Attempt number 3 to..

[dgcantrell]

get the 88 S going for good this evening. Replaced all the front seals except the cam seal (because it's not leaking and I didn't feel like fighting that cam bolt, I'll replace it later). The crank seal was leaking pretty steadily on the last run after getting the oil cooler and OPRV issues resolved.

Drained the oil again, changed the filter. Washed out as much foamy oil residue as possible in the pan by pouring a gallon or so of some old gas (drained from the tank a while back) and let it set a day or so. Ran some Castrol Super Clean through the coolant system to clean out more of the oily residue in it too. Filled it up with water and let it set for an hour or so. Then flushed it all back out with the waterhose via the coolant pipe over the exhaust. I'm going to run straight water in it again this time. I'm sure I'll probably have to change the oil one more time to get every trace of the water/oil mix out.

Anyway, I have one concern. When installing the crank seal, I opted to put a thin coat of RTV on the rear outside edge of the seal before slipping it on the crank. I'd thoroughly cleaned the inside surface of the recess in the oil pump housing with brake clean as to eliminate any oil residue. I also inspected the recess and found no scratches to indicate any damage to the surface that may cause a leak later. (I had used the screw method to remove the old seal) Then I had something happen that kind of concerns me...

First, some background... I've rebuilt many an engine in my day and have never had an issue with RTV causing any issues with leakage in the manner I've used it. Most seals like this are meant to be installed dry on the block contact area but I have used it on seals that even say that no sealant is needed. I like to use a thin coat on them as to get the RTV into the area between the rubber and metal just in case there are some small scratches that may leak later on. Plus the RTV is on the inside between the oil and the seal for additional sealing performance..

Back to the "concern". I went to push the seal into the recess in the oil pump housing to get it started before tapping it in with the short piece of PVC pipe (1-1/2") that works perfectly to install the seals for this and the balance shafts. Well I pushed, with moderate pressure, the RTV coated seal into the recess and it started in very nicely. Too nicely. I was able to push the seal all the way in without having to tap it with a hammer and PVC driver. It didn't feel loose and a little RTV squeezed out the front and I just went ahead and smoothed it over with the ol' finger. I've never had one go all the way in like that without at least having to tap it home.

Anyway, I'm hoping that the RTV served as a lube of sorts which allowed this to happen. Of course, letting the RTV setup before attempting to fire the engine was in order as I probably could have had it ready to fire an hour or so later. I'm going to get fire it up this evening and see if the leaking is fixed and the oil is cleaner. If the bastard leaks, I'll be tearing the stupid thing apart again and JB Welding that damn seal in...

[Rasta Monsta]

I can also push 2.5 crank seals (at least of the Victor R variety) in with my fingers. Coincidentally, I also use ultra grey permatex on the outer surface. I think you'll be fine.

I'm sure you're aware, but don't forget the mammoth torque required on that crank bolt.

[v2rocket_aka944]

I put a light coat of motor oil on the edges of all seals and they go in by hand pressure only.
About 2 weeks ago I discovered my front cam seal was leaking, but I installed it over 10 years ago so I'm ok with it.

[dgcantrell]

Shhew..... Good.. I'm relieved to hear that. This is the first front seal I've had to do on a 944. I usually use the black or dark grey Permatex RTV. Yeah, I think it's about 250lb on that bolt. I just tighten the DS out of it with a 1/2 breaker bar with an 18" cheater pipe. I always lube the contact surfaces with the spinning item with a little red hightemp grease. No risk of it dripping down and messing up the RTV sealing..

I'm pretty sure I'm probably going to have to pull this engine (a project of another day) and check the rod and main bearings because of the oil water mixing. I'm certain that it was mixing before I bought the car and PO didn't catch it. I noticed a little scoring on the balance shaft bearing on the front edge toward the sealing collar. I hit it with a little 800grit (wet sanding) to smooth it over a bit. Didn't see any noticeable scoring on the balance shalf though.

I just want to get this thing running under it's own power for the time being. Clean up the interior and get it painted again (clearcoat is crap on it now). I'll probably pull the engine and powdercoat the intake and valve cover while I check those rods and mains. The head was rebuilt about 5 or 6 years ago by the PO so it should be fine. Other than the Smurf Snot he used on the head to seal things, it's in pretty good shape for 250K miles.

[dgcantrell]

V2, good info. I didn't not know those balance shaft seals would go in like that too. I didn't use anything on mine last night and did have to tap them in. Next time I'll be using RTV. I'm not a fan of using oil or grease on that side of the seal. It always ends up leaking on me. As if the oil or grease will provide a future path for any leaks.

[v2rocket_aka944]

Crank bolt is 155 (or 157) lbft.
Don't overdo it...and don't lube the threads.

[dgcantrell]

Crap. I was thinking of the Audi 5000 engine I'm rebuilding. I have the torque specs written down on a card in the car. I'm going to torque everything this evening before commencing firing procedure.

[pfarah]

Here's the service manual page and it is 155 ft/lbs:

[dgcantrell]

Yeah. I have all the Factory Manuals. I jotted down all the torque settings on the bolts on the front of the engine on a 3X5 card and stuck them in the car so they'd be handy.

Unfortunately, I briefly forgot this morning while typing initial post that today is my 20th Wedding Anniversary.. So no 944'n got done today.. LOL

Maybe tomorrow....

[dgcantrell]

Woo HOO! After a slight delay, I finally got back on the project over the past few days. Fresh oil and filter. Fillled the coolant system with plain water for yet another flush. Got the starter back on it that I broke the solenoid trying to loosen the wires this evening. Put the battery on charge and removed the spark plugs for an initial spin over to prime the oil pressure. The needle jumped to 1bar after about three 5 second spinning sessions. Put the plugs back in and connected the wires.. Crossed my fingers and hit the ignition.

She sprang to life immediately. MUCH quieter than my 87 NA with the hole in the muffler. LOL. I really can barely hear the thing run it's so quiet. Purrs like a happy kitten. I let it got hot and shut it off. Cooling fans seemed to be functioning normally as it did all the same things as my other NA. Let it cool off and bled the coolant and refilled the tank to the top. Oil is clean as whistle this time too. No evidence of water/oil mix so I think I got the oil system flushed this time. I'll run it a while and change it again though. The coolant system will be the harder to get cleaned up. I've already ran a gallon of Castol Super Clean and about 40 gallons of water through it with the water hose. I'm still seeing little white floaters in the reservoir...

Fired it back up and took it for a quick 2 mile drive down the old road that used to be the main drag into town about 70 some years ago. Drove smoothly no real issues. Will need an alignment as I think the toe is out just a fuzz. Could just be the old tires on it too.

Now that the major mechanicals are out of the way. The busy work of getting all the other little details and items fixed up to make it road worthy and presentable shall begin shortly. Pics to follow.

[GostRidr]

Awesome job DG! Can't wait for the pics and stories of driving!!!

[dgcantrell]

Just one pic while I was letting it warm up.. The air bag is out of the steering wheel. That is what's causing the "!" light to be on..



Not too crazy about the gauge faces though. Seriously thinking of pulling them off. The odometer isn't working either. And the illumination light reflectors need refurbished. I guess a new odometer gear and a reflector refurb kit is in order.