vacuum bleeder to do this.