how to use Lisle tool #56500?

goingboeing737 · 12-27-2002, 02:04 PM

Looks pretty simple. Probably why I can't figure it out. I insert the small blades into the block, but it dosen't seem to depress the catch on the wire/spade terminal. I take it that I insert it on the side where the switch plugs in, not on the side where the wires goes in, correct.

Any help appreciated as always

SoCal Driver · SoCal Driver's Garage

Lisle tool is for the round pins such as are inside the mirrors or the under hood wire harness connectors. Spade tool I had to make from a small flat blade screw driver.

I actually prefer the steel bush elements from a street sweeper. Just walk up and down a curbed street and you will usually see one or two per block.

goingboeing737 · 12-27-2002, 04:56 PM

The one I got # 56500 has six different tools on it. Two of them are the "spade" type, 1 large & 1 small. The other 4 are for the round type.

Having not seen (or being able to see) what the terminal on the end of the wire looks like I am in the dark as to what I am supposed to do. I have an idea of the latch/catch setup, just not sure which way it faces or which way/side needs to pushed to release it. It is basicly 2 small flat blades,(kinda like a pair of strong tweezers, so what did ya do once you inserted the blade into the block?

Also, why is there a terminal block? Couldn't you just plug wires right onto back of switch? Something internal in the terminal block?

Got some 18 Ga wire and heat shrink tubing. Try and get into this tomorrow.

SoCal Driver · SoCal Driver's Garage

A terminal block allows pre assembly of a wire loom. Also ensures that the wires are connected to the proper terminals on the device. Mostly done for assembly reasons not necessarily for later repair. Although it helps.

Your situation of burned wires is not a design consideration thus the repair process, while fairly straight forward, is not one that the factory manuals give directions on.

I would use un-insulated pre-tined butt splices and crimp and solder new wire sections into the loom. I would slip shrink tubing over the wires BEFORE I soldered them together then slip the tubing over the COOL solder joint and shrink.

I'm still concerned that you haven't located the reason these wires over heated -- shorted out.

I'll have to check the garage for the spade type of connectors. Think I might have some off of the 86 I parted out.

goingboeing737 · 12-27-2002, 09:38 PM

I'm pretty sure this happened with the PO and he never repaired it. I would have smelled this amount of wire!!! Plus some of the exposed sections have turned green with corrosion.

I think the intermittent headlights was as you suspected, a loose/bad ground. I re-did both of the ones by the headlights, both had a little grease/corrosion. I have had the headlights on for up to 30 minutes in the garage without them going out since the repair.

I'm still not sure about this tail light problem though. Right before I did all of the ground cleaning, I was comming home, headlights went out, and instead of holding in the high beam switch as I had in the past, I turned the headlights off and on real quick. It was right after this when I noticed the tail lights were out.

I have never seen wire seperate like this. I'll try and shoot a pic of it tomorrow. The wire is completely removed from the plastic insulation(red/grey) both pieces are still there, plastic insulation running right next to bare wire for about 5 inches. Then right at the terminal block that wire (red/grey) is kinda melted.

Very strange...

Do you think I should hold off and try and find at least that part of a wiring harness? I was thinking if I had the terminal block with about 6 or 7 inches of wire left on it (ie pigtail) it would be a lot easier to do this.