Quick Tip: don't forget to check the clutch pedal free-play

[p-talk]

I re-adjusted mine today, and my shifting is back to normal (i.e smooth). It had started to shift hard, and it took me awhile to figure out why. It had been two years since I adjusted it. Haynes says 3mm is good.

[porschetub]

Originally Posted by p-talk

I re-adjusted mine today, and my shifting is back to normal (i.e smooth). It had started to shift hard, and it took me awhile to figure out why. It had been two years since I adjusted it. Haynes says 3mm is good.

Never been a fan of the Haynes manual,missing a lot of info and not very accurate.
I have Haynes manuals for my other cars and just seem heaps better than this one
Personally I run more than that ,3mm isn't much really ,can anyone else comment?

[mikepellegrini]

I'm not sure where Haynes gets the 3 mm.

The idea is to get a small amount of slack (.5mm) between the rod and where it pushes on the piston in the master cylinder.

From the Porsche Shop manual:

[massive]

Originally Posted by mikepellegrini

I'm not sure where Haynes gets the 3 mm.

The idea is to get a small amount of slack (.5mm) between the rod and where it pushes on the piston in the master cylinder.

From the Porsche Shop manual:

When you say slack do you mean the pedal should be floppy or slack as in when you feel the resistance on the pedal increase as you push down. My pedal isn't floppy but you can definitely feel the resistance increase after you push it down about an inch. Anyone know if this correct?

Thanks

[p-talk]

Exactly - that Porsche shop manual page also says 3mm at the pedal.

Originally Posted by mikepellegrini

I'm not sure where Haynes gets the 3 mm.

The idea is to get a small amount of slack (.5mm) between the rod and where it pushes on the piston in the master cylinder.

From the Porsche Shop manual:

[Cocacolakidd]

Someone told me once that if you roll up the Haynes Manual one could use it for a wheel chock - doesn't work their either.

[djnolan]

Think of it as pedal slack you can feel with your big toe. An inch is excessive but 1/8" to 1/4" is about right when warmed up. If there is no slack when the car is warmed up then the clutch might slip and wear the clutch disk.

You do not want to have too little or no play play here because you will burn out your clutch.

[Rasta Monsta]

Also, this is not something that should need frequent adjustment. If it does, there is a problem with your hydraulics.

[p-talk]

True. I had replaced both the master and slave cylinder when I last checked it. Had forgotten to check it since - should have checked it at around 3-6 months after replacement.

Originally Posted by Rasta Monsta

Also, this is not something that should need frequent adjustment. If it does, there is a problem with your hydraulics.

[porschetub]

Originally Posted by Cocacolakidd

Someone told me once that if you roll up the Haynes Manual one could use it for a wheel chock - doesn't work their either.

Well said, have 2 other Haynes manuals and they are very good ,what about all the "visit your nearest dealer" BS,you don't buy a manual to read that .
So whats the consensus on the freeplay??
Mines around 6mm @ the pedal and shifts fine on a clutch with 2mm left on the plate and good rubber centre,works for me.

[massive]

Here's a video of the clutch pedal on my 944. As you can see there's no pedal wobble or what I would call slack. However watch my hand press the pedal down and notice I have to press it about 1-2cm's before I feel any real resistance. Just wanted to know if this is normal?

[sempaipaul]

Originally Posted by massive

Here's a video of the clutch pedal on my 944. As you can see there's no pedal wobble or what I would call slack. However watch my hand press the pedal down and notice I have to press it about 1-2cm's before I feel any real resistance. Just wanted to know if this is normal?

I have the same thing. Also curious if this is normal?

Thanks
Paul

[peteb]

Watch the slave cylinder after adjusting clutch pedal free play. You can get leaks because the slave will be moving in a new range of motion and its piston may run up against a rusty cylinder wall. Kind of the same thing that happens when the clutch is replaced.

I'd adjust the free play if it too large and that was causing shifting troubles. I just wouldn't go off on a long trip without making sure the slave will hold. Or just replace the slave.

Peter

[Volhv]

I just took a look at mine, and tried adjusting. A bit difficult to feel the exact point of cylinder engagement because the pedal is spring loaded. I'll pop the pin out that connects the master to the pedal, that way the spring force of the pedal will be taken out of the equation.