968, First 3 Questions

Westy · 09-04-2015, 04:07 PM

#1 What antifreeze, if it's something special? Otherwise DISREGARD, and I don't get charged for a question.

#2 What oil and filter, if it's something special? Same as above.

#3 This is a good one. Car has new motors for Cab top. Do I hook them up and use them, obviously risking a damaged bow that I probably can't replace, or just stay in the good old fashioned manual mode?

thomasryan · 09-04-2015, 05:20 PM

Search unicorn blood))

Penetafrost NF. This is a good read. perdosgarage

Most are brad pen or valvoline users. The general consensus is using oils with higher zinc levels.

An oil filter with a drain back valve. A OC-142 is the Mahle part number for OEM.

Stay in manual mode until you can spend some time with it. top manual

Westy · 09-04-2015, 05:39 PM

Thanx Thomas. Pedro KNOWS antifreeze!

Always been a synthetic lover, especially Mobil 1. What weight is recommended? Brad Penn???? Amazes me how much someone can get for oil. I mean, this ain't no Mezger tt!

I started reading the roof manual. Think I'll put that off for another day!!

steveo12345 · 09-04-2015, 05:39 PM

Yep. Keep the top in manual mode. It really isn't worth the risk. The dumb azz that I hired to replace my top managed to break both bows. What a nightmare that was.

thomasryan · 09-04-2015, 05:52 PM

You may need to go to a diesel formulation to get the right zinc levels using Mobil 1.

the oil list

Check those cam pads and cam chain teeth.

Westy · 09-04-2015, 06:01 PM

I have time to figure this out. I run Rotella T-6 in my offroad vehicle, and it's not even on the list. I got some research to do!

thomasryan · 09-04-2015, 06:09 PM

Read the thread. Less can be more in internet wisdom.

Rotella may fill the bill. Bob the oil guy website is also informative. Tighter weight numbers and other information. Depends on your climate and how frequently you will be driving it.

Kinda like voting....close the curtain and push the button.

ideola · ideola's Garage

Brad Penn 20W50. Period, end of story. Just do it.

Westy · 09-04-2015, 07:32 PM

I will NEVER pay 9-10 bucks for a quart of oil. Never I say!!!!

ideola · ideola's Garage

Case of 12 for $69 (+shipping, of course). PM me if interested.

Westy · 09-04-2015, 07:40 PM

That sounds a little better.

Westy · 09-04-2015, 07:51 PM

Found it on Amazon. 78 bucks for a case, free shipping. Hmmmmmmmmm. Oil filter slightly under 10, free shipping. I might just think about this.

Jfrahm · 09-05-2015, 04:50 AM

Oil should be determined by where you live, how you intend to use the car, and how often you plan to change it. For most people it is not important as long as you follow the directives. Synthetic offers no benefit for most drivers other than cold weather starts, maybe extended drains if that is your thing. I use synthetic mostly but my truck gets whatever and I can't tell the difference. Turbo cars, race cars, different story of course.

Coolant, unless you get some weird stuff, is not as important as the water you mix it with and the resulting ph. And you gotta bleed it properly. And change it or at least check the ph regularly.

I have used a bunch of Purolator and Mahle filters, they seem fine. No problems.

Otherwise I do not believe in the airbox mod and do not personally like K&N filters, I have seen them pass too much grit.

-Joel.

thomasryan · 09-05-2015, 06:04 AM

check those chain pads. Jason has them at paragon on the isle next to the unicorn blood and cider vinegar.

Rasta Monsta · Rasta Monsta's Garage

IMO, there's no need for 20w50 in a 3.0. More power, better mileage and plenty of protection with LiquiMoly 5w40 ($38 for 5l jug on Amazon).

Agree with the NF. . .great schtuff.

Also, don't forget to flush brake/clutch, change power steering fluid and filter, as well as transaxle oil.

flash968 · 09-05-2015, 07:09 AM

antifreeze - absolutely must be phosphate free. use only distilled or deionized water. never use tap water.

oil - any good synthetic with a high zddp content. do not use dino oil. it is hard on the variocam pads, as well as the tappets. viscosity to be determined by temperature of climate and running condition. i am in a very warm climate, and run the engine hard. i use 10-40 amsoil.

oil filter - the best one is the canton unit, but it's pricey (a lot better on the mess though. after that, a k&n is very good. the OEM oil filters are "ok" as long as you change them regularly.

cab top - the big bolts on the armatures are single use. you will have to replace those to re-engage the top motors.

Westy · 09-05-2015, 07:28 AM

Wasn't trying to start another oil thread as I've seen those get mighty ugly. In the winter time it's cold here, but not Montana cold. In the summer it's hot, but not North Texas hot. The in between times life is good. I've used a lot of 10-40 and 20-50 in the past in different cars. My911 gets 20-50, but it's air cooled sooooooooooooo. I like sythetics and even semi synthetics, and I've read the links that have been posted. I will never track this car (obviously) and would only drive it harder than normal when the urge strikes. Like that twisty with a long straight and then a little braking at the end. I'm pretty much a cruiser at this point in my life, and that's why I bought the comfort machine. I do, however, put the best and appropriate fluids in all of my motors.

The top will most likely stay manual. I'll learn the correct procedure on how to bleed the cooling system, I'll check the antifreeze as soon as the car is delivered, and most likely change out the brake fluid which has probably been in there for many years. I'll also get a book/manual for this car and add it to my ever-growing collection. Thanx for the input, guys.

Westy · 09-05-2015, 08:26 AM

Question #3 1/2 . Does this car have the same DME issue that plagues the 944? If so, where do I pick one up so I can keep it in the glovebox?

Westy · 09-05-2015, 08:32 PM

Question 4.2. I've never (believe it or not) owned a Cab. This one has the Hartz top. Is there a conditioner/treatment recommended for the top and the cover? While we're at it, what about the plastic window? I use Lexol protectant for my Targa top, but that's a different application.

flash968 · 09-06-2015, 05:29 AM

the DME relay is a problem with the 968 as well. most of us keep one around.

gentle soap on the top. keeping it clean goes a long way toward preserving it. try not to scrub too hard on the stitching though, as that is where it starts to come apart first.

rear window can be kept clean with NOVUS plastic cleaner, available at your local plastics shop. they make 3 grades, 1 to 3, with 1 being the least aggressive. normal maintenance is done with a rag, but apply with a buffer for really bad windows. take care not to get it on the canvas though.