Alternatives considered

Gordon Rankin · 08-30-2015, 12:37 AM

Ok, so I am going to run H-4s, a newer Alpine system and a few other power drains. Which is the best avenue???.. Refurb alternator with wattage boost OR just put in a new voltage regulator set at 14.4 volts?

DannoXYZ · 08-31-2015, 12:39 AM

Well, what kind of continuous power-draw will you be drawing maximum? Add up all the amps of your bulbs, stereo and other accessories. That number will dictate the next step.

In either case, you'll want clean all your battery-cable contacts and grounds. Add a supplemental ground at the front of engine. Also make a relay harness for your lights that takes power directly from alternator output lug.

ideola · ideola's Garage

+1^ minimum requirements.

You might also consider installing your own auxiliary fuse block with modern blade fuses.

I used this diagram as a guideline. I don't recall now what gauge wire I used, but it was fairly heavy coming from the battery. I used a 50A inline fuse and sized the fuses in my fuse block accordingly. I didn't feel it was necessary to use a master ground block.

v2rocket_aka944 · 08-31-2015, 05:42 AM

I recently reinstalled my headlight harness and holy cow is it a lot brighter than stock wiring.
I remembered that it worked well but damn.

Now the stock headlight wiring/switch carries minimal current, which activates a relay and power comes from a big fat f***in wire from my alternator instead of little wires from the battery.

BoulderGeek · 08-31-2015, 10:46 AM

Does this setup only run the lights when the engine is running, then?

ideola · ideola's Garage

If you're referring to my diagram, I wouldn't use it for lights necessarily, but rather for any extra electrical components you add that should be powered with ignition on. For me, that included things like aftermarket head unit, amp, powered sub, digital boost gauge, digital AFR, fog lights, etc. I would use the headlight kit that v2rocket referenced to keep stock headlight functionality.

v2rocket_aka944 · 08-31-2015, 12:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BoulderGeek

Does this setup only run the lights when the engine is running, then?

if you're referring to my post, no the lights still work with the engine off.
the headlight power wire on the back of the alternator is on the same alternator + post as the battery/starter charging wire so the power still flows, since its basically one conductor path

i made mine, but rennbay makes a nice setup for a good price.
http://rennbay.com/944-Headlight-Relay-Harness.html

BoulderGeek · 09-01-2015, 08:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by v2rocket_aka944

if you're referring to my post, no the lights still work with the engine off.
the headlight power wire on the back of the alternator is on the same alternator + post as the battery/starter charging wire so the power still flows, since its basically one conductor path

Cool, thanks for that confirmation. I have the plugs and parts to make my own, just haven't yet.

Gordon Rankin · 09-23-2015, 01:22 AM

Ok... I have the 120 amp alternator. Now, first question as I have NOT installed it yet.. Do I need to upgrade to another battery? If so, which one

v2rocket_aka944 · 09-23-2015, 04:57 AM

The battery you have should be fine.
Remember, the alternator only puts out enough power to top-off the battery based on electrical load...you've just raised the ceiling of how much load there can be.

I would run the headlights off the alternator, not sure about the stereo though - the battery acts as a sort of "damper" on electrical fluctuations, don't know how sensitive your stereo is.